I'm putting together a crank pulley with teeth to make my own crank trigger. yes I know you can use our own signals. I don't want to. at least not now, I want to take guess out of the equation for now.
my question to you is what tooth wheel should I run
?
I think its 32-1 but I really dont know?
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
see what Im having trouble comprehending is that there saying under generic wheel settings you can run a 4-1 6-1 30-1 doesnt matter.
now with a 4-1 wheel are they referring to 5 points 4 teeth and one gap evenly spaced between each other
and then the same with the rest just subbing the values.
?
"
boobs now with Riboflabin"
Jcavi wrote:see what Im having trouble comprehending is that there saying under generic wheel settings you can run a 4-1 6-1 30-1 doesnt matter.
now with a 4-1 wheel are they referring to 5 points 4 teeth and one gap evenly spaced between each other
and then the same with the rest just subbing the values.
?
addition and subtraction.
examples...
whats 4-1?
take a circle and place 4 marks evenly spaced around it, then take one away.
whats 6-1?
take a circle and place 6 marks evenly spaced around it, then take one away.
whats 60-2?
take a circle and place 60 marks evenly spaced around it, then take two away.
the missing teeth act as the reference point for the MS.
the trouble is, our stock reluctor ring is actually 6+1. there's an extra marking back to back with another one. So far as I know its difficult, but not impossible to setup.
the most commonly used trigger is a 36-1 wheel. the only thing you have to do is figure the cranking angle and what not in order to get ignition timing correct. I'm pretty sure its all detailed in the stuff I linked.
If not, hit up Ms forums somewhere, thats a much better place to answer a question like this.
And in case you were wondering, our stock crank sensor is a VR sensor.. so you can't wire it directly to MS1 without some kind of conversion circuitry (VR sensors give out SIN waveforms.. you need a square wave)
I think there's addition kits you can buy for the MS-1 board or translator boxes, or you can switch to a hall-effect sensor which outputs square wave from the get go.
IDK if you have your MS board/setup yet, but the eMS-Pro accepts VR inputs with the flip of a dipswitch. Quite a bit more expensive than the MS board, but in my opinion worth every penny.
you may also want to look into MSII
ive actually been running MS for a while now. its what I used on the old motor, but I not only had to add a tach adapter, but I had to fudge the constants because it would only show half RPM, I assume do to the waste spark.
i think Im going to run a 6 -1 (5 teeth and one space between) and I am switching to a hall sensor, Im not really sure where to pick one up, but Im just going to fab a bracket and just run it that way. I can just tell the MS to look for a generic wheel, and it will figure out the rest as long as the sensor spaced properly.
what do you think
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
a buddy of mine uses MS on his jbody. He got rid of the tach adapter by telling megasquirt he has a 2 cylinder engine.
Why dont you do something like I did for mine...
Pic1 ,
Pic2 ,
Pic3
It works perfect with my MS.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, April 01, 2009 9:17 PM
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Quote:
the missing teeth act as the reference point for the MS.
the trouble is, our stock reluctor ring is actually 6+1. there's an extra marking back to back with another one. So far as I know its difficult, but not impossible to setup.
I take it that this is only a problem for ECO cars because of the ignition system. Cuz my car has the 7x wheel on it too, but MS runs fine with it. Though, that's all going through the ICM first, before going to the MS.
www.gmscf.com
SHOoff wrote:Quote:
the missing teeth act as the reference point for the MS.
the trouble is, our stock reluctor ring is actually 6+1. there's an extra marking back to back with another one. So far as I know its difficult, but not impossible to setup.
I take it that this is only a problem for ECO cars because of the ignition system. Cuz my car has the 7x wheel on it too, but MS runs fine with it. Though, that's all going through the ICM first, before going to the MS.
MS can run fuel on an eco all day, but when you want to give it control over the ignition system is when people apparently run into problems.
I can't speak from experience because I have yet to hook mine up.
^Actaully the newest release of the MSII Extra 2.0 code decodes the 7X reluctor wheel natively now. So now you dont need the ICM for the 2.3/2.4 motors. This was released like 2 weeks ago or so.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Quote:
So now you dont need the ICM for the 2.3/2.4 motors.
I recommended using the ICM from the early Saturn Ecotec engine several years ago. Not sure if anyone here tried, though.
