here is is for u 02 guys. if u have an 03+ eco, u can use the same FPR that the 2.4 guys use, this is for the 02 people only.
i used an aeromotive FPR with that, for some reason thats the only pic that doesnt seem to work right now, ill work on gettin another pic of that <br>
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/vegacavy9396/personal_pic.jpg">
how'd you do that? explanations please LOL <br>
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
damn, i didnt even think about doing somthing like that (at least i think i know how you did that). basically you found a way to plug up the end of the L850 rail (pronounced L eight fifty) into a feed and return.
or did you just make the system returnless? if you just made it a returnless system, im going to try what i said above since i can get blue prints of the fpr.
let us know
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hmmm...
I cant imagine needing an FPR for a low boost application, right? Just bigger injectors?
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ok here is what i did. my stock FPR was crap, if u remember last week i posted a pic of it all cut apart, this is why. i cut off the very bottom of the regulator, took all the insides out, had a fitting attached, and drilled it out.
for the factory return i just threaded the hole where the line goes through to 3/8. cut a bolt so it wasnt to long, and put this in its place. the reason i threaded that hole instead pf using some kind of plug on it is because i dunno what size it is, bigger than 3/8 and smaller than 1/2. so i figured 7/16, but try to find a plug or cap that size.
if u wonder where i got the idea from - they had a race motor sitting out at the bash, their fuel system is somewhat the same as what i did. i cant find a good pic of the rail, but its kinda the same idea.
i felt the FPR was needed because the car runs rich all the time with the bigger fuel pump and injectors. i was running pretty rich at 10psi with the fmu turned all the way down. that FPR will reference boost on a 1:1 ratio. dont have the fmu hooked up anymore.
i am still waiting to tune it because of the car running so rich i killed the sensor for my wide band. it stoppped reading and i pulled it out and it was pretty black. <br>
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/vegacavy9396/personal_pic.jpg">
do you have better pics and maybe a little more detailed instructions?
"had a fitting attached, and drilled it out." what kind of fitting and what did you drill it out to?
also where can we fond the FPR and maybe a part number?
im not trying to be a jerk...
im just saying this so when someone looks for this post they can find all the info they need <br>
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
How does the 2.4 reg work on the ECO? Bolts on? <br>
2006 Cobalt SS I/H/E ZZP S2 HPT 2.8/60's Etc...13.8@105(I need to learn how to launch)
^^ 03, yes.
i used a 3/8 npt to -6, we ended up not threading the regualtor since there really isnt anything to thread. i believe some company makes a weld on fitting also, so u could just use that.
the 3/8 threads were cut off of the fitting, then it was brazed onto the regulator. not sure what size bit i used to drill it out, but it was the largest one that fit through the hole in the -6 end.
the fpr is from aeromotive. part number AEI-13109 it has a -6 AN inlet and outlet. 3 ports, u need an o-ringed plug fitting to block off the other port.
summit racing sells the regulator for $131.95. i looked elsewhere to find it cheaper, but nothing really worth it after shipping cost, when i can drive 45 minutes and be at summit. <br>
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/vegacavy9396/personal_pic.jpg">
nach.................. is this the best thing u got to post? a fuel rail?......... man yer fulla cheese dude jk neat mod cant wait to see it at the next neo meet and stuff
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Shush Weasel..i want my shirley temple
cool <br>
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
nachotec, im taking your idea a step further (thanx btw
), im workin on two ideas now. here are some pics of the first idea (it calls for a slight mod in the rail, the second will not.)
notice anything different?
1/4" npt
stock o-ring
side by side comparison
stock look
note that this is a prototype, I am already tweaking it out a little. I will keep you all updated. thanx again nachotec for the idea. <br>
thats awesome! You guys could sell "kits" for this and I know people would buy them so that they dont have to bother doing it themselves <br>
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
dammit...thats cheating. haha, i wish i woulda had one of those fancy lil parts like u got there.
paco u should sell them and give me 30% haha. i knew something like that would come out sometime. the one u have looks exacly like the one GM uses on the race motor, good work <br>
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/vegacavy9396/personal_pic.jpg">
hey paco... if you dont make them to sell to people could u throw one together for me? Ill buy one. And with your permission ill have some duplicated and sold at cost to help the ecotec J's
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
the trick is getting the fuel rail the way i have it now. obviously the one im using wasnt completed (hence the missing tube in the middle) the fuel rail is scrap. im working on trying to get atleast a handful so i can work some magic.
nachotec, dont worry, i'll look after you if things go through. we'll see what happens though. here is an update on the prototype.
as you can see the only real difference are the flats. by putting these on, the housing can now be gripped with an adjustable crescent wrench and the respectable 6-point wrench can grip the fitting. before i up the flats on i was scarring the housing. dont forget though, aluminum is still soft and im pretty sure the housing could still get jacked up from people not taking their time and using the improper tools.
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Brandoson wrote:hey paco... if you dont make them to sell to people could u throw one together for me? Ill buy one. And with your permission ill have some duplicated and sold at cost to help the ecotec J's
if things dont work out, you and i can work something out to help out the community.
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haha thanks for thinkin of me.
i dont see any real problem with using it with the tube in the center. all it does anyways it connect the FPR to the return to let fuel flow back. the rest of the fuel in the rail goes around the tube to the injectors. at least thats how i figured it worked when i had it apart. with the return line blocked off, i imagine it just fills up with fuel because it has nowhere else to go.
the tube in the center is just taking up space, it doesnt seem to be effecting anything though. the only problem i see with it is if u needed to flow more fuel and it taking up that space for the extra fuel. <br>
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/vegacavy9396/personal_pic.jpg">
NACHOTEC wrote:haha thanks for thinkin of me.
haha, if I were thinking of making a profit I would include you. I'm not out to make money of this or anything. I was saying if you 2 didnt market it then I would like to duplicate it for everyone who wants one. I would buy a little set if you guys sold them. <br>
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
im not really concerned with making money off it or i would have never posted pics. if i had the tools and resources to produce parts like that i would think about it.
if GM would have a part numer for the ones off the race motor then this would have never really been such an issue. they have most of the other parts listed for the motor, but that one. <br>
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/vegacavy9396/personal_pic.jpg">
psst.... update
it had babies. the one on the right most edge is the original.
quick changes, and probably the last changes:
-notice that there is a lip around the ID of the adapter. this is so the fitting can fit deeper into the housing. i could actually probably go another quarter of an inch. but then again im already running thin with the flats reduced to an even metric size of 16mm vs. 11/16". so it is at the edge for the depth of the lip.
-still 1/4", i know it's bad to mix metric and english... but eh who cares as long as it works
-notice that the threads dont go all the way through this time. the last time was actually a mistake by the machinst (and me
for not putting the starting point of the threads on the prints)
-i wont know the strength of the inner wall of the adapter till it is tested out in the field. but i doubt that 40 to 60 psi will cause it to crack.
-dont know what alloy it is but assuming 6061-T6:
Yield strength : tensile 37ksi compression 37ksi shear 19ksi <br>
very nice... you rock!
what was the problem with it being bigger than 16mm?
as long as it doesn't crack like you said it'll be ok, but isn't strength more important than ease of install?
I may not know what im talking about so correct me if im wrong.
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
well, with as much torque as i was putting on the fitting and adapter it did just fine. aluminum is fairly strong (as you can see from the numbers i put up). i would like to be the first to test it to make sure; but i think it should be just fine.
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