I've created an Excel spreadsheet to keep track and forecast the amount of money I will spend on my car over the project's build. I've divided it up into "Stages" and picked parts I think would be the best buy for the money. I've spent a lot of time researching on the forums, so if you see anything you disagree with, please advise me. I'm still very much a noob, but I'd like input.

Goals for the car:
- Faster, better performing daily driver
- Higher Quality parts - hopefully more reliable than stock

- On to the project list:

Stage 1: Basic Necessities $150, plus Car Alarm/Window Tint
- Car Alarm
- Window Tint
- Optima Yellow Top

Stage 2: Interior and Sound $2,244.20
- AutoLock 4 Door Kit
- CarPC
- Pioneer TS-A4670R - 3 way front speakers
- Pioneer TS-A1681R - 4 way rear speakers
- Polk MOMO C400.4 4 Channel Amp
- Polk MOMO C500.1 Mono Amp
- Lots of Dynamat

Stage 3: Suspension and Brake $4,508.00
- 18" RacingHart CR Silver 1pc.
- Hankook Radial K106
- Tein Super Street Dampers with PillowBall Mount
- Eibach Front/Rear Sway Bar Kit
- DCSports Front Strut Bar
- RKSport Rear Strut Bar
- Baer 12 inch Front Brake Set
- Baer 12 inch Rear Conversion
- Wilwood Stainless Steel Flexline

Stage 4: Engine and Drivetrain $4,445.65
- Nology Power Coil Amp
- Hyperground System S-Type
- Stage 3 COMP Cams from GravanaTuning
- Eagle Forged H Beam Rods
- Wiseco 8.9:1 Forged Pistons (Stock Bore)
- ARP Head Stud Kit (Car Customs)
- Competition Intake/Exhaust Valves 1mm+ (CarCustoms)
- Pacesetter Armor Coat 4-into-1
- Magnaflow CarSound OBDII 2.5" Hi Flow Cat
- DCSports Stainless CatBack
- RKSport Oil Cooler
- RKSport High Flow Intake
- RKSport Upper and Lower Mounts
- RKSport Crank Pulley
- 62mm Throttle Body Mod
- Stage 2 Performance Axle
- Autotrans Interceptor

Stage 5: Exterior and Paint Undecided

Total Project Cost atm: $10,947.85

I should note that I have not selected a valve train replacement or new head and main studs. Also, not calculated is the AutoTrans Interceptor. The Exterior stage hasn't been determined, as I'm not sure where I want to go with the car. Anyways, advice/input is welcome. I can use it.

All that and no drop springs?

Very nicely laid out. Well planned.

just get air for suspension other than that sounds good.

Not a bad idea, but your prices are off, and you can save some money and get better results.

1) An optima yellow top battery cost about $180 usd.

2) Vibrant front AND rear strut bars cost $100 together, plus shipping and handling

3) You can MAKE your own hyperground system, for $30 or buy my Ultraground set for $75

4) Dynamat is to overly expensive, there are other brands that are equal or better for much less money. Ex. Fatmat is $150 shipped for 100 sq ft. Dynamat and dynamat extreme are near $200 to $300 not shipped.

5) Instead of the RKSport Oil Cooler, look up B&M oil coolers. They work great and less then half RKsport price.

6) Instead of RKSport High Flow Intake, considering every aftermarket intake is high flow as opposed to stock, you can save alot of $$$ buying a Bomz, or another knockoff brand which performs the same as the high priced ones, your just paying for the brand name.


7) Competition Intake/Exhaust Valves 1mm+ are not worth it unless you intend to boost are use a radical cam swap.



BTW you gonna spend about another $100 just on wires, rca's, fuse, fuse block, terminals, etc.

sounds like a plan. but make sure you do your research and search for the best price around before going diving into something. dont want to get in over your head



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

I'd hold off on the rods and pistons, you wont really need them until you run boost, plus you will be dropping the compression ratio, so you might actully lose a bit of power.I'd spend that money on a fuel system upgrade, (pump,injectors, adjustable regulator) you'd see better gains from that if you plan to stay naturally aspirated.

El Fuego: What is the quality on "Vibrant's" front/rear strut bars? I know DCSports and RKSport both make a good product, so I want to make sure Vibrant is a solid company. I wasn't aware of other companies that make sound dampening material, I'll check out the Audio forum, or if you would like, you could list other brands here for me to check out (like FatMat). Also, I'll check into the B&M Oil Cooler. As for the intake/brand name argument, some part of me does want the brand name. I can sort of justify paying for it, since I'm insane.

