OK first off i just bought a 05 special value pkg cavy great car its a 5 speed what do they usally run in the 1/4 mile?I cant wait to do it legal this summer/spring around here people dotn give j's any respect at all but sometimes they give ecotecs respect but never my old twincam 2.4l.Anyways were should i shift? And weres the red line on the eco ?And what do u guys think of me getting new tires(with better traction) as one of my first new mods?I lokked up the stock tires on tirerack and they gave them a 6.3 dry traction thats not that great but r they ok for racing?were should i launch from?
darkblade j
red line is at 6600ish
as for most of the other stuff its going to be up to you.
if you strip out your car you can probably get a low 15 but i mean strip almost everything
id say high15's low 16's but thats my guess
as for launch rpm its going to be what you are comfortable w/
well slappy i have a 1sv so i have no options no sunroof no power locks no cruise no power windows no tilt.Just the doors alone feel so much lighter then my sunfire gt's they use too smash my leg when i sitting with my leg out the door wow that usta hurt!
darkblade j
I've been at the track a couple of times with my ecotec. Best I ran was a 15.5. All I have is a AEM cold air intake. I suggest trying out different launches. I usually slip the clutch at about 2500 or 3000 rpm. I shift just before redline in every gear. . I suggest getting the AEM CAI and the B&M shifter first. Good luck with it.
^ I wouldn't drop $200 for a 5 hp intake. Look for a cheaper intake. Also, the B&M shifter is going to give you minimal improvement(though, it does sit just right when you set your arm on the arm rest).
I think the most cost effective way to increase 1/4 times on these cars is to replace the factory exhaust. Maybe put in a $40 K&N filter in the stock airbox.
Yea i just ordered an ebay intake but what rpm should i shift were the redline really?
Were do u guys shift?
darkblade j
i shift at 6400 to 6500 rpm
ecopower
b and m shifter was the BEST upgrade i have ever done to my cavi. i droped my quatermile time (on gtech) from 16.4 to 16.0 and yes i know those are bad times but i am at over 2k altitude..... maybe next weekend i will go to the strip and see what i can do....
i have a 1sv 2005 5 speed cav as well. and it was my first time at the track this past weekend, i ran a 15.4 the first time out. all i have on my car is the rksport intake. hmm, i was shifting between 6000 and 6200, and launched somewhere between 3000 and 3500. and i also took out my system, and spare, and any other extra crap. but otherwise i had a full interior. i practiced on some back roads around my house just to get a feel for the launch, but it's a lot different when you're actually there.
hope this helps a little
good luck
I have a 2004 base 5-speed. With out nitrous I am getting a 15.4 on stock 16" chrome (i traded for the wheels). I have gotten a 15.2 on the stock 14" steelies, but im not sure if I had a few good runs or the 14"ers actually made it faster. Anyway my MODS are:
Ebay WAI w/ mesh filter w/ heatshield
2.5" catback exhaust
75 shot NX nitrous -do not have a time w/ the nitrous yet
A lot of weight reduction
Home made short shifter
Better clutch
I launch around 4500 on the street 2500 on the strip. I shift at redline (you can hear it better then you can see it --It screams). The best mod was the short shifter, 2nd was the WAI, I was not that impressed by the exhaust.
Hope this helps, I am going to try motor mounts next.
My sig....
Sunfires rule! (Tom) wrote:dan t wrote:i shift at 6400 to 6500 rpm
Whaaaat!
My redline is about 6250.
what your redline is at 6250? sucks for you lol
j/k but mine is at 6650ish
Thank you guysI have another question is the ebay short shift ok and how hard is it to install?
darkblade j
I was thinking about getting one of those too and I did some research on it. What I found out was that it wasnt much different from B&M except its not brand name and would be install like that one would. As far as easy IDK but i will do it anyways.
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Madjack wrote:Like I said before, building an engine like ours (2.2 or 2200) is a painstaking chore , since there is so few custom made parts. It's frustrating to me too, but that's what I like about doing this engine, it's the challenge.
Just cut the stock shifter down a few inches, and put a new shift knob on it. That works fine for me, if you do that and dont like it buy the ebay/b&m shifter and return the shift knob. You havnt lost anything that way.
My sig....
u dont want to shift at 6200rpm, u dont want to shift at 6100rpm, 6000rpm is the farthest you can go without losing torque. try it with shiftin at 6200 and then try it at 6000 and see wut your times are. and dont just dump the clutch off the line. you wanna slip it just a little bit. i launch at 3, thats for me. it may be different for you. when i ran the 9.83 completly stock in the 1/8th. i have alot more mods now and im hopin for a low low 14 in the 1/4
that would be the only way without losing power, unless you got the mods to handle it going past 6000rpm
also i would recommend the phantom grip, just as good as the quaife (limited slip) and only half the price. it helps alot trust me, especially with 60' times. i have my video of being stock and the video with the upgrades
^^^ slipping it like that wears out the clutch fast
nobody else has any comments on the Ebay Short throws??? Anybody out there have one 2 write a testimonial about it???
if it ain't broke...MAKE IT GO FASTER
i've got an e-bay short throw, it definitely made it shorter but not that much. i have never felt what the b&m shifter is like but i imagine its close to the same throw. i saved myself a 100 bucks so i think it was definitly worth it. it feels just as smooth as stock and a bit shorter. i would not buy it expecting a wrx style throw. it was a good investment though. the all aluminum shift knob looks good in the interior too. install wasn't bad, go on to b&m's website, you can download the instructions there. thats the one i used. overall for 50 bucks do it!
When changing gears in life, remember Find 'em, don't Grind 'em.
2003 Silver LS Sport Coupe 5-speed
b&m feels much better than stock
alot shorter thow
and made from steel instead of al like ebay shifters
Quote:
6000rpm is the farthest you can go without losing torque.
G.Little: I know theres much to be said of testing and tuning your techniques, but theorectically the best place to shift is redline, disregarding engine wear, etc. You have to compare gear ratios and the resultant torque that will be produced during each gear shift. You will see that just before redline(and AT redline), 99% of the time, you'll be putting more torque to the wheels than if you switched up to a higher gear. It's NOT completely about ENGINE torque. In practice your car (or your head) may like to shift a bit lower than redline, well thats fine and I applaud you for taking the time to hone your technique. But, theorectically, what you've been saying about shifting isn't universally true. Neither is what I'm saying, so I guess we both learned our lesson.
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<img src="http://home.nycap.rr.com/xenox/jbody/jbody_shocker.jpg">
mine is made from steel, the shift knob is polished aluminum...
excidium i'm confused
... are you saying that there is a difference between engine torque and wheel torque? because the way i was taught is that torque is a calculation through the horsepower, thats why they are always identical at 5250 so there is no difference...
i could be wrong though
When changing gears in life, remember Find 'em, don't Grind 'em.
2003 Silver LS Sport Coupe 5-speed
the gear box makes a big differance
because of the gear ratios
