Well below are my dyno sheets from the other day. Now the shop that tuned my car are a great bunch of guys. But they never tune cavaliers. I don't know if they just get frustrated with my car since its so bastardized as far as different ecu, car, and wiring harness because they are all different years. But its never easy tuning my car by them.

My results were 303.34 whp and 286.84 wtq at 15psi. At 15psi the car just stops making power. I have a gt3071r and that 15 lbs is barely spooling the turbo to make anymore power. I am running the 2000 ecu with gm s/c reflash with a 2 bar map.

Now, my question is do I need to do more mods such as cams, intake manifold, and turbo manifold to get my HP numbers up. Or is it all in the tuning? I would really wish I could get someone to tune my car that knows our J's.








Thanks for any suggestions.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

do you have any idea of how much timing they are commanding or how much Kr you are seeing?

From the chart your AFRs are in between 11.0:1-11.5:1 with a slight dip resulting in 10.5:1, I usually shoot for atleast 11.6:1- 11.8:1 area on a boosted application and try to hold that area pretty consistent.
your afrs really are not that bad and the timing is pretty smooth up until the 5500 rpm range. Tuning can always yield you more power, but in this situation unless timing advance was ridiculously low which I doubt, I'd look toward mods if you were looking for anything over the 20ish whp area.

Thanks for your insight. They said they were seeing A LOT of knock! That is the reason they suggested me to try to get an LS1 knock sensor if it will screw right in, now Im not sure if thats a direct replacement or not.

I can not remember how much timing he was adding or taking away. Ill have to check on that.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Would need to see your tune to get more info. Also what duty cycle is your injectors at? Who, or what picked 15psi? Did they start lower and work up to that and stop for whatever reason? except for the dip at 5700 RPMs looks like it holds the power great.



FU Tuning

Dave I would definitely say your car has more in it with your mods. Im going to be running alchy injection with my turbo setup eventualy, ever think about that to go with working on your tune? You would be able to get the most out of it doing actual dyno tuning.

Definitely get your tune file up here and Im sure people will be able to help you and the shop get some more power out of it.

John, I think he picked 15 psi because with the GT30 he knew I wanted the max and it takes that much to get that turbo spooling.

I am trying to find out your guy's other questions right now from my tuner. As I was not there when he was dyno tuning. Trying to get him to email me the file.

I know he has me running off the wastegate pressure instead of a boost controller.









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

If you are having knock issues you should consider meth or higher octane fuel. Consider running a stand alone that will give you more variables to adjust?

Jbdy04 wrote:If you are having knock issues you should consider meth or higher octane fuel. Consider running a stand alone that will give you more variables to adjust?

Your right, my tuner did say to run 100 octane or so. Ive been running 94. I forgot he told me that.

He just text me back and he will email me the file tomorrow. So check back guys.

Thanks.









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

on 15psi And 9.0:1 cr pistons I don't see why Octane would be an issue yet.

Dr.Vega wrote:on 15psi And 9.0:1 cr pistons I don't see why Octane would be an issue yet.

I agree. Need to find out if it is ghost knock or not. Really need some fresh datalogs to look at.



FU Tuning

John Higgins wrote:

Dr.Vega wrote:on 15psi And 9.0:1 cr pistons I don't see why Octane would be an issue yet.

I agree. Need to find out if it is ghost knock or not. Really need some fresh datalogs to look at.

Ok.

But just for the record, my final CR is 9.2:1










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Any more details about the different knock sensor?

Numbers definately seem a tad on the low side to me but I would really need to see the tune and some logs to be able to see if anything is out of the ordinary. From the dyno graph it looks like the car was breaking up to me which would contribute to it not building more power. We need to know your timing for sure and also just how much knock you're seeing. I'm seeing practically zero knock on my car right now and i'm now at 25psi on 93 octance.



President/Founder - 607 Motorsports

I am going to say now the manifold is going to start holding you back. Header style manifolds are much more efficent. Also what are you running for a lower motor and trans mount? On the turbo car, we are running a solid dog bone and ttr trans mounts. We are seeing a lot of knock as well. But we are running 11* of total timing, also on 93 octane lol. I would say if you could get Ryan to look at it, he can probably get more out of it. He is a wizard. After his first round of tuning, we gained 100 hp. Your car has more in it. Maybe its time for some HO cams An intake mani would also help to haha

I'd be willing to bet you can thin that out to somewhere in the 12.2afr range. The knock they're seeing is probably phantom knock. Could be anything from mounts knocking to a loose bolt/washer some where. When we first started tuning on mine there was some odd knock at around the 3500 mark,ended up being the flex pipe in the exhaust. The guy that runs the dyno has one of these http://www.phormula.co.uk/KnockDetection-KS-3.aspx. Makes it real easy to figure out true knock from phantom.

