i wanna take off the side molding off of my car. a friend of mine said that 3m take was holding it on.. is this true? and if not is it easy to take off?
hell no its not easy to take off...get some beer..a lanyard...a heat gun...and like 4 sets of thumbs..and ur set..
when u get it going to dont start pulling with ur hands other wise paint will chip like mine
sweet always good to see that come back up!
i found that while trying to figure out how to get mine off. Thanks Streaker for helping make my car look better.
I took mine off of my black car. The glue is completely off, but you can still see where it was....like easily. Is there anything I can do to get whatever is left there off? I don't know if buffing it will help cuz i waxed it already and that didnt do anything. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Cavanaugh300 wrote:I took mine off of my black car. The glue is completely off, but you can still see where it was....like easily. Is there anything I can do to get whatever is left there off? I don't know if buffing it will help cuz i waxed it already and that didnt do anything. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
i know what you are talking about. when i took off my emblems you could kind still see where it was. we have the same year Z24 and its because the paint around it faded and the paint behind the molding didn't....for obvious reasons. I'm guessing the only way to really fix it is to get it painted.
Keith you wont have to worry about the fading problem. but i know using a blow dryer or heat gun helps get the sticky stuff off. also put rubbing alcohol on a rag and rub....it works the best and a lot easier than bare thumbs. also i have heard that goo be gone works well.
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I used pure acetone to get the glue off, worked well. And the procedure is simple but it gets to be a pain after awhile. Altho i think it was worth the effortt. And on mine i had no fading where the molding was, the only aftermath of removing them is there is a very thin line thats barely noticable in some places around the edges of where the molding was where it looks like the glue bonded with the paint. And i cant get it off but its really not noticable unless u are an inch away and staring at it. And KNOW that its there. But other then that, good luck with it all.
Ok I have a pic now to show what I was talkin about before. It's not that the paint is faded, I dunno what it is. You can see it really good in the pic because there is a glare. It's a little less noticable when it's not so bright out...
Anyone got any ideas as to what I could do to remove what was left there. Its not just faded paint because you can see what was under the molding...
You didn't rub it away enough. Mine had that problem and I rubbed some more and it came off. I just used fishing line to get most of the strip up, then I gradually pulled back and back slowly until the trim came off. Rubbed off all the glue with my thumbs. They both had blisteres for about 2 weeks though...ow.
You could always try Goo Gone. That helped while I was doing mine. Just don't rub it in too hard.
Cavanaugh300 wrote:Anyone got any ideas as to what I could do to remove what was left there. Its not just faded paint because you can see what was under the molding...
Post the photo at one of the Meguair's forums. You will get some expert replies there.
I am guessing a mild paint cleaner like Scratch-X or even Color-X might work.
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I would probably recommend using I think it is meguiars #9 swirl remover on the doors which is a very mild cutting compound wax I guess i would call it. Then after that is done I would hit it maybe with meguiars #26 high tech yellow pure carnuba wax should clean it up nicely. Also maybe you might want to clay bar the whole door to remove any contaminants in the paint first before you do it.
Also only use soft soft baby diaper rags when cleaning wax off your ride. Also use a damp sponge applicator. Not soaking but damp. Ummm..... Oh ya be sure car is clean first so wash it by hand maybe, then do the try the clay bar then swirl remover then the #26 high tech and it should look like new. DOnt use a circular motion when putting on the wax either. Side to side motions. Oh ya and dont do it out in the sun. After all that the paint should feel like it just got out of the paint booth.
We did this to my brother chev pickup b/c it had the big CHEVROLET sticker accross the tail gate and even after my brother took it off you could still see the lettering in the right light. After we washed the truck. We claybar'd the tail gate, Then used swirl remover on it then finished it up with the high tech and the tail gate looks like it just came out of the paint booth but also feels so SMOOTH.
My 2 bits even though it is kind of a rant of random ideas as they popped into my head,
Hope it gives you a place to start.
Thanks a lot, I'll be doin that soon, unless it starts snowin a lot....then it'll have to wait, but thanks again.
ok here is a way easier way to do this the moldings on the cavy`s are palstic so i use a wide scraper to get the molding started and i pull it off then i use my eraser wheel it removes pin stripes and double sided tape you can buy those at any body shop supply store if ya have a electric drill it will work just fine it
if your paint comes off with the moulding you door was repainted @!#$ty prep job
if the clear has faded if you know how to use a buffer buff it out
all the other methods are ok to use but it`s making a real simple project into a whole day ordeal not worth it
can i haz bondo
