I'm changing a getrag this weekend.
I have never dropped a trans out, only brought it out the top with the motor.
When it comes to the axles what do we do with them?
Will they come out of the trans with them still bolted in the hub or do I have to pop the ball joints and remove them from the hubs?
Thanks....For the help.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, July 25, 2013 7:35 PM
Pull the strut bolts just make sure to mark them if you have camber bolts pull down slide the axle out much easier IMHO than pulling a ball joint. I work flat rate and that's how I pull them all the time.
I use to do it how Josh said to but lately i switched to just leaving strut bolts alone and pop out ball joints instead and so far for me at least its been alot faster way of doing it, but both methods for sure work.
FuzzMASTA9
Pop out the ball joints. I just swapped my 5 speed last wkend. You can take the struts out but that's more work and you will lose your alignment
Hub and everything slides out once you have room.
I just removed the two lower strut nuts/bolts, caliper (2 bolts) and rotor, end link, and popped the ball joint. But popping my ball joints ruined the bushings. Though Im putting in brand new control arms and bushings so i didnt care.
Then used a large screw driver and gently pryed on the axle housing near the tranny and they popped right out like butter. Dont forget to zip tie your caliper up to keep the stress off the brake lines.
You guys that are popping the ball joints, are you able to do so without runining them?
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Its 50/50 when popping ball joints if boot will rip or not, last time mine ripped just went to oreillys and got the energy suspension boots instead
FuzzMASTA9
When I do them I pop the ball joints.Make sure you take the back plastic off its right above where the passenger side Axel goes into the trans it's a 10mm.Also make sure you take the 15mm nut off the stud and remove the stud there is an aluminum spacer that will fast out.When reinstalling you can insert bolts loosely but make sure to get that spacer back in, then the stud and tightened back up before you tighten anything back down.depending on miles do yourself a favor and replace the throwout bearing I didn't and had to pull it again a few months later. G/L
blu04DD wrote:You guys that are popping the ball joints, are you able to do so without runining them?
Only do this on vehicles with cast iron steering knuckles (Cavaliers are cast iron), you can ruin aluminum ones doing this, they can crack while driving and you will die in a fiery crash!!! Take the nut off, then smack the part of the steering knuckle that surrounds the ball joint stud with a hammer. 5-10 hard hits will usually release the ball joint from the knuckle (with a good ear you can hear the hit that breaks it loose), then put a long pry bar under the engine cradle and over the control arm (as far outboard as possible) pry down and the ball joint will slide right out. You can also pry while hitting the knuckle if it's stubborn. Keep an eye on the steering knuckle, if hitting it starts to deform it significantly, stop and destroy the ball joint grease boot with a pickle fork. Better to replace a ball joint than a steering knuckle. And again, only on cast iron, fiery crash and all...
Also, about replacing clutch components, read this thread, save yourself a big headache, replace everything if you replace anything:
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=41&i=47961&t=47961
There is a shortcut that allows you to pull the trans from the bottom without also pulling the engine. Basically, you just cut the very tip off the engine cradle on the drivers' side. I painted mine to keep it from rusting. There is a brace that runs from it to the radiator support, cut the cradle just in front of the hole for the bolt so you can bolt that piece back on. Lets the transmission just barely slide out, but it's very doable. If you can, I have found that it's actually easier for me to "bench press" the transaxle into place than try to get it in with a jack or engine hoist (due to how you have to twist it to get it in the car). You definitely need a helper/spotter for this, they will need to thread one of the top bolts in after you get it into place. Of course, don't try to remove it from the car like that unless you have a second transaxle out of the car that you can try lifting to be sure it won't crush you.
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'04 Cavalier
2.2 Ecotec Supercharged w/ 2.9" pulley
Charge air cooler
Poly bushings - lower control arm and engine/trans
Why are you gys popping the ball joints. I have never taken the ball joints out when taking axles and or tranny out.
FU Tuning
seems like it gives you a lot more room to drop the hub and everything to pull the axle straight out. but that was my first time removing it, im sure theres other easier ways to go about it.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
blu04DD wrote:seems like it gives you a lot more room to drop the hub and everything to pull the axle straight out. but that was my first time removing it, im sure theres other easier ways to go about it.
We have never done that. Take the two bolts for the strut (lower part), kick the hub outwards (leaving both ball joints connected), and the cv axles has enough movement to get it out of the hub.
Since I will be removing my tranny very soon I will take some pictures.
FU Tuning
