i relocated my battery into my trunk and know that i need a cutoff but is the cutoff suppose to cutoff the engine or just the battery


running rich? turn the boost up

just the battery


Erik Packard

If you want the engine to stop you need a switch with a second set of contacts to disconnect the alternator field. Otherwise it will keep running. It all depends on the sanctioning body and what's written in the rule book. It isn't always written.

Kenny "Poppop" Brown

Kenny for your saftey you need the switch to kill engine, why would you not? If you had an fuel leak and only killed battery and not alt and engine you could have a serious problem, very easy to wire , take your alt wire back to the battery side of the disconnect when it is switched off will disconnect alt as well as battery thus killing engine and fuel pump, just a thought in favor of saftey

would it be possible to run a wire to your ignition wires that lead to the fuse so you could stop the flow and kill it just like popping a fuse?


running rich? turn the boost up

kevin roskosky wrote:i relocated my battery into my trunk and know that i need a cutoff but is the cutoff suppose to cutoff the engine or just the battery

This sounds to me that you need a cut off just for the battery. How would you normally shut your car off? That shouldn't change just by placing your battery in your trunk? Unless I am missing something here? If this is a rule, post what it says and someone will give clear advice on what you can do!

Here is my battery relocation that I'm almost finished with if you'd like to check it out.
It shows how to do it properly with the electrical end of it which meets NHRA/ IHRA rules for complete shut off at the track.

If you're not going to track the car, you don't need a cutout switch but I would recommend that you have some kind of heavy duty fuse at the battery so that if you do get in an accident, the fuse will pop rather than the hot wire catching fire because it was cut by body damage.

And if you want to have the battery switch cut off the entire electrical system including the alternator, you'll have to reroute the alternator wire coming off of the alternator to accommodate the switches capability to shut it all down.
I routed the alternator wire directly into the cabin to the fused side of the hot wire and to the switch. On the other side of the battery kill switch, the hot wire runs back up to the front of the car with 12 volts to post under the hood and then having a wire dedicated directly to the starter so that everything works as is supposed to but still able to kill everything with the flip of the battery switch on the rear bumper.

Quote:

take your alt wire back to the battery side of the disconnect when it is switched off will disconnect alt as well as battery thus killing engine and fuel pump, just a thought in favor of safety.

This is exactly what I did but you have to make sure that your starter wire that went to the alternator is removed so that the starter is isolated from the alternator through the switch.

Anyway, good luck with it and hope you find enough information here in this thread to get you going with our battery relocation project.

Oh, and here's another battery relocation that I did on a friends SRT-4. Again, look through the pages and get an idea of what I did to make this install right for the sanctioning bodies that require for you to remove full power upon flipping the switch off.
Good luck.



Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

next time i go to the track i will make sure to ask, thats for all the help!


running rich? turn the boost up

Lannie Wineland wrote:Kenny for your saftey you need the switch to kill engine, why would you not? If you had an fuel leak and only killed battery and not alt and engine you could have a serious problem, very easy to wire , take your alt wire back to the battery side of the disconnect when it is switched off will disconnect alt as well as battery thus killing engine and fuel pump, just a thought in favor of saftey

I finally got around to changing the switch in my backup car and what you described worked just fine. My other car has the dual contact switch (more expensive) and it works too. Thanks for the suggestion.
Kennt

Kenny "Poppop" Brown