Yellow Rimmed One: I'm going with Tein Coilovers - not a fan of the air suspension, just...not for me, I guess. I really love the look of a slammed car, but I don't think I'd like to mess with air just yet

99redz24: Thanks, I intend to get as far over head as I can.

Jeff: Good advice, thanks. The Excel Spreadsheet I have lists about 5 or 5 different brands/parts with prices, I picked 1 for each part I needed (I had 7 choices for Air Intakes, as you can imagine). The prices seem to be the best for the part, considering.

The ultimate result is to add a GM Supercharger (or the RSM offered one, whichever is better when the GM Super is finally available) to take advantage of the cams, improved fuel system, and valves. I need to recalculate the list minus the valves/cams, since I forgot to think about boost.

Thanks for the comments, please keep them coming!

Quote:

The ultimate result is to add a GM Supercharger (or the RSM offered one, whichever is better when the GM Super is finally available) to take advantage of the cams, improved fuel system, and valves. I need to recalculate the list minus the valves/cams, since I forgot to think about boost.

Ok now we hear the big word, supercharger

With that said, I would hold off on building your motor just yet and do the supercharger first. Why? Because the Supercharger is the source for making the power, not your motor anymore. Also, what people tend to do is spend all this money on rebuilding their motor and all it does is delay getting their primary source of power. I personally wouldn't want to work backwards as far as boost goes but in reality I somewhat did and I regret doing so.

Get your main power source (your supercharger) then work from it because it can only go uphill and if for some reason (god forbid) you're short of funds, lose your job or whatever and you can't afford say pistons, you still have a high horsepower 4 cylinder car that can handle what you're throwing at it.

Also, if you're going to boost, you might want to invest in some forced induction camshafts which I would highly suggest doing AFTER you're boosted.

The oversized valves are nice to have but you are going to have to spend some extra cash to have them specially machined into your cylinder head.

Since you have an automatic you don't many options of upgrading your transmission unless it's custom done but in reality, you don't need to change anything as it can handle plenty of power. Only thing I would suggest doing is adding a Transmission Cooler. Look up the Hayden Transmission coolers...they go for about $28-30 on ebay, that's where I got mine.

You don't really need an oil cooler...our alluminum blocks (ECOTEC) don't have as much of an heating issue with the oil like the 2.4s for example.

I doubt you'll be making that much power to where the axles are going to break...especially since you're an auto, you're not going to be dumping a clutch at a 5 grand launch. If you want to get it for insurance, that's up to you but it's not necessary.

If you're going to upgrade the front brakes, do the Big Brake conversion (13" rotors come with them and better pistons and calipers). With those, you won't really need to do a rear conversion unless you want to.

1 more thing, you forgot what headgasket you're going to get cause you'll need one as soon as you remove your head....get a Cometic MLS Head Gasket.

If I think of something else, I'll post it. Any questions, just ask.



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

That Thing Got An Ecotec? wrote:El Fuego: What is the quality on "Vibrant's" front/rear strut bars? I know DCSports and RKSport both make a good product, so I want to make sure Vibrant is a solid company. I wasn't aware of other companies that make sound dampening material, I'll check out the Audio forum, or if you would like, you could list other brands here for me to check out (like FatMat). Also, I'll check into the B&M Oil Cooler. As for the intake/brand name argument, some part of me does want the brand name. I can sort of justify paying for it, since I'm insane.

Well i have no complaints from Vibrant, nore do i hear any from anyone else. The quality is great.

Also a piece of advice since it may only cost you $40. When i did my sway bars, my stock control arm bushing went a week later. This seem to be a common issue, So while your doing all your suspension work and it all apart, It might be wise to change over to poly control arm bushings. I believe they are engery suspension bushings. YOu can get them at any other the major jbody sellers like gravana.

i think you got a great plan set but dont set your goals too high. alot of people have all these plans and then once they get into the work they see all the stuff thats involved

[quote=ßãggéÐÇåv98 (Ûñqùðtäߣè Øñé)]i think you got a great plan set but dont set your goals too high. alot of people have all these plans and then once they get into the work they see all the stuff thats involved

Very true. I myself have a decent paying full time job and am still working on my car for the past 2 years...it's not easy.



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

Stage 1:
-sufficient, you could just ground the BIG 3 and avoid the need for a yellowtop, your not running enough wattage to neccesitate the need for a yellowtop, unless you plan on running the stereo for long periods of time without the vehicle running.
-I'd hold off on the car alarm till you do the stereo install, I havn't even isntalled a car alarm in my vehicle yet and probably never will.(I also live in a save area)

Stage 2:
-if your getting car pc you might as well just front the money for an eclipse headunit and call it done. Pioneers are nice speakers but if your fronting the cash for the Polk amplifiers I'd set aside the extra cash for some nice speakers, like boston acoustic, alpine, etc...

