if anyone can help me please...i would like to get rid of my keyholes in the trunk and both doors...how would i go about doing that?
also the handles on the doors i would like to get rid of...but i wanna be able to open my door without remotes...so should i leave them on? can i get some that look smaller? or is there another alternative?
...are you trolls that dumb that you cant realize mid 15s is slower then 14s?
Rob Silvera wrote:if anyone can help me please...i would like to get rid of my keyholes in the trunk and both doors...how would i go about doing that?
For the trunk, if you don't have a trunk latch lever in the cabin of your car or a remote trunk latch(key fob), you will need to install one or the other. For the door locks, you will need a keyless entry kit either from another cav/sunfire (not sure about how to do this) or you will need to buy a kit from SPAL or Autoloc. I recommend SPAL. After those details are out of the way, you will need to remove the lock cylinders from your doors and trunk - very easy. They are just held in place by a C-Clip. Pull the C-Clip, then remove the rod attatched to the cylinder (you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it). Next you will need to weld sheet metal (~22GA) in the place of the lock cylinders. If you don't know how to do this, have a body shop do it for you, or practice on your car - whichever you like.
Rob Silvera wrote:also the handles on the doors i would like to get rid of...but i wanna be able to open my door without remotes...so should i leave them on?
If you want to be able to open your door without remotes AND without handles, you will need a switch mounted in an inconspicuous location on the car - NOT advised, NOT safe. If you leave the door handles on, but shave the locks, and don't want to have a remote to unlock the doors, you could either leave your car unlocked 24/7 or do the hidden switch idea. I wouldn't advise either.
Rob Silvera wrote:can i get some that look smaller? or is there another alternative?
I believe someone took the rear door handles from a Dodge Neon and put them on his/her car. I can't remember if they needed modification or not. A search might turn up something on that.
Don't get confused on what I said about the hidden switch - It is a good idea to have one incase you lock yourself out or something like that, but I don't think it would be a good idea to use one as your primary way to enter your car. Because as soon as someone finds out about that switch, kiss all your valuables in your car good-bye. If you need any help on this topic or don't understand anything I'm talkin about
, just PM me.
I'm in the process of doing this right now. I partially used this link :
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/295805/9 to set everything up. I'm incorperating my solenoids into my alarm with solenids; when I hit the unlock button once, the driver's door opens, when I hit it again, the passenger side opens. As for the doors and locks shaving them, here's the trunk bezel:
I used fiberglass and some dolphin glaze to cover up the hole, sanded the PONTIAC symbol and the reflector down so they were smooth, and primered over it.
Here's one of the doors I shaved:
Instead of welding the panel in, I used structural adhesive. It's stronger than welding, and you don't have to worry about rust or panel warpage.
Here's the finished product:
I also shaved my antenna with this method. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask.
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Sponsored by:
JLCaudio.net
how is the stronger than welding? i call
on that. there is no way that is thronger than welding. but your right about the panel warping. you end result looks great though. just hope it holds up
I'm gonna have to say no on the "stronger than welding" part. There is no way that adhesive is gong to hold up better than a proper weld.
If an adhesive is stronger than your welds, you're doing it wrong. As for the warp factor, it is also easily avoided. Don't try to weld a plug in your keyhole in one single bead. Tack it at four spots, let them cool, overlap those with 4 more tacks etc. until it's solid around the seam. If you overlap the tacks by about 1/2 they will be as strong as a single bead but letting them cool between sets stops excess heat build up and warpage.
If you have access to a TIG welder it'd make the job even easier since you would hardly need any filler. You can tack the pieces in just by using the TIG torch without a rod.
Other than that, Lanman has some very clean body work going on! Nice job.
well the remote to unlock the door doesnt bother me...but for somereason i just dont like the door popper thing...what if i hit the button in my pocket and my door pops open?? ill probably just leave the handles...they're not that bad...but those key hole...are rediculus..thanx guys
...are you trolls that dumb that you cant realize mid 15s is slower then 14s?
I don't think you will have a problem with them popping open on their own unless you buy Door Poppers also. If you just buy the kit with the solonoids/without the poppers, you should be fine. My doors don't come open unless I pull on them after pushing the button.
sorry to thread crap but panel bond is as strong as a weld, panle bond is used on roof`s along with a spot weld
mercedes benz does nothing but panel bond the trunk floors in, 3m`s panel bond is i-car approved and tested that it is as strong as a spot weld
3m panle bond is a epoxy based adhesive and it is corrosion resistant and can be resistant spot welded right through the panle bond and still maintain it strutcual integrity
so it depends on what panle bond he did use fusor sucks duramix was bought out by 3m
so just alittle FYI for ya guys
can i haz bondo
I was just going to say, there are some cars that come stock with panel bond/structural adhesive. I saw a demonstration once a long time ago where a piece of metal was welded to a fender, and a piece of metal was structurally adhered to the fender. They pulled on the piece of metal with a winch or something of the sorts; the part that was welded came off. The part that had structural adhesive on it, well, the whole fender got ripped off!!! Plus another great thing about structural adhesive is it is water-proof (the stuff I use is at least) and it holds like no other. To add to big daddy's list, camaros and corvettes use panel bond to put on panels.
http://www.autofieldguide.com/articles/089903.html
Also, even with tig, you still have the metal melting to itself, which will cause it to rust. The only other way I can think of putting a panel in (please don't try this at home kids) is putting it in and filling it with lead. But lead's poisonous and gets ya sick.
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http://www.cardomain.com/id/lanman31337
Sponsored by:
JLCaudio.net
