well this winter im takin my car into my auto body class and doin some work to it an i was wonderin if it would hurt anything if i bondo the front bumper to the fender so there isn't a seem and the same thing with the roof meetin the rear panel?
1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto
that would look pretty tight go for it
Bondo will crack, DO NOT USE JUST BONDO FOR MOLDING. You're going to have to at least use some type of epoxy, panel bond would work good. But for real, this is one of those things that would be wise to spend the extra time and money to do it right, anyone can slap bondo over a seam and say they molded it and feel warm about it. But it will crack, and it will look bad. Also, in my opinion, it doesn't even look good to mold all the seems, on top of being impractical (if you need to take off your bumper for whatever reason, you're pretty much going to have to hack it off and have both your bumper and fenders repainted.)
-- John
SO TRUE^^
I curbed my front bumper the first week I bought it. I had to take it off and get it painted again. You would think that with it being fresh paint you would be very careful but, even with that I still hit a curb because I was so used to driving at home with the car not lowered so I didnt hit a curb I actually hit a piece of raised concrete I was NEVER close to before but since I lowered the car when getting painted I wasnt used to it. If they were molded I would have been screwed!!! Plus if you dont mold them you can change the kit without repainting the fenders again.
trailer queen....practical. Daily driver = molded front and rear not pratical
First of all, what auto body class teaches you to "BONDO" panels together?
And second, who teaches you that body filler is called BONDO.
i said it once and i'll say it again. if your car is a dd do not mold anything. it makes everything else a pain in the ass.
lol....wow....lol......ya i am sure when ya get in there your teacher will not teach you to mold a plastic bumper to metal
i dunno dude i would not mold anything on a daily driver, the wear and tear it will take it will crack i dunno dude good luck with what ever your doin
can i haz bondo
::shivers:: bondo ::shivers:: anyways, if you really and truly want to do it, um, i'd do a flexible panel adhesive, flexible glass, etc... it's going to be more work than its worth. I'm molding my kit in now, but it's fiberglass. Whole different world. Change your profile too, your car has the 2200, not the ecotec.
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Go to an autobody paint and supply store and buy 3m's Body seam filler. Its paintable and flexible so it wont crack. The bottle looks like caulk.
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Madjack wrote:Like I said before, building an engine like ours (2.2 or 2200) is a painstaking chore , since there is so few custom made parts. It's frustrating to me too, but that's what I like about doing this engine, it's the challenge.
if your bumper is urethane your going to want to lo0k into a urethan adhesive,fiberglass or any kind or light weight filler will not adhere properly to it,over time it will just crack off,i have my entire car molded and just slapping body filler on IS NOT THE WAY,when molding(a fiberglass kit) you use fiberglass resin and fiberglass mat to join the kit/fender etc. body filler is only used to fill in small dips anything over 2 inches eventually will just crack......
ok guys i just wanted to add alil here: i have a 99 fire daily driver and its 3/4's molded! which means everything is molded but the front and i love the look of it and yes its inprectical but seems ok so far, rear hasn't cracked, drivers side skirts is fine, but passenger side if all cracked to hell because i accicentally ripped the front bumper off pulling into a drive way and flexed the fender enough to creack the skirt about 5/8 the way up it!
so yeah molded is not practical on a dail driver, but neither is cameleon paint either
My entire car is molded also and its a daily driver and dont have any cracks. its been molded for like 10 months already. my rear bumper is FG,Urethane,Metal,FG and hasnt cracked. I still have my stock bumper on, on top of it is my rear body kit bumper (off of a mustang) which is molded on to my stock bumper, then the top part of my stock bumper is molded on to the metal 1/4 panels. then my widebody kit is molded on to all of that (on top). as stated, its been like that for almost a year and doesnt even have a small stress crack or anything. I did have to make huge and i mean HUGE scratches on the stock bumper in order for the fiberglass to stick. I used a grinder and went wild!
Well i didn't talk to my teacher yet about it i was just puttin out the idea out there of how it would look.
1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto
you can bondo it together just make sure you put alot of bondo on your seam so it doenst crack.
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^^ dont listen to this guy, the more filler u use, the more likely it is to crack!
what are u talking about man I took auto body class when I was in High School and you dont think I dont know what im talking about ok
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Xtreme96Sunfire wrote:what are u talking about man I took auto body class when I was in High School and you dont think I dont know what im talking about ok
Most auto body high school teachers are hacks that couldn't handle being a real bodyman.
Seriously if you think that you can just build up bondo upon bondo and expect it to adhere properly, then you flat out aren't experienced enough in this subject and shouldn't offer up any advice.
-- John
Use the correct type of Fiberglass + Resin + Super autobody adhesive that would look nice but it will take some time,Good Luck.
my auto body teacher owns his own body shop so ya
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^ not to be a @*&# to u but nobody that knows a thing about bodywork is going to agree with u about using filler and ONLY filler to mold something together. Not even FG will hold together with just filler, much less urethane.
Bottom line, bondo is not for filling body seams.
-- John
^ YEA!! so yea... umm yea anyways i didn't ask my tech teacher about it but im sure he would have pointed me in the right direction. I was just wonderin because it would look good IMO, but u guys are right it would be worthless to do that then lower it and hit something and have to replace the dame thing and have all of it messed up. What about the other car where the roof meets the rear quater panel?
1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto
Xtreme96Sunfire wrote:what are u talking about man I took auto body class when I was in High School and you dont think I dont know what im talking about ok
lmao!! now that`s funny!! because ya don`t oh ya let`s slap on bondo on plastic and mold in into metal wow!!!
anyway..........i am lost right now about the seam your talkin about can ya show me a pic so i can help ya out more??
can i haz bondo
I think I know what he's talking about. Where the side window meets the rear quarter panel. That you could mold, and mold fairly easily.
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