Stage 3:
-I'd reccomend 2 addcos in place of the eibach kit then add a rear tie bar per events build instructions. You'll have a much better handling car, and with the money you'll be spending on the superstreets you don't want to cheap out anywhere!!
-I highly reccomend the DC sports strut bar, I have it, and I didn't have to mess with anything to install it such as relocating stuff because it is made for the ecotect, so if your like me not having to bother with moving the PCM is worth the extra cost. Get a cheap rear bar off of e-bay or a vibrant from gravana, less than $50.00.
-Because most of your braking is done by the front of the car anyway, you may find just getting the wilwood brake fronts and doing the neon conversion on the rear will be more than sufficient for your needs, and save a little cash.

Stage 4:
-don't waste your money on the forged rods and pistons unless you'll be turbocharging the car. There are currently no supercharging systems for our vehicles that would need that kind of hardware.
-spend that money on the hptuners software instead.
-the hypergrounding kit is a waste of money IMO, unless you want if for the bautification process. In that case buy a couple feet of colored amp power wiring from cardomain(can order it by the foot) the apropriate size ends and do it yourself for less than 1/2 the price.

Stage 1.1I added this one )
1.) Get to know the companies that support J-bodies. Gravana Tuning(Jim), Car Customs(Karo), A+ Performance(Jason), Team Vision Racing(Hypsy) (sorry if I missed someone). Every one of these people will be more than happy to help you out and answer any questions you have about parts, they'll also gladly sell them to you.

2.) It's good to see that you have a good start by choosing actual quality parts that won't break on you or hinder your progress.

3.) Your already on the right track to modifying your car. Goodluck, and welcome to the addiction.

4.) J-body people although helpfull get very angry if you ask a quesion that's been already answered so learn to use the search button A LOT.


-Chris

IamRascal wrote:-I'd hold off on the car alarm till you do the stereo install, I havn't even isntalled a car alarm in my vehicle yet and probably never will.(I also live in a save area)

Stage 2:
-if your getting car pc you might as well just front the money for an eclipse headunit and call it done.
-Because most of your braking is done by the front of the car anyway, you may find just getting the wilwood brake fronts and doing the neon conversion on the rear will be more than sufficient for your needs, and save a little cash.

Stage 1.1I added this one )
1.) Get to know the companies that support J-bodies. Gravana Tuning(Jim), Car Customs(Karo), A+ Performance(Jason), Team Vision Racing(Hypsy) (sorry if I missed someone). Every one of these people will be more than happy to help you out and answer any questions you have about parts, they'll also gladly sell them to you.

4.) J-body people although helpfull get very angry if you ask a quesion that's been already answered so learn to use the search button A LOT.

Car alarm is priority #1, there's no changing that. I simply don't trust the other 5 million people around me. Locked doors don't prevent the engine from being hotwired...or however they're stolen. I don't care. It's top of the list.

The CarPC will have a 200gb hard drive (I will not publicly discuss how much media I currently have) - my question is, how does an Eclipse head unit differ? Can it hold 200GB worth of MP3s? As for the brake kit, I'd like to have a good set of brakes on the back, not just stock rear discs from a Neon. I understand I won't NEED it, but then again, I don't NEED to do any of this to my car. Thanks for the suggestions!

Lastly, Karo has been a big help in explaining all I'll need for the engine stuff. I intend to supercharge, and as such, I'd feel MUCH more comfortable with improved valvetrain, pistons, rods, and head studs. I won't be running much boost, but it's a comfort issue.

Thanks for your suggestions, I'm modifying the spreadsheet to include all I've learned. I'll repost an updated cost sheet when I've incorporated everything!

That Thing Got An Ecotec? wrote:

IamRascal wrote:-I'd hold off on the car alarm till you do the stereo install, I havn't even isntalled a car alarm in my vehicle yet and probably never will.(I also live in a save area)

Stage 2:
-if your getting car pc you might as well just front the money for an eclipse headunit and call it done.
-Because most of your braking is done by the front of the car anyway, you may find just getting the wilwood brake fronts and doing the neon conversion on the rear will be more than sufficient for your needs, and save a little cash.