LOL...why use an ICM at all if you don't have to?
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
So is this just an add on to ms2?
Blew it up, build numbers coming soon
Its just a simple firmware update to the MSII processor. This new firmware also allows for 4cy COP(can also be done on the MSII Extra 1.0) + 4 injector drivers aswell for full SFI.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, April 06, 2009 12:04 AM
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Quote:
LOL...why use an ICM at all if you don't have to?
Not everyone will end up with a version of MS capable of decoding a 7X wheel. 2.3 ICM is a kluge. It's nice to have another option.
-->Slow
^eh? All you need is an MS2...even if you have a MS1 all you need is a $88.00 chip upgrade. You can run the MS2 chip on any of the MS boards. The extra code makes no difference on the hardware. You can run V2.2,V3.0 or V3.57SMD with the MS1 or MS2. I honestly don't see anybody NOT having the hardware required. If you've got an MS2, you have the hardware for the 7X decode....simple as that. Any board will be fine.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
yeah I really would love to run cop, but I dont want to spring for the upgrade,
I ordered a trigger wheel from diyautotune, and I bought a ford escort 1.8 crank shaft postion sensor, now I just need to fab up a bracket and run the wiring. everything should work out noproblem, I just sketched on the bracket part but, I shouldnt have any problem,
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
Hows it going guys... I've been fighting with my car for a while to find it a standalone and would like to go wit the MS system. My only problem is, is understanding how you guys are wirining in the MS along with the 95+ J dash clusters??? Can you guys shed some light on this please. And by the way I have the 95 J, 5 speed wit h the bastard ecm. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Time to get it going again.....
Diesell wrote:Hows it going guys... I've been fighting with my car for a while to find it a standalone and would like to go wit the MS system. My only problem is, is understanding how you guys are wirining in the MS along with the 95+ J dash clusters??? Can you guys shed some light on this please. And by the way I have the 95 J, 5 speed wit h the bastard ecm. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I got an idea, how bout you find another thread to jack?
Or maybe just make your own.
www.gmscf.com
^lol. If you feel so inclined you can wire-up a GM CAN chip onto the MS and start playing around with the HEX calls from the CAN on the MS2. It's actually quite easy, just gotta be familiar with some light code to send the data from the MS to the MS CAN ship and the GM CAN will do the rest. Just a little bit of diligence from somebody and a full creature comforts MS2 could be had. I could do it but I'm way too busy right now to even worry about it. Also, I wont do that to Shifted either, this would directly cut his plans and I wont do that. I might somebody do it to my MS or just play around with it and that's it. But as it sits right now a COP + SFI + 7x native MS2 is possible. I havn't really looked at the graphs that slowolej posted fully yet but I'd imagine the CPS would even work for the cam trigger too.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Quote:
I got an idea, how bout you find another thread to jack?
Or maybe just make your own.
SHOoff, hey, sorry man...didn't mean to piss anybody off. My bad. But F*# %, take it easy. Its little things like that, that drive people away from sites like this.
Time to get it going again.....
LOL, and it's people like you that clutter up the threads making it impossible to find information relevant to the thread title. Thus making it so noboby can make use of the search function, in turn posting dumb questions, getting ripped on by the masses, then being drove away from sites like this. But thanks for being a superhero.
www.gmscf.com
Wow, I offer an apology and I still get crapped on.....Your the best!
Time to get it going again.....
O.P.-
I just switched to a 36-1 generic trigger wheel from diyautotune.com . Im running it in conjunction with a Hall Effect sensor from a newer Nissan Sentra. Pin 1= power, Pin 2= signal, Pin 3= Ground.
This allows you to remove the DIS module under the IDI cover, but not have to change your MS over to a VR input circuit. this Hall sensor will feed the same type of signal (5dvc logic) to the MS.
I then installed the Bosch Coil Drivers from DIY and now have two DSM coils directly driven by the MS unit... No more GM DIS at all! Works great.
M90'd Built LGO-15 PSI
http://webstarts.com/quadper4mance
It's nice huh! I wouldn't run a hall at all tho. They are plagued with mis-triggers cause by metallic road debris. I'd never ever use anything but a VR, which works fine. Now all you gotta do is get a cam trigger and SFI + COP
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
