I hope this is the right forum to post this in if not I'm sorry.

I bought the progress camber kit from gravana tuning, and the shims for the rear allow you to adjust the camber and the toe. I was thinking of -.5 degree for the camber, but I don't know what will give me the best handling as far as the toe goes. I know that in the front you want positive toe, but I'm not sure about the rear. Any recommendations would be very helpful.

Between -.5 and -1 degree of camber, and no toe at all should good. I think im running around -1 and no toe in the rear. Toe in at the rear makes the car stable and very hard for the rear to rotate at all, and toe out in the rear can make the car very unstable for everyday driving. That of course can be useful for autox, but I still don't recomend it. Negative rear camber generaly makes the car push and be more stable due to more traction at the rear. So whatever you choose, you might have to balance it out with other adjustments to get it to your liking.





13.934 @ 97.82 ALL MOTOR

......

guess after i get my purple car running right.. (im am goingt to throw my burner at brians head!!!!!) i will take the Z to work.


LOL

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

Any suggestions about the front?


Caution: I have an odd sense of humor, so don't be offended by the things I say
MMMM, HIDs

I would go with about a degree of camber up front. For toe, just get a smidge of toe out. Like very little. Maybe 1/16". That should be pretty good for a daily driven autox car.



Go Go OG Traction!!

The Evil J wrote:Any suggestions about the front?

As much negative camber you care (dare?) to run everyday. Up to a quarter inch of TOTAL toe out, but know that your sticky summer only tires will wear quicker this way. Caster isn't adjustable. A casual setting might be -1.5 degrees and no toe for someone who might only hit up one or two over the course of a summer. That can easily be done with camber bolt kits. Much more than -1.75 degrees you need to start slotting the struts.

Camber sort of depends on your spring/strut setup, but a good autox alignment will usualy start with at least -2 degrees on a mac strut setup. The stiffer your springs and sway bars the less body roll you get and the less negative camber you need to keep the wheel and tire from rolling over. I run approximately -2.25 on ground control coilovers/konis and eibach swaybars at both ends. Its acceptable based on pics and chaulk on the sidewalls to gauge tire roll over.



13.934 @ 97.82 ALL MOTOR

I run 0 toe and -1.5degrees of camber up front.

its the combination of toe and camber that wears your tires out. Camber on its own will not do thos. I have thousands of miles on my daily driver tires rotate them evety 2 changes and don't have problems with wear.

I wouldn't run more than -.5 in the rear.

Optimally if you feel up to it 1/8 to 1/4 of toe in the front is great to have at the autocross course but you shouldn't drive it like that all the time.

My preference
Rear: -.5 camber 1/16th toe out
Front -1.5 camber 1/8th toe out

I also have colivers and a front and rear swaybar. Your mileage may vary


-Chris

I wonder what a tire and auto service center would think if someone bought the lifetime alignment and then got the car aligned every saturday and monday?

IamRascal wrote:
My preference:
Rear: -.5 camber 1/16th toe in
Front -1.5 camber 1/8th toe out

I also have colivers and a front and rear swaybar. Your mileage may vary

Fixed that, don't want toe out in the rear


-Chris

What settings would you recommend for an almost dedicated AutoX car that sees very little street use?


What I am getting out of this is:

Front: - 2 camber 1/8" toe out

Rear: -1 camber 1/16" toe in

Would that be a competetive set up, tire wear aside?

Also for running in SP classes is there any restriction on how much you can adjust the alignment settings, and if so what is it?








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Street Prepared Auto-X doesn't have so much of a defined limit for settings, but does state what parts can be changed to make those adjustments. You never can set in stone what settings you will need because every car and course can call for different settings. If your car has soft suspension and a lot of body roll, more camber is needed to keep outside tire flat when car is rolling during a turn. But a lot of camber will wear the inside of tire on street and hurt braking performance to a small degree. The best way to find the right camber and air pressure settings for you is measuring tire temperatures immediately after a race. I am running 1 deg-/0" toe up front and 0 deg/ 1/16" toe in rear. My car does not have enough camber up front as it wears the outside during racing, but my car rotates so easily that I don't want any more front traction. This Cavalier is my wife's daily driver so it has a very street friendly alignment. The best thing for a dual purpose car would be camber plates that allow you to easily change camber at an event and then go back to street settings.