Is it usually the passenger or driver side axle?
from what I've seen the passenger side likes to go... I would assume its becasue of the unequal length. The passenger side is far longer
if thats the case im glad im rockin that 96 jackshaft deal so both my axles are the same
it doesn't mean they wont break, its typically the longer shaft is the weaker of the 2
Never broken one yet. Stock axles 115000 miles on them and i burn out all the time... Im hoping to break one soon
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090440
i've got a second gen, but i shattered my drivers side axle.....
14.84 @ 92.04mph
Outdated sig pic FTW!
How hard is it to replace them?
what i do is this -
jam a screwdriver in the rotor fins and remove the axle nut, then i pop the ball joint, and pull the strut assembly outwards, that way you can pull the axle out of the hub(if you break the outer joint it'll be easy enough to get out LOL). Then use your trusty pry bar to pop it out of the tranny. then put the new one in and reassemble.
I did this at the track, by myself, in the dark with only a maglite, in nice clothes, in 45 min, without getting any of the splattered grease on the aforementioned nice clothes. wasn't the most fun, but it wasn't hard, either.....
14.84 @ 92.04mph
Outdated sig pic FTW!
gmanz24 wrote:if thats the case im glad im rockin that 96 jackshaft deal so both my axles are the same
that just means the torque being transferred through the jackshaft will rip the bracket off of the block instead of letting the axle break
At least Chrysler 2.2/2.5 turbo cars were known for that.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
with the gravana coilovers, I can change an axle in about 15-20 minutes
the bottom part that connects to the knuckle can be unscrewed, letting you maneuver it and change it out pretty easily.
I broke my drivers' side axle last year.
So basically, you unbolt it from the bottom of the strut and pull real hard to get it out of the transmission?
To reassemble, you shove it back into the transmission and rebolt it to the strut? It's that easy?
well, pulling on in *might get it out of the tranny, but it more likely to pull the joint apart and rip the boot off, leaving you with a big hunk of metal still atatched to the tranny that you have to use your prybar to get out lol. better off using the pry bar in the first place. never, ever just pull on a good axle, it will destroy the joint. but yes, then you just push it back into the tranny, you can usually feel like c-clip click into place....
14.84 @ 92.04mph
Outdated sig pic FTW!
man.... my break was REALLY clean compared to the rest of these
Wheel hop is what destroys axles not sub 200whp motors, the Hahn Sunfire is a prime example of what you can do if your properly set up at the drag strip, that car has a ton of passes on stock axles at well above 300whp with no issues, simply put they know how to set up and race a car which if you know how you wont have an issue, theres been several postings in regards to this topic
If your breaking axles you need to investigate your own driving habits
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
i know exactly why mine broke. Aside from the fact that it's a crappy aftermarket replacement(smaller dia. shaft than stockers) i inadvertantly launched the car almost exactly at the torque peak, just a hair over 200lb/ft, in a 2900lbcar(approx) with some sticky-ass drag radials. guess that says something good about my clutch though hehe
i know now better than to launch above more than about 2500 rpms
14.84 @ 92.04mph
Outdated sig pic FTW!
Rodimus Prime wrote:Wheel hop is what destroys axles not sub 200whp motors, the Hahn Sunfire is a prime example of what you can do if your properly set up at the drag strip, that car has a ton of passes on stock axles at well above 300whp with no issues, simply put they know how to set up and race a car which if you know how you wont have an issue, theres been several postings in regards to this topic
If your breaking axles you need to investigate your own driving habits
X2
Mine and Brian's are both the stockers
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Rodimus Prime wrote:Wheel hop is what destroys axles not sub 200whp motors, the Hahn Sunfire is a prime example of what you can do if your properly set up at the drag strip, that car has a ton of passes on stock axles at well above 300whp with no issues, simply put they know how to set up and race a car which if you know how you wont have an issue, theres been several postings in regards to this topic
If your breaking axles you need to investigate your own driving habits
I agree completely.... Wheel hopping, burning out while the steering wheel is turned (i know a lot of people who seem to think its cool to peel out in big smoky burnouts while making a 90 degree turn... note that there is infinitely more stress on the CV joint while its articulated than when it is straight), all of these will put an end to axles quickly. All of the guys on the 1.8T forum bitch about how "weak" their axles are, I've seen at least 20 guys break axles making less power and torque than me, with worse 60' times, and I have yet to break one. And when I first got into modding this car I literally put over 200 passes on it within the first year, burning out in the box and hard launching every time.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Quote:
If your breaking axles you need to investigate your own driving habits
it happens to those of us who actually launch the car
I've felt wheel hop before.. this must have been so violent it just exploded.. as soon as I caught 2nd gear and nailed the gas pedal all I heard was a loud ass boom and after coasting to a stop, the skwirl wouldn't move under its own power anymore.
had about 100k on those axles, and I'm still on the junkyard axles I bought to replace them.
admiral:
to change the axles on the skwirl, this is what I do.
