I plan on paintng my interior blue, not the entire dash but like the heat vents and etc.. basically everything that is plastic is gonna be painted blue, what the best, easiest, and cheapest way to do this?
take them out, prime them, spray paint them with Duplicolor's vinyl,fabric, & plastic paint.
Lance Sharpe wrote:take them out, prime them, spray paint them with Duplicolor's vinyl,fabric, & plastic paint.
Um, kinda.
If you want you can take them out, CLEAN THEM, and then use Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric DYE
Or you can take them out, CLEAN THEM, and use the krylon fusion stuff (the stuff for the plastic)
After that, I would reccomend putting on a coat of clear, especially if it's the krylon stuff.
-Seth
The best methods are to take them off, clean them, sand the hell out of them with multiple grits (starting with usually 80 and working your way up to 300+) for a smooth finish, prime them, and paint with the spray paint of your choice. Usually people tend to work with the Krylon Fusion cause it "adheirs" to plastic "better". However, if you prep your piece properly and prime it, you can generally use anything you want. I painted my interior with Duplicolor Metalcast and it turned out awesome. Its a blue with silver flec (sp?) inside and shines like fiberglass and is as smooth as glass. Like I said, it all depends on how much time and prep you are willing to put into it.
Or, you can read the FAQ above on how to paint your interior. Whatever works
Quote:
I painted my interior with Duplicolor Metalcast and it turned out awesome. Its a blue with silver flec (sp?)
i did the same it looks killer. did you use the duplicolor metalcast primer too? i found out the hard way you need there primer and not the $4 stuff. but after repainting it looks great.
http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/my2005cav/my%20car%20the%20bash.jpg
Yup, I used the whole 9 yards on it. Their primer, paints and clear coat. Their primer is hard to work with, and you need to wak away to get fresh air every few minutes cause those fumes just build up quick as hell, lol. Looks great when your done though
Team Ethnix Painting How To
let me know if that helps.....
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98' Pontiac Sunfire SE
I wasn't going to add much untill i seen the above post. Yes it was informative however it has its flaws. I have worked it bodyshops almost 16 years now Cars, Trucks, Boats Etc. The beat ways to paint it would be at a bodyshop...Right tools for the right job However Were looking for the nicest job on a budget right?
Number 1 the above post shows someone spray painting a piece with the can at 45% Do this and you run the risk of the spray can spitting out paint and messing up what you worked on
Always try and hang up what your working on that way you can spray thw "whole piece" without trying to move it. And have the can facing upwards. Outside painting is ok i tend to cut out one wall of a cardboard box tack it to a wall hang the part inside it and paint ....theres no wind and no dust from the floor!
with plastic dash part i'd start with a 120 grit just to get rid of the "veins" on top of the plastic ,,if you find your sanding and sanding with little results drop a grit to 80 but once its gone go back up to 120, then 180. make sure its automotive sand paper not wood yes theres a diff! wood sanding paper clogs up quicker and leaves deeper scratchs
after that wash the part of oil and dust. mild dish soap works or even vinager and water followed by baking soda and water ..why wash it there was no oil around??? were you holding the parts??? theres oil in your hands that will mess up a primer/paint job
You can buy Primer/ filler spray can and or paint made for plastics if you want a color made the same as cars you would need a automotive paint to match right? Then you'll need to buy primer/ filler If you want a basic color blue red etc and other colors offered by Dupli.color plastics paint then primer might not be needed if the part has been sanded all the way to a finer grit ..say 400-600 wet baby smooth
When priming / Painting use light coats don't paint the whole thing on one shot ! allow the paint to breath and dry alittle dusting as we call it you can still see the under color wait 5 mins avg. then hit it again lightly and then a 3rd or till your happy read the can it should show this ... i myself if i wanta show room part will do 5 light coats then let dry 24hrs then wet sand with 600 grit and 800 then clean and add 1 paint coat or just clear it 2/ 3 times
The post above also said some where about using steel wool?? thats great if your washing dishs i never heard of steel wool on anything else
However we do use Red and gray scuff pads made for 3M FOR "Automotive use" they work great for plastic and gel coats on fiberglass
As for using a haynes repair manual for autobody nooooooooooo! It's ok for the basics but There are new updated Haynes manuals for "just" autobody and airbrushing etc that will show you the how too's even on the internet and my fav ..Search on j-body read up on all you can don't just read mine and the other guys... read everyones and come up with what you think work for you !!! hope it helps Jimmaaaay!
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/4235/jim25ek.jpg
your first post was very basic, i went above and beyond... and because it wasnt automotive paint in a booth hung from a coat hanger, etc etc... it has flaws? Painting on top of a piece is always bad, drips from paint build up on the can, splatter from the wrong angle.... spray cans mess up, its the nature of doing something cheap. And It just happens the pic is like that. I did say do trials on plain cardboard and to start off the piece for a reason. People need to figure out some of it on thier own, and i believe they can.
steel wool works, try it... how can u knock on something u havent tested
theres nothing wrong with cleaning more then you have to, its better then finding something in the paint later
primer makes it easier, not everyone wants to sand for days on end... theres nothing wrong with it. primers good when not using something like fusion
anyways, everything you suggested is correct... it just bothered me that you post a very uninformative post, and then i post and u come back and offer a critique
i will tweak mine tomorrow though, thank u
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98' Pontiac Sunfire SE
maybe i should update that... you just have a mouth on you dont you. Im in the military, USAF... thank you very much
and since you wont listen to me,
wool 0000 is used for things like polishing paint and wax to a high gloss finish
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:29 PM
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98' Pontiac Sunfire SE
If you are just spray painting it, definitely check out the writeup I did. It is great for giving you all the materials that you will need, along with a general guideline of what you will want to do. I suggest adjusting the process to what works best for you.
Wide Body Progress
thank you to everyone for their help, i just finished painting everything this morning, pics will be up very shortly.
0000
BUFFS FURNITURE WAX - RUBS OUT A HIGH LUSTER FINISH
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^ Thats from the site not my words look it up ....
The only way i would use steel wool is for over spray on a windows with soap and water
Its not that I'm not listening its just you got back up what your saying!
There's sand paper for wood and metal for a reason The same go's for wax's and steel wools.
Wet sanding and rubbing compound with a polish or "car" wax would have better results.
I'm not trying to jump on ya Jared But your going to start having j-body guys that want to learn the right way on steps and it might apply to wet sanding paint and polish and might think that is ok to use a piece of kitchen style of steel wool
(steel wool works, try it... how can u knock on something u haven't tested)
You never said try the 0000 steel wool so how is someone to know? Till now.
I never said (in a booth) to use a spray can in a box? i never said booth at all? the idea is to get a cardboard box cut a side off on a table outside
Finally Yes i have a bit of a mouth ..Why Cause of: Reading, Watching, Asking, Hands on experience and having the results...
I'm not pushing my way and the shop i work for on to anyone its a post on J-body you take what you need and apply it the way you want I don't think theres any need to reply on steel wools and furniture wax ...
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/4235/jim25ek.jpg
