Ok so the last time I was able to really push the car was in approx. 80* weather so this might all be as a result of the cooler weather. Before the frankentrans was installed she used to rip very nicely all the way to my 7900 shift light. Now, the last couple times I've tried to get on it, it sputters a bit about 6k or so in 3rd and 4th. Can't use 1st or 2nd effectively enough to sample those. Only change from before to now is the trans itself and outside temp. Could the outside temprature be causing an mass increase in cfm to the point where I'm "blowing out" the spark now? No funtional boost gauge as of now, all I know is that I've got a tial f38 w/ approx 1.6 Bar (23.21psi). Any info/advice appreciated.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
My cav used to do the same thing when the weather changed. 85 during the day and sometimes when it got cool out like 55 or so it would act just like that. Until I got the port fueler it has not done that yet..
AFR?
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Mine blows out at over 16 psi. I can't figure it out and im gapped at .025. Wish i could run more then that.
AFR's are holding in the 11.8 to 12.0 range. I'm gonna pull a couple degrees of advance and see what happens, I've played w/ fuel settings all night w/ no luck.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
I think this is alpha-n showing its ugly face on a turbocharged car.
good luck skunk be sure to let us know what it was
Well yesterday I talked to my tuner we all think my wide band needs recalibrated or need a knew sensor. I just got the port fueler so we dyno tuned it again but this time we used their dyno wide band in my down pipe and them put my wide band back in and it was a point off. So we think the last dyno tune with using my wide band the car was more lean than we thought it was. So what im saying is make sure your wide band is right......
New sensor as of this spring, and open air calibration w/ every oil change.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
You said in a different thread that you have a different tune for different ambient temperatures.
Skunk wrote:
I have disabled open loop in my car. Yeah it's taken a lot of time to get the normal driving just right and every 10* in weather change I've got a different tune for it, but for me it's what I like. Full control of the pcm, well full to what we've got. Because of certain things I've got going on w/ my car it's actually been a lot easier for me to tune this way vs. running in an open/closed setting.
Why not just flash one of your cooler ambient temp tunes? Actually now that I read what you said more closely, you must be flashing different tunes between morning and afternoon?
If that were the case do you really think I would have made a post? Try again. Also it has nothing to do w/ normal driving. That is about as perfect as it can get.
More usefual info: Fuel psi stays at about 80, afr stays at 11.8-12.0 this makes no sense at all. So those 2 data points right there eliminate fuel cut. Pulled 2 degrees of spark out, so that eliminates too much advance. Now onto the plugs themselves. Let's see what a slightly smaller gap will give me.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
Skunk wrote:If that were the case do you really think I would have made a post? Try again. Also it has nothing to do w/ normal driving. That is about as perfect as it can get.
More usefual info: Fuel psi stays at about 80, afr stays at 11.8-12.0 this makes no sense at all. So those 2 data points right there eliminate fuel cut. Pulled 2 degrees of spark out, so that eliminates too much advance. Now onto the plugs themselves. Let's see what a slightly smaller gap will give me.
How many miles are on your plugs? Maybe time for new plugs. I have Cobalt SS/SC friends who average 6-8k on copper's.
FU Tuning
Plugs are about 2k or so. Haven't driven it yet, been trying to figure out if I changed anything from before the trans swap to after.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
Quote:
been trying to figure out if I changed anything from before the trans swap to after.
LOL you're having a similar problem like I had. I swapped transmissions and my headlights stopped working! haha
Get it figured out sir
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
So what was the verdict? Is it a mechanical or tuning issue?
Ok so I seem to have overlooked one slight detail...too much fuel pressure. Injectors are sticking shut/open at times during high rpms and heavy throttle input. That is why there is no problem during normal day to day driving and why I had no problem before. So basically it was a both, mechanical and tuning issue. I've got to put a smaller disk (2:1) in the fmu and retune the whole damn car. I'm pissed.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
you know i wonder if thats my problem to. When i had the hahn stage 2 injectors in i was runnin 20 psi at 35-40 fuel pressure. Then when i put the 650cc in. i took out the fmu and fuel pressure is not at 60 and i can only run 15. I wonder if the fuel pressure is putting the spark out and thats why it kinda misfires up past 15 psi.
I had some issues with my car when it would get colder, until I hot wired my fuel pump. Fuel pressure didn't drop, but fueling was the issue, more dense air needs more fuel, just a thought.
-Garrett
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
Using the GF's sn. Premium ran out on me
.
I adjusted one of the dials on the MSD that I had forgotten about, but was reminded by the girl about it. Set the rev limit to what I thought was 8100, it was actually 6100. Because of the MSD's placement it's kinda hard to see it. All is well now.