Stage 1.1I added this one )
1.) Get to know the companies that support J-bodies. Gravana Tuning(Jim), Car Customs(Karo), A+ Performance(Jason), Team Vision Racing(Hypsy) (sorry if I missed someone). Every one of these people will be more than happy to help you out and answer any questions you have about parts, they'll also gladly sell them to you.

4.) J-body people although helpfull get very angry if you ask a quesion that's been already answered so learn to use the search button A LOT.

Car alarm is priority #1, there's no changing that. I simply don't trust the other 5 million people around me. Locked doors don't prevent the engine from being hotwired...or however they're stolen. I don't care. It's top of the list.

The CarPC will have a 200gb hard drive (I will not publicly discuss how much media I currently have) - my question is, how does an Eclipse head unit differ? Can it hold 200GB worth of MP3s? As for the brake kit, I'd like to have a good set of brakes on the back, not just stock rear discs from a Neon. I understand I won't NEED it, but then again, I don't NEED to do any of this to my car. Thanks for the suggestions!

Lastly, Karo has been a big help in explaining all I'll need for the engine stuff. I intend to supercharge, and as such, I'd feel MUCH more comfortable with improved valvetrain, pistons, rods, and head studs. I won't be running much boost, but it's a comfort issue.

Thanks for your suggestions, I'm modifying the spreadsheet to include all I've learned. I'll repost an updated cost sheet when I've incorporated everything!

steps back and claps.......i nominate you for newby of the millenium, and not in a bad way. bravo sir, bravo

LOL thanks...I just want to make sure hard earned money isn't wasted on cheap products...after all, it's an economy car, so I realize it's not going to be Ferrari level - I just want to pretend it's Ferrari level

Anyways, here's the updated cost sheet. This covers everything I will eventually buy. Stage by stage, I'll buy everything pretty much at the same time...pretty much.

Note: I still have no valve train replacement, main studs, or head. Also, these prices do not include labor or shipping.

Stage 1: Basic Necessities: $670-800
- Clifford Remote Start Car Alarm $400
- Window Tint ~$120
- Optima Yellow Top $150

Stage 2: Interior and Sound: $2525.20
- AutoLock 4 Door Lock Kit
- CarPC (see below)
- Polk Audio MMC5250 Component (Front/Rear)
- Kicker Comp VR (4 Ohm)
- Polk MOMO C400.1 (4 Channel Amp)
- Polk MOMO C500.1 (Mono Amp)
- Misc. Sound Deadening Material

CarPC components:
- Ampie Car PC Case
- Epia M10000 Mini-ITX
- Rosewill 1GB PC2100
- Creative SB Audigy2 ZS 24bit
- Maxtor 250GB 16MB Cache
- Panasonic Slotload Slimline DVD/CDRW
- Opus 90W PSU (DC-DC)
- Lilliput 7" Touchscreen


Stage 3: Suspension and Brake: $5,724
- Rims: RacingHart CR 1 PC 18"
- Tires: Hankook Radial K106
- Coilovers: Tein Super Street Dampers w/PillowBall
- Eibach Front/Rear Sway Bar
- DC Sports Front Strut Bar
- RKSport Rear Strut Bar
- SSBC Front FX2 Big Brake Kit (Aluminum Calipers)
- Baer Rear Conversion Touring 12"
- Wilwood Stainless Steel Flexlines

Stage 4: Engine: $7,758.65
- Valves: Competition Intake/Exhaust Valves +1mm
- Cams: Stage 1 Cams from TurboTechRacing.com
- Rods: Eagle Forged H-Beam Rods
- Pistons: Wiseco 8.9:1 Forged Pistons, Stock Bore
- ARP Head Stud Kit
- TB: 62mm
- Supercharger: RSMracing Stage 1
- AutoTrans Interceptor
- MSD High Pressure Inline Pump
- DC Sports Stainless CatBack System
- DC Sports Ceramic Coated Header
- Magnaflow CarSound OBDII Hi-Flow Cat
- RKSport High Flow Intake
- RKSport Upper/Lower Engine Mounts
- RKSport Crank Pulley

Stage 5: Exterior: $1,465
- VIS Invader C/F hood
- RSMracing C/F trunk lid
- Z3 Style Fenders (Fiberglass with C/F overlay) - if anyone can point me in the direction of nice carbon fiber fenders (true C/F) then please IM/email me.

Well, that's everything I have so far - the only thing I'd bitch about is that I don't have the LS body kit prices, I'm waiting to hear on them (I may not go with a body kit at all). Anyways, I'd really like to hear your thoughts on my plan. I really will be doing the plan in this order, if you'd like me to justify why, just yell at me