yeah the time has come for a new car, my 01 z-24 is past its time with me and i want a new car, so i'm getting a cobalt ls, 5 speed of coarse. But i have to say the 4 years that i owned a J body the great car never treated me wrong, its at 103,000 and all i've had to replace is the brakes and tires,
cars for sale if you want to know more just contact me, asking $4,500, thats what i owe, KBB was $4,800.
What do you think i can talk the dealer down to right now im at $14,000 out the door its a base ls with cruise, spoiler, and side moldings, the red tag was $13,585 i'm thinking i'm going for $13,500 or maybe walk in with $13,000 cash think i'd walk out with the car?
Don't do it.
All you're gaining from the new car is that it will have less miles than your Z.
It's not gonna have more power, and it sounds like you're gonna lose your power locks and power windows if you're going for the base cobalt.
The resale on a 100,000 mile Cavalier isn't too good....I say you drive it into the ground and save your money to get a better car.
But that's just my opinion.
spend your 13 grand on something used years old that retains value, like a truck.
-Borsty
Nothing wrong with your Cav so all your getting is a shinny new car payment !!
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
Since you asked about the deal, they might. It depends upon which sales-shark you get, his quota this month, and how the dealership overall is doing... Your guess is a good as mine. But I would be brave and start the bidding at $12,250 or $12,500, especially if you really have the cash...
OTOH, if the 01 Cavy is running find and paid for, why bother? Like others have posted, what you're really getting is a new payment book...
I had the same issue last year about this time of year when I roached the trans in my beater Cavy... It was either slot into a new (or newer) car or fix the beater and enjoy the lack of payments...
The lack of payments won out. But I personally only go into debt for stuff I really need, otherwise, forget it. We (collectively) hold WAAAAAY too much personal debt, and we are suffering for it.
Take this advice from someone who's been there. Save your money.
George (geozinger)
'95 Sunfire GT-my second Pontiac from Hell!
'97 Cavy Beater-still running like a champ!
'04 Sunfire - my kid's car, but I get the bills...
'09 Pontiac G6 - Sport Package 1
Brian wrote:What do you think i can talk the dealer down to right now im at $14,000 out the door its a base ls with cruise, spoiler, and side moldings, the red tag was $13,585 i'm thinking i'm going for $13,500 or maybe walk in with $13,000 cash think i'd walk out with the car?
If the car is selling for 13,585, when you add in tax, title, license, and service fee. You are gonna be over 14,000 total. the red tag price is the price wiht all insentives and all rebates taken out. It is the botom line price of the car. If the dealer even goes a buck below that, they are gonna be losing money. Chances that htey will go below that are slim to begin with, although some dealers will go a little in the hole to put a deal together considering it is the end of the year. When i mean go into the whole, I mean maybe a couple hundred bucks. I highly doubt that you will get 13,000 as the selling price of the car. Your odds are bettter going for 13,500 as the selling price, but not with everything included. If you walk in with 13,000 in cash, that doesn't make a difference at all. Dealers don't want you pay with cash, they want you to finance. So if you come in with cash, your chances are not any greater than the next guy who is only coming with in 100.00 in cash.
GeoZinger wrote:Since you asked about the deal, they might. It depends upon which sales-shark you get, his quota this month, and how the dealership overall is doing... Your guess is a good as mine. But I would be brave and start the bidding at $12,250 or $12,500, especially if you really have the cash...
Doesn't really matter what sales person you get, and weather or not they have 100 cars sold for the month or weather they have 3 cars sold for the month. The salespeson does not determine the final price of the vehicle, you can comes to terms on an offer, but it still has to be accepted by higher authority. If all salesperson's made the price of the car, alot of dealerships would be goin out of buissness.
As far as offering 12,250 or even 12,500, you are gonna be wasting your time, they will laugh at you, or tell you to leave, ( in a nice way of course) becasue you are what is called an unrealistic buyer. Or having a champagne taste, but only living on a beer budget.
These are only MO, but I think you should take them into consideratoin if you do decide to go out and buy the car.
If you owe money of you trade in, and you are trading it in, you will not get KBB value. You will get lower than that. hope for 3,000, not for 4500.Dealers don't base trade in value off of KBB. Also it sounds like you might have some negative equity, so that will higher the cost of the new car also.
