ok as most of you know, my car has bad bad bad sunspots and i have decided to get rid of them before i do anything else to my car, now i took it to a paint shop and they want about 1500.00 to do the same color, now i feel that i have enough skill to paint the car my self.
i know the basics
sand
sand
primer
(sand again? o.O)
paint
wet sand
clear coat
i need specifics such as what type of paint, what grit sand paper, how do you wet sand *never done it* i have a gun, should i spray primer and clear from that gun or just rattle can it, im not going after show winning quality, but im tired of sun spots and want to get rid of them untill i can take her up to a shop and have a pro paint job done
any help would be amazing!
now pix time not the worst looking ones ill up load thoes when i get home
also what color should i paint her? x.x
oops double post because im a noob
Spots are the least of your worries! Get rid of the wing lol
But lets put it this way. You do not know the basics you may think you know some of the stuff but your process is off...............
---
i know the basics
sand
sand
primer
(sand again? o.O)
paint
wet sand
clear coat
---
WRONG^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Step 1. Identifying high spots and low spots
Step 2. Body work. (dont tell me there isn't any. I am like 99.999999% sure that you have imperfections in the body.
Step 3. Sand the car down using LONG sanding blocks to level the cars surface. I normally use 180. 120 can be used as well.
Step 4. Prime. I prefer k36. (I am used to it) I have used k38 and it does sand better but I just have always used k36 since I am familiar with it and it costs less.
Step 5. Wet sand. I like to knock it down with 320 dry (keep an blow gun handy to remove any clogging that will accrue)
Step 6. If 320 is used you can either skip to sealer or prime it again with either 1 or 2 coats and then wet sand it with 600 grit to get a clean cut finish
Step 7: I use DPLF from ppg as a sealer. It comes in 6 different colors. Pick the one that is closest to your base color for easier coverage. The ratio is 2 parts DP90LF (the number stands for the color code and 90 would be black) then 1 part catalyst. I recommend adding 1/2 a part reducer to help it smooth out the sealers finish to give a smoother surface to paint on. YOU DO NOT NEED TO SAND SEALER UNLESS THERE IS AN IMPERFECTION. Some people think you do but the truth is that if you are still in its flash time for top coating which is about 3 days then there is no need to scuff or sand the sealer surface.
Step 8: If you have done all of those steps the correct way and not skipping ANYTHING then it will be ready for the base coat. Read the P sheets for painting recommendations. Most paints can be painted with a 50/50 over lap spray while others are shot with a 75% over lap spray. Make sure you let it flash COMPLETELY it WILL mess up otherwise. Nothings worse then having a solvent pop after its all done.
Step 9: Clear coat. If you have never sprayed it before expect a lot of runs 
The trick about clear coat is to watch your gloss. You want clear coat very wet but not too wet because it will run. When spraying it watch behind the spray pattern to adjust your speed by looking at the material. When it is on the car it should look wet and not dry like over spray. This is a good indicator for letting it guide you on your speed and gun distance.
Step 10: Cutting and buffing. You will most likely have a lot of crap in your clear coat and some runs. You will need to use a high grit such as 1200 or 1500 grit to get rid of the texture then buff it with a wool pad. 3M makes an amazing rubbing compound. I don't have the part number for it but it is meant to take out 1200 grit sand scratches. Then take a foam pad and a glaze compound made for 3000 grit sanding marks and it will get rid of any swirl marks from buffing.
Now that is a
VERY basic list for painting a car. I didn't mention all of the little details like surface prep, masking, tack clothes, ect..
Also for cleaning solvents I use OMNI MX190 to clean bare metal to removed wax and grease then I metal clean and condition it. Then right before painting I use PPG's DX394 with a lint free clothe. After the cleaners I use a tack clothe to remove any dust or lint that is on the car.
Here's my biggest tip of all.
Let someone that KNOWS what they are doing paint it or leave it how it is now. You will go through soooooo many head aches trying to do this yourself. Save the time and money. Don't try this. There is a reason why its a profession. It is not something you can just do right away at least the correct way.
PS 1500 is cheap for a full job... I wouldn't paint a bike for less then 1000
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, July 09, 2009 10:19 PM
http://nwgme.org
YOU should not paint her.
YOU dont have experience. (aka: it will look like crap)
YOU will look like more of a noob when your car looks like a P.O.S
If i were to say to you: "have your car painted by someone with your level of skill at painting." you would say HELL NO! I WANT A GOOD JOB!
listen to that doubt inside you, if there is some. you dont have the experience it takes.
so we agree that Paint is NOT EASY and takes a great great deal of skill to do right and make look good.
if you want a professional looking paint job, have a PROFESSIONAL do it.
if you want a crappy, regret filled paint job, do it yourself.
PLEASE read up before posting threads.
"To do even just "good" work, you do need hands on and quite a bit time wise in training. We cannot teach you to be an auto body professional over the internet, it's just not possible"
What you should have read before posting
do right by your car, and get it done correctly. in the end paint jobs and brain surgery are things you dont cheap out on. unless you want to be a retard.
listen to Bhirst...
