thank you .. still kind of dirty but i just walked out and poped the hood and took some pics...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Looks great! Hows that header workin out w/ the charger?
Car is for Sale!Supercharger kit is for sale!
thank you
I love it.. i dont see why people said it was a @!#$ty header???? granted it felt like i lost a bit of low end torque, but i gained soo much upper end over stock... so for all of you who said the RK sport header was @!#$ty i think your wrong and i have had no problems at all with it.
Also i know people said it sucks cuz the 02 sensor is in one of the tubes.. which is way wrong.. its after they have all come togeather...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
nice man, im doin alky injection after my bottom ends built in a few weeks, got a link to the smc alky injection kit cause on their site all i see was a grand national and wrx alky injection kit.
Sweet, I have my kit, just need to install it. How big is your tank?
amazing! i love that header too, i would give up lower end for more upper any day. makes me anctious for the eco charger to be released!
wont the eco charger have a option to have a liquid cooling plate? like wont it be two parts? even if that is the case i would still put this on... it cools it down HUGE!!!! amounts like ice cold after 10+ hard runs
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Hmm, I need more info on this, where did you buy it from? Also what kind of alcohol do you put in it? And how often do you have to refill it? And it only injects it through the intake pipe when boost is applied? Not sure exactly how it works. Really want it for my car just from what I hear, just need to learn more about it.
http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
Thank you ...Chris Fontana you have a pm...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Chris Fontana wrote:Hmm, I need more info on this, where did you buy it from? Also what kind of alcohol do you put in it? And how often do you have to refill it? And it only injects it through the intake pipe when boost is applied? Not sure exactly how it works. Really want it for my car just from what I hear, just need to learn more about it.
I need that same info.Nice ride BTW
SunfighterGT wrote:First off, great install in terms of functionality. Can't beat besting the heat-soak problems the GM charger has.
I do have complaints though. I realized you said you know the engine bay is dirty and that's fine... if you drive it, it must get dirty.
BUT - with that said... it's a visual mess. I don't know if you're into looks or all but here are a few tips to visually clear that up and a few safety things:
- The loom running to what seems to be your alarm horn... cover it in black loom and run it up along the firewall weatherstripping. GM sells clips that usually hold the cruise control module wires up there. It takes away the red/green line goign along there that pulls your eye back there and covers it up and keeps it safe from the heat of that header.
- Use black zip ties, the white ones stick out badly.
- Paint any brackets you've made to either match the car or just be dark and unseen
- The random blue loom is a mess. Takes your eyes all around the engine and not in a good way.
- Run the wires by the brake booster UNDER the brake booster. Lots of room there and it takes away the visual mess right in that area.
- Make a real bracket for your clutch fluid reservoir and as mentioned before paint it dark and mount it nicely on the firewall.
- Zip tie your wires together, loom them and run them all in the same direction... basically clear up everything around the bottle and run it nicely straight down and then where it has to go.
- Why does that line coming out of the bottle have to be so long and wrap around the bottle? If it's not for function's sake I say shorten it up and clean it up some.
- Last but not least, run your throttle cable brackets under the booster, around the bottom of the bottle and have them come up under the tray. I know the cruise line is a bit short so see if you can run it right under the fuel rail lines so it can pop up under the power steering pump and not be so in your face.
These are all just tips if you want to clean it up. If you don't care then ignore them! What matters is it works and you're happy with it, I just figured I'd give you some advice since a lot of people don't really know how to make things look as neat as possible under the hood while maintining functionality, safety and accessibility.
Good luck
-Chris
ahaha where to start............
the blue wire loom was just stuck in place for no reason at all.. it was on my buddys turbo Grand am....
the steel braided line and black tub on the alcohol kit it that long since i had to guess on how long i would need since i didnt know where exactly i was going to mount it.. and i didnt feel like cutting it up and such....
alot of my clean up will be done this winter when i get free time.. i do plan on cleaning it all up no worries... and the throttle cables can only go in some places with out being bent and what not..
and yea over all i am not to worried about looks... clean is all i ushally am worried about ... as in no grees/dirt all over..
but i will take all your comments into consideration and try and work things out..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
ok well a few of you wanted some info on the kit.. i did the best i could for now... let me know if you want more info...
Well the pump will start to spray at the psi of boost that you set the controler too.. You can fine tune this as a light comes on when it is spraying so you can check at what the exact psi is on your gauge and go from there... generaly if i am racing i have it set to come on at 4psi but for just cruzing around i have it at like 6psi... keep in mind you can quickly and easly tune this while your driving so if you come across some one who wants to race you just reach down and turn the dial...
Benifits are VERY VERY cold supercharger after bagging on it hard time after time and still haveing the power there with no heat soak/power loss.. like its as if you had your car sitting out side all night on a winter day... but all the time even after driving it.. Plus the higher % of alcohol you have in the mixture the more is raises your octane of your gas. And it will steem clean the internals of your engine, keeps them like new basically and with the cooler air coming into your engine its makes it easier on your engine/supercharger even at higher boost levels..
Some people will tell you it will strip the teflon off your rotors.. but i read 100's of topics on this with other cars and emailed people and talked to people and NO it will not harm it in this way.. it will over time but we are talking like 100,000kms+ and thats using it all the time...
With the SMC kit i have. you can use Windsheild washer fluid, water, a mix of both, or even mythonal you can get this at a hardwear store... but be carfull and do not let it touch your skin as it is very toxic..
The controler you mount inside the car comes with an Armed light saying its on, has a spray light telling you when its spraying.. and a low fluid light..
You can also adjust what psi you want the pump to start spraying and another dial to choose the psi you want the pump to be at its max... so its not coming on full out right away...you can have it like that if you want though.. but you go threw soo much alcohol then and some times bogs the engine down with out little 4cyl. engines..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
oh and i got it from SMC
here is the info on the universal kit i got...
http://www.rjcracing.com/SMC_Alcohol_Injection/smc_alcohol_injection.html (the controler and tank are a bit different but you get the idea)
and here is the main site...
http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.html
call them and ask for the universal kit.. let me know if you do, and if you are going to mount it like mine and ill tell you the hose lengths you will need
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
NOT FAIR!!!!!!!!!!!!
nice man, simply amazing!
"Remember do what you like because you have to drive it."--Me
mine is still hot as hell with or without it, id need a dyno to really even tell
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
oh man.. im jealous
-marc
gettin blown @ 6psi daily..