1) break lugnuts loose on offending side
2) jack up car and support with jackstands
3)remove wheel
4)remove fender lining as necessary
5)break driveshaft nut loose (jam big screwdriver into brake rotor to hold everything so you can loosen it)
6)unbolt strut mount *
7)loosen coilover lock nuts *
8)unscrew bottom of coilover from shock assembly *
9)IF NEEDED disconnect brake line to allow knuckle to maneuver out of the way
10) tap driveshaft out of knuckle with a hammer then muscle out
11) use a prybar or large screwdriver to pop out of differential
12)install driveshaft in diff then slide into knuckle
13)reattach strut assembly to bottom of coilover
14)bolt the strut mount back into place
15)tighten everything up
16)reinstall and tighten driveshaft nut (150ft-lbs)
17)put wheel back on and drop car
*denotes gravana powergrip coilovers only (bottom sleeve is threaded and able to be unscrewed from the strut assembly). doing this prevents messing up alignment altho ride height will have to be reset
i'd imagine it's a little more difficult in a car with non double ride height adjustable coilovers.. you'd have to remove the 2 big bolts on the knuckle which will kinda screw up your alignment
I haven't broken one yet in the last 5 years. Last year I was making over 400wtq @ 2000rpm and I was launching from 2500rpm and still didn't break one.
Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132
it's pretty easy; i had to change a boot a while back. The Skwirls setup would make it super easy to not mess up the alignment but pulling the axle can be done without screwing your alignment. It's kind of a PITA but you can take the endlinks off for the sway bar (both sides) and rotate it down for clearance, then after everything else is unbolted (strut mount, tie rod end, ball joint, caliper, rotor removed, bearing assembly removed), and ready to come out push down (stand on it or something) the CA so the ball joint clears the spindle and the spindle/strut assembly will come out as one peice with the axle still in the car.
Think about this.... if you dont have ENOUGH power it would be easier to break a axle as the tires are less likely to spin causing wheel hop.... Wheel hop is from the tires spinning too slowly.
maybe im just crazy....
But when i broke my axle i was launching at 4500 rpms on a lane that JUST had been sprayed with VHT with super stick drag radials. So idk....
There is not just one factor that destroys an axle. All the afore mentioned conditions are reasons why. It's funny because no matter what you do on a pass, you still wear the axle out, its just some things damage them faster than others. IMO, the best way to save axles is to drive correctly.
For examples:
1. No one wheel burn outs! Not only will it destroy the differential, if the car does hook and pulls forward, the whole weight of the car is on one axle. The burnout is the time to be very aggressive, take all of your anger out there.
2. Do not side step the clutch. I can speak personally with this one. The infamous axles that lasted for hundreds of passes finally broke the first time out in 07 because i was unaware just how much of an "on-off" switch our new multi disc clutch was. That being said, it is ok to slightly slip the clutch, staged clutches are designed to take that kind of abuse.
3. Wheel hop hurts EVERYTHING. Wheel hop is brutal on axles, suspension, differential etc. etc. If you feel the car wheel hop, just get out of the gas and sacrifice one pass. It's not worth the time, effort and money in breaking parts. You can still salvage the pass to get tuning data if you want by letting out of the gas, let the car get back on track and then finishing out the pass. It won't give you your best time, but it does salvage the pass some what.
But if you notice, like many said before, its driving skill. If you want more power than stock, keep the stock axles in. It's a good way to learn how to drive a car initially and if they break, its time to get new axles anyway.
hope that helps.
To answer the initial post, we broke our driver's side right at the spline for the hub.
Street-Legal 2003 Sunfire 10.58 @ 139 MPH
I agree 100% on NOT sidestepping the clutch. I "slip" mine out when i launch as well.