"Here's my biggest tip of all.
Let someone that KNOWS what they are doing paint it or leave it how it is now. You will go through soooooo many head aches trying to do this yourself. Save the time and money. Don't try this. There is a reason why its a profession. It is not something you can just do right away at least the correct way."
look at the paint jobs on his car...
nuff said.
How much experience do you have painting? Obviously not much since you had to ask those questions.
http://nwgme.org
Nah i feel you man... but props for wanting to learn...
sounds like a great idea with getting some crap parts to practice...
(if you paint a hood that will fit a 2002 black....let me know....lol)
ps: and looks good...lol
wtf why is there 2 copys of this thread.....someone lock this one(cannon). and $50 rustoleum job is YOUR(op) best bet.
Actually this one should stay open because it has the most pictures in it.
Good luck on your project man. Keep us updated on how it goes.
And get rid of the wing... it makes baby jesus cry...
If you do end up trying to paint the car yourself.... keep in mind, when you get a real paint job done later on, it's going to be even more time in prep work.... to remove the paint you put on there.
I quickly rattle-canned my car red to match before I drove to the Bash in 05... and it was fine, except that I wasted probably 150 hours sanding all that crap off before I took it to the paint booth for the real paint job.
Paint is something you look at all the time... and so does everyone else. Like most modifications, it's cheaper in the long run to just do it once... but do it right that first time, instead of a hack job.
gyuys...he said hes just doing this untill he gest money for a real job...so to me it sounds like hes just doing some touch up spots, and not repainting the whole entire car as of right now on his own. if i were you, i would get some like 100 grit sand paper, sand everything down that has a bad area untill its smooth to the touch...then get some rattle can Dupont paint that matches yur color, and if your good with painting, and know how to feather it in.it will look pretty damn decent. i know it wont be perfect...and some of thse painter guy on here wont like it...but hey. it doesnt look horrible! i did it on my car untill i can afford the paint for the whole car. and you really cant notice it. but its only a temporary fix.get it painted as soon as you can.
before you do anything to your car do yourself a favor and get rid of that
spoiler
!pıɐן ʇǝƃ oʇ pǝǝu noʎ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
-_-_-_-JCO EastSiderZ-_-_-_-
why the hate on the spoiler it adds character, thats about it down force on the rear for a front wheel drive car is silly but im going for the ricer look
the other thread has the link to my $50 paint job. That car looks like the perfect candidate for it
Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.
sorry. but. if i had a car come in to my shop with a 50 dollar rustoleum paint job i would quickly either turn them away or charge them double. the paint would have to be stripped before anything decent could be laid down. and that takes a LOT of time. if i were you. if you really wanted to save money. just save and have a profesional do it right the first time. most of what your showing in your pictures needs to be stripped off, feathered out, primed, blocked, sealed, based, cleared for it to look good.
so poeple that dont know what there talking about. please stop recomending the 50 dollar paint job. thats for beaters and people that dont care. if he plans on having a good paintjob done in the future all your doing is costing him WAY more money than needs be
err.. I've been painting cars since before you were born. If you really had a clue you would know that Rustoleum is simply enamel, which was the basis of many cars we painted back in the 70's.
And if a car goes in for a custom paint job, it darn well better be stripped to bare metal first.
So the know-it-alls that say it can't be done, and it will ruin your car, just need to shut up and talk about their stereos.
Proof is here:
http://www.rolledon.com/forum.htm
Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.
hahaha. Roll on paint jobs are hardly "painting", i could care less if you have been painting cars since before i was born. A roll on paint job should be stripped regardless of what paint was used as 90% of people do not prep a car correctly when they paint. Would you want to just paint over his roll on job without knowing what was under it? cause i certainly wouldn't. I wouldn't offer ANY warranty for peeling or anything. simple fact is that rolling on paint is a LOT different than laying down a good paint job; and no you don't have to "strip any car to bare metal for a custom paint job", there's absolutely NO need. If the panel is straight, the paint is not peeling,scratched, or chipping. all you need to do is wet sand, PREP, mask, seal, base, clear. there is NO need to strip to bare metal' that's absolutely pointless. not to mention the guy mentioned nothing about a custom paint job. just that he wanted it repainted. And also by the way i do know what i'm talking about. i'm I-CAR and ASE certified in body and paint. not to mention i have a degree for auto body repair and currently work in a shop. and before you say "well your only 19 you cant know what your talking about" you can stick it, because some of us value our education. How many cars did you paint "back in the 70's"? The oldest you would have been was 19.
KTHNXBAI
MOR RAGE!
no serious guys calm down lol im going to go ahead with the roll on paint because my body is straight so all i have to do is sand and paint ill post pictures when its done and you can compare it to your 3k paint jobs, ill go spend 2,950 on my ecotec
im thinking if its going to be cheap it might as well look original so im thinking this
two tone ftw? any feed back and no i dont have photo shop so paint works just fine for now
