Holy @!#$, the valvetrain must of been swimming in oil...thats crazy.
newt wrote:Ben Wenzel Jr wrote:he he he
YES i do have a set of those europe cams 
.. and YES they have WAY more duration and a bit more lift than those Comp Stage 3s.
My setup just to remind ya: GM P&P L61 head, L61 Block, LE5 crank, L61 Rods, Europe Cams, Ferrea Springs, Undercut SS Valves, Wiesco Custom Pistons, Tuned "bird catcher" intake, Custom Tuned Exaust, Built 4t453 tranny, etc etc
well for most of you know my engine blew up on the dyno at 9100 rpms, and in 2nd gear only 8000 rpms it did aprox 180whp on a mustang dyno, yes i said 2nd gear .. no 3rd gear recorded runs 
im saying all of this not to get your hopes up but because my cavy will prob sit a few more years cuz .. i just went out and bought me a NEW 2011 Chevrolet Silverado instead
but im still here .. i need a sponsor
-Ben
Is your GM P&P cylinder head as it came from GM? From what I've read it is just a simple CNC in the intake ports and thats it, I've read it doesn't flow the greatest. If thats the case I wouldn't be suprised if that head is holding you back....just some food for thought.
Was the rods in the bottom end stock or aftermarket? I'd be curious to know what ended up letting go.
I will have to do some more reading and playing around with desktop dyno to see what I can do for cams. Then call Comp and see what they can do to help me out.
I will figure this out.
my GMP P&P eco L61 race head came ported from the factory on both the intake and exhaust side...when i took it to my machinst to look at he was like amazed at how great it flowed
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
The Jew wrote:newt wrote:Ben Wenzel Jr wrote:he he he
YES i do have a set of those europe cams .. and YES they have WAY more duration and a bit more lift than those Comp Stage 3s.
My setup just to remind ya: GM P&P L61 head, L61 Block, LE5 crank, L61 Rods, Europe Cams, Ferrea Springs, Undercut SS Valves, Wiesco Custom Pistons, Tuned "bird catcher" intake, Custom Tuned Exaust, Built 4t453 tranny, etc etc
well for most of you know my engine blew up on the dyno at 9100 rpms, and in 2nd gear only 8000 rpms it did aprox 180whp on a mustang dyno, yes i said 2nd gear .. no 3rd gear recorded runs
im saying all of this not to get your hopes up but because my cavy will prob sit a few more years cuz .. i just went out and bought me a NEW 2011 Chevrolet Silverado instead
but im still here .. i need a sponsor
-Ben
Is your GM P&P cylinder head as it came from GM? From what I've read it is just a simple CNC in the intake ports and thats it, I've read it doesn't flow the greatest. If thats the case I wouldn't be suprised if that head is holding you back....just some food for thought.
Was the rods in the bottom end stock or aftermarket? I'd be curious to know what ended up letting go.
I will have to do some more reading and playing around with desktop dyno to see what I can do for cams. Then call Comp and see what they can do to help me out.
I will figure this out.
my GMP P&P eco L61 race head came ported from the factory on both the intake and exhaust side...when i took it to my machinst to look at he was like amazed at how great it flowed
Really, huh I always heard they never really flowed the best....I guess I could be wrong tho.
newt wrote:The Jew wrote:newt wrote:Ben Wenzel Jr wrote:he he he
YES i do have a set of those europe cams .. and YES they have WAY more duration and a bit more lift than those Comp Stage 3s.
My setup just to remind ya: GM P&P L61 head, L61 Block, LE5 crank, L61 Rods, Europe Cams, Ferrea Springs, Undercut SS Valves, Wiesco Custom Pistons, Tuned "bird catcher" intake, Custom Tuned Exaust, Built 4t453 tranny, etc etc
well for most of you know my engine blew up on the dyno at 9100 rpms, and in 2nd gear only 8000 rpms it did aprox 180whp on a mustang dyno, yes i said 2nd gear .. no 3rd gear recorded runs
im saying all of this not to get your hopes up but because my cavy will prob sit a few more years cuz .. i just went out and bought me a NEW 2011 Chevrolet Silverado instead
but im still here .. i need a sponsor
-Ben
Is your GM P&P cylinder head as it came from GM? From what I've read it is just a simple CNC in the intake ports and thats it, I've read it doesn't flow the greatest. If thats the case I wouldn't be suprised if that head is holding you back....just some food for thought.
Was the rods in the bottom end stock or aftermarket? I'd be curious to know what ended up letting go.
I will have to do some more reading and playing around with desktop dyno to see what I can do for cams. Then call Comp and see what they can do to help me out.