Good luck on your decision.
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=1&i=333805&t=333704#333805
RoNuS20 wrote:Don't do it.
All you're gaining from the new car is that it will have less miles than your Z.
It's not gonna have more power, and it sounds like you're gonna lose your power locks and power windows if you're going for the base cobalt.
The resale on a 100,000 mile Cavalier isn't too good....I say you drive it into the ground and save your money to get a better car.
But that's just my opinion.
I agree 100%
"Remember do what you like because you have to drive it."--Me
^^ these guys are right, its a lose-lose situation. unless u ABSOLUTELY want a new car to show off to ur friends that have dont have a brand new car. notice i said WANT, not NEED. unless theres something wrong with ur car, but u havent said anything about having problems
If you want to go for it, I say go for it. There may be a chance you can talk the dealership into $12,500 (especially if you have cash in hand) but I wouldn't count on it. Some dealerships (like in my area) will give an additional discount to those who can pay for the car in full right off the show room floor because it's a rare occurance, so never say never.
As far as it being a down grade as compared to an upgrade, that's just one person's opinion. If you want a Cobalt, then you obviously don't consider it to be one (down grade), even if you are shooting for the LS model.
Juicez99cav wrote:As far as offering 12,250 or even 12,500, you are gonna be wasting your time, they will laugh at you, or tell you to leave, ( in a nice way of course) becasue you are what is called an unrealistic buyer. Or having a champagne taste, but only living on a beer budget.
((James)) Icee Smooth Cavalier , did you miss this part, when you posted.....
((James)) Icee Smooth Cavalier wrote:There may be a chance you can talk the dealership into $12,500 (especially if you have cash in hand) but I wouldn't count on it.
You also missed this part,
Juicez99cav wrote:If you walk in with 13,000 in cash, that doesn't make a difference at all. Dealers don't want you pay with cash, they want you to finance. So if you come in with cash, your chances are not any greater than the next guy who is only coming with in 100.00 in cash.
When you posted..................
Quote:
Some dealerships (like in my area) will give an additional discount to those who can pay for the car in full right off the show room floor because it's a rare occurance, so never say never.
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=1&i=333805&t=333704#333805
Juicez99cav,
Contrary to what you may think or believe, I am not blind, therefore I did not miss your post. I read your entire message, and I still believe there may be a chance he could talk to the dealer into $12,500. Like I said the dealers in MY (if you had a dense moment and didn't catch that - as you know not all dealerships are the same) area will give customers additional discounts if they are able to pay for cars cash in hand, all at once. I've been there when it happened and heard salesmen talk about it.
Now as far as the $12,500 price...I believe it's possible and I'll tell you why. Last night while watching Spike TV, a commercial for the Red Tag Event ran featuring a Chevrolet Cobalt LS coupe (what this dude wants) and the red tag price that was listed (including all applicable offers) was $12,734 (which by the way, I pm'd the original thread starter this information), however that was just a base Cobalt with no options what so ever. Even at that, I just priced a Cobalt LS with all the options he wanted and the red tag price still came down $13,015 including all applicable offers...if you don't believe me, then do it yourself. If the red tag price is $13,015 who's the say that the dealership can't bend a little to reach his target goal? Hell at that, even if he can't get it at $12,500 he can take this information off of Chevrolet.com, take it to the dealership and tell them I priced this very same car with red tag pricing and it ended up being lower than what you have it and somehow in the end work a better deal if he so chooses.
I know you want to help this guy and that's cool, but don't act like you know everything because when you do, you end up helping no one in the end. I'm not trying to start anything, but when you but when you quote your own post like you did (in an attempt to say "hey my post is the right one and that's all that matters") you end up omitting ideas or suggestions that may be good or even better than the one you suggested.
My apologies if my post came off as harsh or rude, it wasn't my intention, I had a rather rough afternoon.
Still owing that much on your Z, I wouldn't trade unless it were an upgrade (preferably to an SS supercharged, personally I don't think I would be happy in the long run with the 2.4 SS).
'03 LS SPORT COUPE 5 SPEED black with teal/silver pinstripe
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