how to spot a bad WB O2 - Tuning Forum

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how to spot a bad WB O2
Friday, October 17, 2008 2:26 AM
I hear alot of people talking about wearing out their wideband sensor. Or needing to replace it periodically.

how often do these last most people who leave them in the car?

I am just curious as to how you know your sensor is bad. Does the LC-1 know the sensor is bad and tell you? like a CEL would for the OEM sensor?
or is there some secret insiders trick for knowing a sensor is bad?

My one friend said he went thru 3 sensors on his LC-1 within a short priod of time, and i know he only tunes with his. and it sits in a box on the shelf most of the time... when asked how he knew it was bad he said he was getting inaccurate readings, and the AFR would hop around,

I dont think i have ever seen my afr sit steadily in one place for too long... so does that mean i have a bad sensor?

how can i prove it is bad to Innovate to get a replacement?




Re: how to spot a bad WB O2
Friday, October 17, 2008 2:08 PM
if you have an LC-1 and the XD-16 gauge it'll bring up an error when the sensor Fs up





Re: how to spot a bad WB O2
Friday, October 17, 2008 7:05 PM
Yea on my lc1 with the moates ometer it has an led that blinks and gives the the error code I think its two consecutive blinks then three seconds and two more blinks and so on for the sensor not being plugged in right or if u just need to replace it, guy who had it before me never calibrated it and ran race fuel so I'm guessing the sensor never heated up and the sensor wore out pretty quick, come to think of it I wonder how he never blew up his car lol




Re: how to spot a bad WB O2
Sunday, October 19, 2008 5:01 PM
your sensor is and shouldn't be standing still. Your car doesn't know where it stands afr size it just knows that's either rich or lean and takes a fueling guess now if it's jumping between 10 and 19 and the car runs like crap you might have an issue, however that's a problem with the 02 controling the car


"boobs now with Riboflabin"
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Re: how to spot a bad WB O2
Monday, October 27, 2008 4:26 PM
in open loop the AFR should be fairly steady ..
in closed loop it will probably bounce between 14 and 16, and go lean when in decel (DFCO)

2 blinks is "heater circuit open", could be the sensor wire got burned on the exhaust or something, or its not plugged in all the way.

if the gauge is stuck on a particular number, there is an error AFR you can program in, so its probably in some kind of error state.



Here is what you can do to reset the controller..failing this is probably the sensor or wiring IMO

If the car has been started in the last 8 hours go to step 1. If it hasn't, go to step 4.

1. Pull the fuel relay
2. Turn car over for about 5 seconds ... this will expel old exhaust gas and replace it with fresh air so you get an accurate calibration
3. Replace fuel relay
4. Plug in the serial connection and plug for programming it
5. Open LM Programmer
6. Turn key forward to run
7. Check all the settings. (device name, AFR-gasoline, analog output values, etc)
8. Click "reset calibration". this resets the heater calibration
9. Disconnect the programming plugs
10. Turn car off for 60 seconds
11. Turn key forward to run. Sensor will do the heater calibration (fast flash), then warm up (slow flash)
12. When gauge moves to >18 AFR, press and hold the calibration for 2 seconds
13. Turn car off. Wait 60 seconds
14. Start car. Should be fine


Doesnt take that long,but after that i moved the ground and its been fine ever since.

14.82 @ 97 mph
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