I will figure this out.
my GMP P&P eco L61 race head came ported from the factory on both the intake and exhaust side...when i took it to my machinst to look at he was like amazed at how great it flowed
Really, huh I always heard they never really flowed the best....I guess I could be wrong tho.
yea my machinist was shocked how well it flowed..... he has a flow bench at his home shop and ran it before we did a valvetrain swap.....he said he didn't need to touch any of the porting on it at all
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
look forward thou to these custom cams you plan on doing
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, October 06, 2011 2:04 PM
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
I kinda thought there was a street head and a race head from the gm racing line. Would explain the discrepancies.
OK im here
First off the GMR head comes in 2 versions i believe, the first one is a bolt on Race/Street version (part number ending in 19 i believe) and the second one i "think" has the head studs bored to accept 1/2" studs and "o ringed" for the GMR race block. Second i "think" the cnc machine is the same cut in the head, now out there somewhere is the flow chart for this head, I choose this one over the patriot head flat out i could get a better deal, and/or cuz i really didnt know much about that head.
ok now on the oil pressure issue: i also had a 0-100psi oil pressure gauge in my car that i watched ALL the time. with my stage 3 cams and 8200 rev limit it would barry the needle, but... it would never go back to zero. now on the Dyno with the europe cams and 9000rpm revs the needle would barry itself then jump to zero then back to 100+ then back to zero. So i thought the gauge was bad, cuz at idle it would range from 60-70ish, but my idle was about 1800-2000 rpms. so we made some 2nd gear unrecorded up and downs to check Air/Fuel and oil pressure. it would also jump from 100+ to zero so we just didnt watch it anymore thinkin it was bad
well youve prob all heard by now yup lost oil pressure and spun out the #4 rod berring witch then heated up the rod then broke the rod bolts then jamed the piston sideways up into the cylinder then threw out parts of the rod forward and down. and then discovered the rod was on fire in hot oil under the car. done
other damage, the NEW LE5 crankshaft that i had lightened ballanced and hardend (mmm prob $1500ish into it) now has 2 huge goudges in it from when it caught the rod. need a block, pan, girdle, 4 new valves, a set of custom pistons, new rods. and then throw in a dry sump setup too
well im tired of typing cuz im slow, any more questions just ask
-Ben
wow ben when you blow something up... you blow something UP!
any updates man?
I need a new sig.
Was the motor and trans taken out and put back in together or bolted up once in place in the engine bay?
Heyyy IM HERE !!
oo its been some YEARS since updating and lots of life in between
sooo where do i start .. well the tight group of fellas i chat with know 98% of whats going on but for the 3 of you that dont know ive made some HUGE progress
starting from the bottom UP another custom oil pan thats rotated 7deg forward (explained later)
Girdle/Block is standard but the current plan is 88.5mm bore with 98mm stroke for 2.41L with 14.1 compression
Head is a LSJ with professional port job (RET Racing Engine Technologies)
Cams as of now are .499 lift 266 duration (guessing 9400 ish peak rpms) but very possible going to get them regrind to a 630 lift 260 duration (for a bit lower peak say 8600)
Intake is a custom ITB setup (as of now) using 4 stock 58mm TB lots of engineering with that
Transmission is a 4t65e HD that has the GM horseshoe with custom solid mounts along with a 5000 4t65e torque converter
Exaust i havent decided exactly what todo yet if im going down like normal or go out the hood
Computer i have 2 choices go with a stock setup P11 and limit my rpms to 8192 or i have a NEW MegaSquirt Ultimate Pro yes is probably the best choice
Car is the same ole same ole red 2004 1SV cavalier that has been garage kept all these years ready for a comeback !!
ok now your up to speed for now, more to come
see ya soon
-Ben
Overall Best times
60\' - 1.857 (6/24/07)-(Drag Radials 205-50-15)
330\' - 5.552 (6/24/07)-(Drag Radials 205-50-15)
1/8 - 8.644 (7/25/08)-(Hoosier Drag Radials 225-50-15)
M.P.H. - 82.05 (4/20/08)-(Hoosier Drag Radials 225-50-15)
1000\' - 11.229 (7/25/08)-(Hoosier Drag Radials 225-50-15)
1/4 - 13.410 (7/25-08)-(Hoosier Drag Radials 225-50-15)
M.P.H. - 104.95 (4/20/08)-(Hoosier Drag Radials 225-50-15)
** ALL MOTOR **
* 193whp @ 7600 rpm *
* 149 tq @ 5100 rpm *
Website: www.benwenzeljr.com
2005 GM Small Car Bash - Lost 2nd rd - H2 Class
2007 GM Tuner Bash - Runner Up - Broken Pressure Plate
2008 GM Tuner Bash - Winner - by default
2009 GM Tuner Bash - #6 in the Q8 (2008 ponitac solstice)
