Well after having tuned the car a couple weeks ago i was able to go to the track finally. I didnt get a whole lot of runs in but I was able to pull a 12.866 @ 114.765 MPH with a not so great 60' of 2.173........... I just can not seem to get the BF Goodrich DRs hot enough due to my inability to keep the car in the water box long enough. I have the Baer brake kit and as most know the E-brake doesnt hold and or work at all with that setup. My only option at this point is to get a line lock for the rears and go from there. I was also having intake backfire then stalling in the water box on occasion due to methanol pooling in the intake during burnouts so even when i was able to get a half way decent heat to the damn tires it took a second to get her running again and then the tires cooled down, lol! So two things I need to invest in a line lock and second I need to wire a kill switch to the methanol so I can disable it during the water box. Over all the car ran great but during my last few runs I could no longer keep the transmission in second gear, not sure to the cause but I called it quits after that cause the track is a LONG way from home and I didnt wanna blow the transmission up. On the way home it was working ok but under WOT pops out of 2nd occasionally so I need to look into it. I was pretty pleased that the car was trapping the same as my friends Z06 whom was running 12.2 but was also pulling FANTASTIC 60' times of 1.7. Im pretty certain the car is capable of low 12s with street tires and possibly a better driver than I, lol. Not too bad for the first tuned track day though.
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
Good job!
12.770 @ 111.99 Intercooled Eaton M62
Just a heads up on the line lock. I run a line lock and you will need two kits. one for each wheel. our dist. block is goofy and each side of the master cylinder controls one front and the opposite rear. so you will need two. i put mine right in front of the gas tank but you could mount them in the engine bay if you wanted to.
My Sig Was To Big
BoostedEcos wrote:Just a heads up on the line lock. I run a line lock and you will need two kits. one for each wheel. our dist. block is goofy and each side of the master cylinder controls one front and the opposite rear. so you will need two. i put mine right in front of the gas tank but you could mount them in the engine bay if you wanted to.
Not to thread jack...
did you try hooking up a line lock to the rear output of the master cylinder that resulted in a one side lock-up only?
I'm looking at a diagram of the master cylinder now, and the way you describe the system working doesn't coincide with the diagram.
The chambers inside the master are
not the same size, which means the primary chamber gets more pressure than the secondary.. more pressure on one side? I don't think so.
Furthermore, routing it left side system and right side system makes no sense.. the whole purpose of a tandem master cylinder is to prevent complete loss of braking if you should spring a brake system leak, having one side function if the other side didn't would cause the car to pull in that direction if you ever had a failure in the other system and wouldn't make a shred of sense.
I think the distribution block/ proportioning assembly routes the fluid where it needs to go.
Again... did you actually PHYSICALLY hook up a lineloc to one output of the master cylinder which resulted in a one-side lock up? If so, please post up the details.
and to the OP, nice runs
i almost did until i traced the lines out and seen where they went. i thought the same thing you are. and it doesnt make only one side work it is oposite corners so if on half failed you would have lets say the right front and left rear still to work. not both right sides. it maybe different on the older cavs/fires but when i traced mine out thats how it was. mine is a 04. i do believe karo also told me about this before i did it.
My Sig Was To Big
idk, that still doesn't make much sense... different size chambers in the master cylinder usually means the primary chamber will get more pressure than the secondary per unit of pedal input. The way you describe it would make more sense, but still one front and the opposing rear wheel would get more pressure than the opposite wheels? Makes no sense, unless the diagram I'm looking at isn't correct (alldata)
yeah im not exactly sure. they may have changed it from different years.
My Sig Was To Big
well, that sorta sucks since I had incorporated the factory distribution block into my wilwood manual brakes conversion.. looks like I'll have to buy an aftermarket distribution block with proportioning valve now. oh well it'll get rid of the ugly hardlines anyways. thanks for the info man
sorry to get the topic so.. off topic. carry on
PJ no problem
California i am also sorry for getting off topic. I do hope this info helps you though
My Sig Was To Big
Nice times man and yes he's about .5 MPH slower than me
....for now!
It was a great night at the track and the 4 of us that went all got multiple personal bests.
For your burnouts whgat gear are you in? 1st I assume? Try shifting to second gear. This will allow the tires to spin faster to keep you from pulling the back tires. This will also allow you to get the tires hot enough for grip.
FU Tuning
no problem on the thread jack it was perfectly related...............
Actually yes i was doing burn outs in first to begin with, but then fstcav suggested my last few runs I do them in second which helped a ton but to my luck after my first burn out in second thats when I was having second gear problems. I wasnt dumping the clutch either so Im not real sure what happened. With the TQ the car is making its actually really easy to float the clutch into a burnout with little to no effort. I really wish I could have gotten a good run with a second gear burn out because the tires really seemed to hook when heated properly but as soon as I hit second it would just pop right back out so I never was able to see a good 60'. After the track I just started riding my motorcycle to work cause the weather is so nice right now but I took the car for a spin today and was unable to recreate the second gear problem so not sure what that was about..............with any luck driver error? i hope! thanks for the input guys. Hopefully next time i can shave a few tenths off.
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
Sort of sounds like a shift fork issue to me, but you can start in second gear (so you do not have to worry about the shift into second during the burnout). I know my nitto's love to be really hot as well. The second gear burnouts helped that alot for me.
FU Tuning
also just out of curiosity do you have poly engine and trans mounts. if they are stock the play in the motor could posibly pull the cables hard enough to pull it out of gear. Just and idea.
My Sig Was To Big
yeah i have poly mounts engine and trans, i have the REALLY hard trans ones cause I kept stretching the red ones too quick.
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
good job man 