Might try dropping your exhaust off and do a pull or two to see if there is a restriction. Pull your plugs and see what they look like,might need to drop the gap a little. Make sure your plug wires aren't arcing across each other(start it up a night with no lights on and watch for a glow or arcing between plug wires or surrounding metals). The log manifold shouldn't be a hindrance yet,a header style would help to spool faster but probably not worth the money/trade off yet. On 94 octane and your setup IMHO you should be about 25hp higher even with an auto. Also see if someone can do a diagnoses on your trans. it sounds a little odd when shifting. Might try some synthetic fluid and a filter change.

Just some random thoughts.





"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"

Dave, do some research on the knock sensor. I dont' think you can just swap in a LS1 knock sensor since the computer is programmed to only work with the factory one. Also I have 4 credits left on my cable if you want to borrow it sometime this summer you can use it to make some logs while at the track to see if the KR is an issue maybe its pulling a lot of timing. It may have been part of the issue the other night with the temps we were seeing.


___________________________________________________________________

Hahn Stage II - Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Turbo-back Exhaust | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | Team Green LSD | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |

JR, Im running stock trans mount. I have the gold lower engine mount with red bushings. I can't remember where I got that from lol. Rksport, or TTR.. I do need Ryan to dyno tune it for me, but I'm not sure how often he comes back to Ohio. Oh, you know I want one of those intakes. A turbo header is definately in the works since my log is cracked. HO cams are a must I know, that will be a winter project lol.

Gary, you know now that you mention phantom knock, that turbo intake filter is resting right ON my power steering pump. Metal to metal. I will try taking that off and see if there is a difference. I did gap my plugs to .028. Pulled them on Saturday and they look fine, normal wear. Btw, I think I know the problem with my shifting at the track. I wasnt mashing the pedal to the floor, my car is tuned for WOT since it's auto. So I was probably only giving it 70% throttle because I really can't tell if my pedal is all the way down sometimes. We'll see, I have a lot of stuff to check thanks to your guy's suggestions.

Erik, thanks man Ill let ya know about that. Im willing to bet that intake filter hitting ps pump is causing some problems.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, June 24, 2009 6:39 AM








~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Yea Dave Ive gotten alot of phantom knock from the exhaust hitting the subframe, mostly with my old header/exhaust setup when I was sc'd. Like said Ill definitely be picking up an alchy injection kit for my turbo setup sometime soon, that will help with knock and safely bump the timing and help prevent detonation, as well as cool which is what most sc guys use it for. If you can actualy dyno tune with it I say definitely pick up a kit.

And why you still on stock trans mount when ttr made that awesome trans mount for our gay-ass autos??lol. I think someone on heres selling a new chrome powdercoated with red bushing too

Quote:

At 15psi the car just stops making power.

so you're saying that, if you raise boost higher the car doesn't make any more power?

Quote:

I am running the 2000 ecu with gm s/c reflash with a 2 bar map.

2 bar MAP maxes out at 15psi... or 14.7psi if you want to be super technical.
since you're trying for more than 15psi of boost with a 2 bar MAP.......

Mike I havent gotten that yet because I see no proof that that mount is worth the money getting. Thats just my opionion. For the right price, yea ill buy one. But not full price lol

Btw, My file will be emailed to me tomorrow.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Check in your Logs to make sure you are getting 100% TPS at WOT

HO cams would be a big improvement

DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:

Quote:

At 15psi the car just stops making power.

so you're saying that, if you raise boost higher the car doesn't make any more power?

Quote:

I am running the 2000 ecu with gm s/c reflash with a 2 bar map.

2 bar MAP maxes out at 15psi... or 14.7psi if you want to be super technical.
since you're trying for more than 15psi of boost with a 2 bar MAP.......

Damn PJ I missed that yesterday.

right and right on your points. Since those two points are brought to light, what can I do to make more than 15 lbs? Get rid of the 2 bar, then use what?











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

You can tune for more than 15 psi. We are running 17 psi and fetter was running 20 psi. I think once Ryan gets his hands on this thing it will be a beast for sure.

I'm only running a 1bar map on my car and am now pushing 25psi with adequate fuel. My timing tables are obviously limited but right now i'm at about 8-9 degrees at WOT. I have yet to see any significant knock so I'm going to start adding some timing now with the race gas and see what I can accomplish.



President/Founder - 607 Motorsports

I have the HPT file. I can't open it though. Can I email it to someone and you post it for me?










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