Well, I went down to a machine shop today that was selling some engines. I stole (I say stole because its a pretty damn good price) a long block 350 for 200 (thats cheaper then I could find a complete long block online for plus I dont pay for shipping). I paid the guy for the block but left it there to have it bored out .30 over. So it'll be a 355. I haven't decided on what exactly is going into it yet. I guess i'll have to look around the internet and see what my wallet says I can buy. I was going to build a 383 stroker motor but after looking at machine work and the price of a crank I realized its too rich for my blood. So a build 355 will have to do.
I snapped a few pictures with my camera phone but when I got home I realized I cant send multimedia text messages. So i'll snap some pictures when it comes back from the machine shop. Suggestions and or comments welcome.
umm you know its not a good idea to bore a motor with out pistons right ??
nice buy on the motor
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM&00s/c sedans™)]umm you know its not a good idea to bore a motor with out pistons right ??
nice buy on the motor
he probably knows that
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[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM&00s/c sedans™)]umm you know its not a good idea to bore a motor with out pistons right ??
nice buy on the motor
I'm aware of that thank you. Even if I wasn't I'm sure the machine shop would let me know. I have pistons. Nothing special just some JE pistons bored .30 ofter with over sized rings. Its not going to be some extreme motor pushing 800+ HP. As long as I run 12's all motor i'm cool. Then i'll probably run a 200 shot of nitrous and call it good as far as motor work goes.
Rabbit(AKA RedAssassin) wrote:Well, I went down to a machine shop today that was selling some engines. I stole (I say stole because its a pretty damn good price) a long block 350 for 200 (thats cheaper then I could find a complete long block online for plus I dont pay for shipping). I paid the guy for the block but left it there to have it bored out .30 over. So it'll be a 355. I haven't decided on what exactly is going into it yet. I guess i'll have to look around the internet and see what my wallet says I can buy. I was going to build a 383 stroker motor but after looking at machine work and the price of a crank I realized its too rich for my blood. So a build 355 will have to do.
I snapped a few pictures with my camera phone but when I got home I realized I cant send multimedia text messages. So i'll snap some pictures when it comes back from the machine shop. Suggestions and or comments welcome.
Hey,
If there was nothing wrong with the block, I would have left the stock bore alone. You could have used the money you saved and put it towards the stroker kit. You will not notice the 5 cube difference. Also, if your budget is tight if you have a set of exhaust manifolds lying around, dont buy headers. The couple of extra HP is not worth the BS heat problems headers puts you through!!
Just mt 2 cents!!
Take care,
Will
Real Cars ( and Trucks. ) Have 3 Pedals, 2 Shifters, and No Sparkplugs!!
The stroker kit is 1600 plus machine work. Not worth it. I just bored the block .30 over mainly to make sure the cylinder walls were real good. Plus he's doing the work dirt cheap as a military discount.
William Bos wrote: Also, if your budget is tight if you have a set of exhaust manifolds lying around, dont buy headers. The couple of extra HP is not worth the BS heat problems headers puts you through!!
Just mt 2 cents!!
Take care,
Will
Also, ready any forums and they will say that on the F-body's headers/exhaust is one of the best bolt ons you can do. They give a significant HP gain for the money and time/effort you spend.
You can get solid 12's out of that motor and still have it be pretty reliable and streetable.
What year motor is it?
RE Audio
Rabbit(AKA RedAssassin) wrote:William Bos wrote: Also, if your budget is tight if you have a set of exhaust manifolds lying around, dont buy headers. The couple of extra HP is not worth the BS heat problems headers puts you through!!
Just mt 2 cents!!
Take care,
Will
Also, ready any forums and they will say that on the F-body's headers/exhaust is one of the best bolt ons you can do. They give a significant HP gain for the money and time/effort you spend.
@!#$ that @!#$. headers in a 3rd gen are a pain in the ass. i @!#$ hate headers. im gonna put stock camaro manifolds on my s10 w/ the v8 swap, so i dont have to pull the engine to change spark plugs lol
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You have been banned from posting on this site as of 2005-01-13 10:15:53.
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Lash wrote:You can get solid 12's out of that motor and still have it be pretty reliable and streetable.
What year motor is it?
Its a 92 so its a roller rocker motor.
It burns when I pee, depends on the headers you go with. I'm going to go with headman shorty headers and they aren't too bad to install.
Rabbit(AKA RedAssassin) wrote:Lash wrote:You can get solid 12's out of that motor and still have it be pretty reliable and streetable.
What year motor is it?
Its a 92 so its a roller rocker motor.
It burns when I pee, depends on the headers you go with. I'm going to go with headman shorty headers and they aren't too bad to install.
yeah ur probably right, my brother's camaro had some cheap headers, and my s10 has shorty headers, gotta take out the steering shaft to get the headers on.... eek.. so im probably just gonna get the manifolds instead, cuz longer headers for my dime would be too much $$$ at this point, and its never to late to get em installed if i choose to
Sorry.....
You have been banned from posting on this site as of 2005-01-13 10:15:53.
This ban will expire 2005-01-14 10:15:35 Pacific Time.
Reason: Free 84 Cavi Drop Top!
Rabbit(AKA RedAssassin) wrote:Lash wrote:You can get solid 12's out of that motor and still have it be pretty reliable and streetable.
What year motor is it?
Its a 92 so its a roller rocker motor.
Oh yeah! Solid 12's should be pretty doable with a decent build and a stall in that 700r4.
RE Audio
No 700R4, its a T-5 so I have to baby it until I get a T56. They say the Auto is actually better for drag racing, but I dont care. I find it way more fun to drive a manual. I'm driving on the streets more then the track. So i'd rather have a fun car to drive.
headers are a pain in the balls to install
-Borsty
Didn't your car come stock with a L98?? And a T-5?? wow.
RE Audio
Lash wrote:Didn't your car come stock with a L98?? And a T-5?? wow.
nope, not a single 3rd gen car was released with a t-5 and L98 combo, ever.
if it is that way you either confusing a 305 for a 350 or someone made it custom.
-Borsty
Yea, Borsty's right. No 3rd gen ever came with an L98/T-5. There are lots of rumors why. Some say they didn't want to compete with the vette, some say its too weak etc... Most believe its because the T-5 is a weak transmission.
Rabbit(AKA RedAssassin) wrote:Yea, Borsty's right. No 3rd gen ever came with an L98/T-5. There are lots of rumors why. Some say they didn't want to compete with the vette, some say its too weak etc... Most believe its because the T-5 is a weak transmission.
I know they didn't come with the t-5....but I was wondering why your reg. said 350 when you have a T-5 tranny ( manual 350 in your reg.)? Was it customized before you bought it?
RE Audio
Yea, I got it with the L98/T-5. They changed the motor to a L98. I ran the vin and it was a 305TPI with the G92 package before.
oooh...G92. I hear those are kinda rare.
RE Audio
Only 270 some odd were sold in 1991. I heard something like 20 some odd % of the thirdgens were G92 packages. I ran all the RPO codes and it was definately a special order car. It has the code for rear wheel disc brake delete, rear window defroster delete, and some other odd stuff. Why someone orders a performance package and then deltes the rear brakes is beyond me.
The best thing I like about having the G92 package is the .327 gears are hell of a lot better then the standard .279 gears. Of course when it was a 305TPI it also got a bigger cam. From reading the G92 Z28 with a 305TPI T-5 like mine was standard would beat a 350TPI auto. Of course they also made a 350 with the G92 package so obviously that beats out the 305.