Hi all I'm new here and new to j bodys. I have helped work on a few over the years but I'm going to be getting a 92 Cavalier wagon next week if everything goes as planned.
The car is in overall good condition but has rust on the rockers (around here its a shock of the bottom isn't rotted completely away on these cars from what im finding) and has 103k miles on the 2.2L and auto trans.
This is an abs car and the brakes are not working hardly at all and I suspect the goofy abs master cylinder is bad. I'm hoping maybe I can just grab a non abs master and redo the lines a bit to get it going.
Otherwise it runs like a top and hope it will be a good little car for me.

Hi and welcome to jbody

You can delete the ABS, but it takes some planning and the right tools.
Here are links on doing it.

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/brake-line-layout-t80563.html
Shows how the lines run for both ABS and non-ABS.

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/bubble-flare-question-t132513.html
Shows a great little Cal-Van tool and how to modify it to make perfect bubble flares. Ignore the first post, as I did not get the tool I spoke of in it. Go down to the 3rd for an ebay link to the Cal-Van tool and also a YouTube video that shows how it works.

You'll also need a small tubing bender, if you do the bending with the lines on the car. There a lot of room to work around, so a small bender is a must. I didn't get a picture of the one I used, but here is a link to it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-4-quarter-inch-tube-bender-94571.html

You can unpin and remove all the ABS wires, if you so choose.

Take your time and all should work out well.

Can't edit post here, so I need to make a correction.
'There isn't a lot of room to work around'

Oh and while I'm here. You'll notice my tubing isn't as neat as it could have been. I cut the lines a little longer than what would have been ideal. Seeing this, maybe you can do a nicer looking job.

Just a different thought about your idea.I would suggest just removing all four wheels and do a good inspection of the brake pads and rear shoes.Checking the obvious things like the slide pins on the caliper sticking,rear wheel cylinders leaking and or the components in general are worn out front and or rear.I think the idea of the master cylinder being the problem prior to doing ANY work is not the correct approach to addressing the problem.In my personal opinion when the braking system is not up to par in most cases it is just the wear out items that need attention and not necessarily the major components.I am trying to save you some time and money as I would focus on the simple first.I have not once had a car have a failing brake master fail versus the actual brake components in years.Just my take.R

butch nackley I was under the impression that the fittings that go to the abs were the same size as the non abs master so all that needed done was bending lines into place. Are they infact different size?

I do have a tube bender as its been more than once I've had to replace brake lines.

Ron Love the reason I suspect the master is because the car had its brakes services before a road trip and by they time they made it back the car barly stopped. I took a look andfound no sign of leaks and pads look good. I pulled the cap off the master and had a friend hit the pedal and saw no movement of fluid (in my experence the no movement is normaly a bad abs setup or bad master)

Brian Berg wrote:butch nackley I was under the impression that the fittings that go to the abs were the same size as the non abs master so all that needed done was bending lines into place. Are they infact different size?

I think one of them is the same, but I don't remember which one it is though. I just changed all of them. NAPA had them all in stock. I took the new non ABS master cylinder with me and they matched up the flare nuts for each outlet. They didn't cost much either.