well this summer i am going to have my car repainted the fenders will be rolled and i will be in the market for new wheels and will finally install my ground controls on my koni yellows. I have been looking at alot of nissan 240's and s2000's and love how theyre wheels are right at the fender as if its almost rubbing LIKE THIS i know are cars arent 240's or s2000's but is there any way to at least get the rim to sit flush with the lines of the car? wat offset would i need to run? i hate how my rims look all sunken in, i dont want the camber or anything like that i just would like to know wat offset i should be running to get the rim to sit flush with the bodylines of the car, thanks guys

might be another dumb question but does anyone know if they make ccw classics in our lug pattern>? i figure they make emfor civics why not for a cav? they super expensive though

or anyone know of any wheels similar to ccw classics? i love those wheels

ok instead of making a new threadddddd one more question haha anyone have a list or know any manufacturers other than konig that make the wheels with the prizma lip?

The stretched tire look isnt very popular with this crowd so you will have to do some testing and figure it out for yourself. Basically the key to pulling that off is wide wheels and stretched sidewalls. I'm a big fan of the "demon camber" as they call it in japanese car circles. I think it really helps to pull that look off.

Before buying rims, measure the offset of your current rims and add spacers until you get the offset and fitment you like, then do the math and find out what offset you are looking for.

This page will help with tire size. A friend of mine owns a used tire shop so I can play around a little and see what fits best but you'll just have to do some measuring and take an educated guess.
Sorry I couldnt help out more and show you some numbers.

You're looking for an 8" wide rim with something around a 30 to 35 offset, maybe even a little lower in the back if you can find it. That will get the wheel pretty close to the fender. As for the stretched sidewall, not only do I think it looks like crap, but it's a safety issue. The tire is actually pulling itself away from the edge of the rim because it's not wide enough.

It's possible to get rims to sit flush on our cars and tuck without the sidewall being stretched out like that, but it takes some fine tuning. The rims on those S2000s are actually outside of the fender, not flush.

thanks guys, one more question with spacers am i gonna need longer wheel studs? if so are ARP the only company that sells em? or can i find em at autozone for a different car?

If you go any more than a 5mm spacer, I would most definitely replace the wheel studs. A good way to check is to get an open lug nut (you can pop the cap off a factory one) and mount the wheel. If every thread on the nut is not engaged, you need longer studs.

im debating order the 5mm studs since i think i may want to space out the rear a bit more than 35(just rolled my fenders theyre pretty thin now) were can i get longer studs? is there any cars were i can get the studs from at autozone or advance auto that have longer studs?

this is a good question, im interested aswell.. it seems to me that the back wheels usually tuck big time and the front wheels stick out on a lot of wheels... im wondering wat backset or offset is needed to get the back wheels out flush and the fronts in flush? ive got a sunfire but i figure its the same for a cavy.. im kind of a noob to the j body community

thanx

SC454SS wrote:this is a good question, im interested aswell.. it seems to me that the back wheels usually tuck big time and the front wheels stick out on a lot of wheels... im wondering wat backset or offset is needed to get the back wheels out flush and the fronts in flush? ive got a sunfire but i figure its the same for a cavy.. im kind of a noob to the j body community

I've noticed this problem a lot in the past year, mainly because I was trying to pick an offset for my new wheels. It's also VERY notice-able with my Type-J sides. Unless someone else has a better idea, I think the only solution would be to get a different offset in the back, versus the front. Or, lengthen the studs in the back and space the wheel out.

Agent Omega wrote:

SC454SS wrote:this is a good question, im interested aswell.. it seems to me that the back wheels usually tuck big time and the front wheels stick out on a lot of wheels... im wondering wat backset or offset is needed to get the back wheels out flush and the fronts in flush? ive got a sunfire but i figure its the same for a cavy.. im kind of a noob to the j body community

I've noticed this problem a lot in the past year, mainly because I was trying to pick an offset for my new wheels. It's also VERY notice-able with my Type-J sides. Unless someone else has a better idea, I think the only solution would be to get a different offset in the back, versus the front. Or, lengthen the studs in the back and space the wheel out.

to be honest the i actually think the back is perfect in most cases.. its the front that annoys the crap outta me. i hate it when a wheel is sticking out of the front fenders

Try Summit Racing Equipment. All you need to do is ask for the length stud you need in 12x1.5 threads. If they don't have the right ones in metric, you can actually change to a standard stud rather than a metric one, you'll just have to change your nuts, too.

^^you need the knurl dimension too.

I'd stick to stock offset (in front especially) due to scrub radius.. the rear its not as important but I believe track width in the rear will effect turn-in and how the car "rotates" through a turn.


could be wrong.. suspension is still a bit voo-doo to me.

DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:^^you need the knurl dimension too.

Yeah, I forgot that one, but I believe the 1/2-20 that fit the late 90's 'stangs fit in our hubs if need be.

PJ wrote:I'd stick to stock offset (in front especially) due to scrub radius.. the rear its not as important but I believe track width in the rear will effect turn-in and how the car "rotates" through a turn.

Increased track width in the rear will give you a little more neutral handling. The narrower rear is part of why cars have understeer from the factory. There is no negative affect on handling by increasing rear width.

I will agree that increasing the front significantly will have a negative affect, but mostly if you drop offset significantly. As long as you're adding close to the same amount of tread width on the inside and the outside, you're OK.

interested as well. there is no way of having a lip in the back? wheels wouldn't be able to be rotated but I think it'd look beautiful. lip in the rear like they do on the 350z. by no means am I trying to make people think my car is rwd just want to push the rear tires (rims) out flush giving it a "no gap" look all around. of course the car would set lower in the front to follow the body llines. a great (much safer) alt to wheel spacing for dd use imo. although I don't know that much about legthened studs either.

No problem having a bigger lip in the rear. As long as you can find a set of rims available in more than one offset in the same size and bolt pattern, you're fine. I would stick to the same width rim, just lower offset for the rear, but you can get wider rims for the rear if you want that look.

You are better off doing it this way than using spacers and longer studs.