Hey guys, I’m new to the forum, but not to J-body cars or cars in general. I’ve had a Cavalier on and off again for the past six years, and this time I want to do some real mods and make some real power. I’ve only done simple bolt ons before, so following through with this parts list is going to be exciting. I’ve run up and down the different threads to find info specific to what I’m trying to accomplish. Here is what I’m working with and my goals for the build. Any feedback would be great, thanks.
My goals, parts and mods list for my 96 Z24 Cavalier. It’s the LD9 2.4 motor with the 4T40E 4 speed auto trans. First of all, here are my goals.
I want to stay under $10,000 for the build.
I want to run a 75-100 shot for drag racing at the track.
I want at least 300 crank horsepower.
I would hope to get in the 13s in the quarter mile.
I want it to be comfortable to drive as my daily driver, so I will not be running nitrous on the street.
Parts list and mods:
Engine
secret cams (maybe), alum pulleys, motor mounts, MSD DIS-2 or MSD retard module-jegs (retard timing -3), forged pistons & rods, arp main and head studs, iridium spark plugs-2 colder (need a current part number), 62 mm throttle body, ported intake manifold, valve work (need suggestions), true cold air intake (not ram air), 2.3L oil pump, and wet nitrous kit (75-100 shot, blow down tube, bottle heater, WOT switch, purge kit and fuel pressure safety switch).
Exhaust
Custom header, high flow cat, 3 inch tubing throughout, and a high flow muffler (not decided on muffler yet; flowmaster 60 series, magnaflow, borla, suggestions?).
Gauges
Auto Meter Ultra-Lite gauges as follows: MPH, RPM, trans, oil, water, fuel, volts and nos. Three of them will be on a 3 pillar pod, and the rest integrated into the factory gauge space in the dash (custom dash plate).
Fuel
Walbro 255 fuel pump. I need bigger injectors, but which ones (just need some good info)? I have some venom injectors in mind, but I’m open to suggestions. I plan to run at least 91 oct fuel.
Suspension/Wheels
2 inch drop lowering springs, 300 hp rated axles, strut and sway bar upgrades, 17 inch ADR wheels wrapped with 215/45/17R tires.
Trans
Trans cooler, trans mount, modified automatic shifter (they stick up way too high stock; ugly).
Questions
Is there anything anyone would add or suggest to do differently? It’s a 96, so should I update the ecu from a 97+ Cavi? What would be the best set up for me concerning a head? Port and polish with a valve job? What are some opinions on removing a/c for a little added power? Is it worth it?
2004 Cavalier Sedan
I want to run a 75-100 shot for drag racing at the track.
A 100 shot is probably not going to get you 300whp, even with a built motor. Most NA build motors only get 175whp at the most. Complete well thought out builds no more than 200whp.
I want at least 300 crank horsepower.
I would hope to get in the 13s in the quarter mile.
That being said. You can run 13's with a 100 shot fairly easy.
I want it to be comfortable to drive as my daily driver, so I will not be running nitrous on the street.
Running Nitrous is dumb and illegal in most states for street use.
Parts list and mods:
Engine
secret cams (maybe), alum pulleys, motor mounts, MSD DIS-2 or MSD retard module-jegs (retard timing -3), forged pistons & rods, arp main and head studs, iridium spark plugs-2 colder (need a current part number), 62 mm throttle body, ported intake manifold, valve work (need suggestions), true cold air intake (not ram air), 2.3L oil pump, and wet nitrous kit (75-100 shot, blow down tube, bottle heater, WOT switch, purge kit and fuel pressure safety switch).
You can do all the time stuff with HPTuners. You probably will not need a 62mm TB, with out larger cams than "secret cams". I would not go with over sized valves, since this has killed low end, and you'll need a lot with that 4T40E trans. With a 100 shot you want a RPM window switch, and probably a progressive controller.
Exhaust
Custom header, high flow cat, 3 inch tubing throughout, and a high flow muffler (not decided on muffler yet; flowmaster 60 series, magnaflow, borla, suggestions?).
I would get a 4-2-1 header, and not a 4-1 header. Maybe run a cutout for the track...
Gauges
Auto Meter Ultra-Lite gauges as follows: MPH, RPM, trans, oil, water, fuel, volts and nos. Three of them will be on a 3 pillar pod, and the rest integrated into the factory gauge space in the dash (custom dash plate).
What ever makes you happy, but make sure you have a GOOD QUALITY WIDEBAND!.
Fuel
Walbro 255 fuel pump. I need bigger injectors, but which ones (just need some good info)? I have some venom injectors in mind, but I’m open to suggestions. I plan to run at least 91 oct fuel.
I would run a racetronix W-body fuel pump. It is cheap, pretty much a direct plug-n-play, and is a re-badged Walbro 255 pump. You'll need to calculate the correct size injectors for 300HP, and you'll need a larger injector for the wet shot.
Suspension/Wheels
2 inch drop lowering springs, 300 hp rated axles, strut and sway bar upgrades, 17 inch ADR wheels wrapped with 215/45/17R tires.
i wouldn't run a two inch drop, because your lower a-arms will be below horizontal. Like this..... O\_/O You want your lower a-arms to be parallel to the ground like this. O--_--O. Eibach Pro-kit accomplishes this very well. I would run KYB AGX sturts with the springs. This is a very good reliable setup. Also, you want lightweight rims & tires for racing. Those axles will fail fast with daily driver use / street use.
Trans
Trans cooler, trans mount, modified automatic shifter (they stick up way too high stock; ugly).
You may need to "build" the trans, and get somesort of LSD and a high stall converter. Look up "4T40E rebuild" in trans forum.
Questions
Is there anything anyone would add or suggest to do differently? It’s a 96, so should I update the ecu from a 97+ Cavi? What would be the best set up for me concerning a head? Port and polish with a valve job? What are some opinions on removing a/c for a little added power? Is it worth it?
First look up how to swap from your 96 harness to a 97 harness, so you can tune with HPTuners.
I would do the 97 swap first. Then do the suspension, and brakes. If you can not put the power to the ground there is no use for more HP.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
A J just ran a 12.7 with 245whp.
So power is not always needed.
FU Tuning
