I have a 03 cavalier ecotec that I dirt track race we rebuilt the motor did a minor port and polish and got 2nd place overall this year. next year were looking to do Alittle more internal engine changes and most of all get rid of the rev limiter (the only thing that kept me from win the points) car has a cold air intake and headers. possibly will do injectors and a tune but don't really know where to start.
You can't remove the rev limiter. You can raise it.
FU Tuning
basically what I meant just need to know how to do it. via tune was looking at ccw for there minor tunes? not to informed with tuning and what I should do to the computer to make the car faster, all I really need it the rev moved over 7k and possible fuel for bigger injectors. the car has stock internals with minor port and polish I did myself.
If this is a track only car than ditch stock computer and go full stand alone system , talk to the guys at zzperformance.com to see which stand alone system they recommend since the cavy with the 2.2 ecotec is very similar if not identical to a cobalt , regular cobalt not the turbocharged or supercharged . Look into hptuners if the stock computer system / sensors and wiring must be retained , it is a software to intstall in a laptop than a cord runs from the laptop to the obd2 port under dash where the steering wheel is, with the hp tuners software you modify the oem fuel /ignition timing / speed limit and rev limiter parameters and probably more but you are limited well at least more than if you would to remove the oem computer and replace it say with an aem stand alone managment system .
They questions is do you just wan't/ need a computer reflash / reprogram or a full race stand alone engine management system , the computer reflash is cheaper then the second option , and you don't even have to buy the software and cord what you can do is find a local tuning shop or a remote tuner or zzperformance that you can send your ecu to get flashed and they'll send it back with the rev lilimter raised , speed governor deleted a more agressive ignition timing curves if you have water mist injection or run 93+ gasoline etc etc ... different tuners charge different prices so look for some one that know what his doing and you should be good with a replash , also check with hahn race craft turbo systems and ask about tuning servives.
http://store.custombuiltmotors.com/engine-electronics/cbm-motorsports-22l-ecotec-stand-alone-wiring-harness-with-oem-ecm.html
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/most-common-stand-alone-ecu-for-ecotech-engine.89435/
some thing like this but its best to talk to them directly as Im just throwing ideas :
http://zzperformance.com/ecotec/electronics/zzp-1-0-pcm-22-24.html
Be sure and tell them you're not a tuner so they can steer you in the right direction . Good luck.
peformance parts for sale!! Click:
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/62265/
greatly appreciated I will def be looking it to and getting more advice for my set up! thanks again
Welcome , you will also wan't racing cams that are designed to kick in performance gains say after 4k rpms (if this is where you mostly operate when racing?) but they would not do much before that hence why they are called high rpm cams , racing cams. some thing like this ,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-CAMS-DOHC-Pair-Hyd-Roller-Camshafts-GM-EcoTec-2-0L-2-2L-Lift-436-262-/361435377816?hash=item54273a3098:g:sUEAAOSwbdpWU4~-&vxp=mtr
If you start to flow more air in the engine and out you might have to up grade your injectors , for this ecotec engine you can get the "stock" injectors of a cobalt ss superchaged which have a higher capacity fuel delivery that naturaly aspirated 2.2 cavy , sunfire and cobalt all these with the 2.2 ecotec engine 140hp. The cobalt ss supercharged (205 hp stock) are green tops i believe , and they bolt to the stock 2.2 fuel rail with not problems but you will need an adapter injector wire pig tail or conversion connector that can be bought for a few bucks each used.
As you know when change an injector that is not the oem the computer would start to act up , it happen to me i didn't know that a slight injector size difference the computer and fuel trims/maps get all out of wack if not tuned for the new injector , if your tuner did enter the new injector info and the car stalls or don't right chances is he is not sure what he is doing. If when all done the car must remain if it had stock injector idling smooth and get up and going with no stalls hick ups or cut offs , up and down like performance delivery = this is a sign of bad tuning.. Unless you have huge injectors like to support 400 lbs and up torque numbers , in that case there is a sacrifice in resolution a believe is called , in that case the car might idle rough with the huge injectors and whole different cams ARE installed but this would happen if you go all out racing not with slight or mild port and polish and street cams with slight higher flow rate injector , when i mean slight higher flow rate i compare to stock cc's to the new injectors cc's .
This book provides great info if you don't own one already.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Performance-88958728-Book-Ecotec-Engine-Handbook-22-Pages-Paperback-Ea-/390989768274?hash=item5b08ce6652:g:gWIAAOSwBahVAKjQ&vxp=mtr
peformance parts for sale!! Click:
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/62265/
Stock rev limiter is a fuel cut and can only be modified by using something like HPTuners or going standalone like megasquirt. I don't believe AEM makes a standalone for the j body cars.
You may not need bigger injectors with a mild tune but instead just get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set the fuel pressure higher with the stock injectors (60 psi vs. 43.5 psi at idle). This will net you some more top end fuel capacity with higher air flow.
But I would encourage you to ditch the factory ecu and use megasquirt or anything that is not alpha N tuning (this is what the stock ecu does)
Alpha N basically predicts fuel loading based on engine rpm and throttle open percentage. This is fine for a stock car but once you start to modify how much air the engine can ingest the ecu has no way to compensate. Basically right now with your intake, exhaust, and port work you are already running lean. You can fix this by bumping the fuel pressure a bit but you are still going to be leaving power on the table.
Doing it right would involve a Map or MAF ecu setup and a dyno tune
2.2 L Ecotec, P&P Head, Stage 3 Comp Cams, Supertech 76 lb Spring kit, Supertech Oversized Valves, Wiseco 8.9:1 CR Pistons, Eagle H-Beam Rods, Home-Built Turbo Kit T3/T4 57 Trim Intercooled, 78 lb/hr Racetronix Hi-Z injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Racetronix f body fuel pump,MEGASQUIRT MS3 + MS3X Finally street tuned on 21 lbs! Now if only I could get it to hook....
Wes Gardner wrote:Stock rev limiter is a fuel cut and can only be modified by using something like HPTuners or going standalone like megasquirt. I don't believe AEM makes a standalone for the j body cars.
You may not need bigger injectors with a mild tune but instead just get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set the fuel pressure higher with the stock injectors (60 psi vs. 43.5 psi at idle). This will net you some more top end fuel capacity with higher air flow.
But I would encourage you to ditch the factory ecu and use megasquirt or anything that is not alpha N tuning (this is what the stock ecu does)
Alpha N basically predicts fuel loading based on engine rpm and throttle open percentage. This is fine for a stock car but once you start to modify how much air the engine can ingest the ecu has no way to compensate. Basically right now with your intake, exhaust, and port work you are already running lean. You can fix this by bumping the fuel pressure a bit but you are still going to be leaving power on the table.
Doing it right would involve a Map or MAF ecu setup and a dyno tune
Your wrong on alot of parts. Our cars have timing and fuel limiters. Just in stock form the fuel limiter kicks in first. This can be adjusted.
Also A ecotec's stock fuel pressure is not 43.5, but around 58psi.
Alpha N does not predict anything. It adds fuel based on the tables in the tune which are RPM and TPS based. This is perfectly fine for a N/A car.
FU Tuning
