How do you get that bolt out in the bellhousing of the F23 (that is behind the plastic cover going into a shaft) without putting heat to it and destroying the bearing there ? Is it Right or Left hand thread ? I have use a 2 1/2 ft breaker bar, hit it with an impact wrench. I don't want to break the gears inside. Need to install an OBX LSD...
I used an impact gun, but it had 600 ft lbs in reverse.
Maybe you need a stronger one?
Its a standard bolt, but it had thread-lock on it.
So, It's Right-Hand Thread ? Mine only goes to 400 ft. lbs.
Yeah its RH.
I had to take mine to my buddies shop, my gun was too weak!
A big breaker bar worked for me. Kinda scary because it's hollow, and it makes a horrible snapping sound when you break it loose, but it will come out. Make sure you clean the threads and reinstall with loctite.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Roofy wrote:A big breaker bar worked for me. Kinda scary because it's hollow, and it makes a horrible snapping sound when you break it loose, but it will come out. Make sure you clean the threads and reinstall with loctite.
How did that work out for you?
How did you keep output shaft from spinning?
That was my problem, you spin one, the other one spins.
Yeah used an impact gun on mine as well. to install or remove without air I used an old clutch and fabbed up something to hold it in place.
I used a 3 foot jack handle with a large allen key. Heat Heat Heat Heat. and lots of walking around in circles while my dad kept heat on the bolt!
My buddies at SPEC Clutch are sending me a Clutch Plate Hub to make a tool out of. Just weld a socket on it. That should hold the input shaft still instead of a Pipe Wrench. LOL !!!
Sunfire SSR wrote:My buddies at SPEC Clutch are sending me a Clutch Plate Hub to make a tool out of. Just weld a socket on it. That should hold the input shaft still instead of a Pipe Wrench. LOL !!!
GOOD IDEA.
Make it a quality piece and rent it out.
Im sure you could make at least $20 a pop!
Got the Hub tool made. Broke (2) Hex Sockets already. No give on this thing. Guess I'll have to put heat on it and ruin the bearing in the bellhousing to get it out. Any other ideas ?
Sunfire SSR wrote:Got the Hub tool made. Broke (2) Hex Sockets already. No give on this thing. Guess I'll have to put heat on it and ruin the bearing in the bellhousing to get it out. Any other ideas ?
You won't hurt the bearing. We did not hurt mine, and I'm still running it with 136k.
FU Tuning
i used my factory clutch and an allen key. put the allen key in the hollow bolt and then put the clutch disc on the input shaft and turned the clutch disc by hand in the correct direction. did the same to tighten the bolt back up... just spun the clutch in the opposite direction.
^^ thats exactly what i always do.. i also made a tool like mentioned above. i cut apart a stock clutch to get the spline piece.
Any pics of what exactly you guys are working on? I will need to take mine apart when I get it.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Just confirming that part # 9120610 is for the black plastic piece
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
Another idea is to remove shifter and lock the trans in two gears at once. Then use huge breaker bar and have a friend hold the trans down. My trans was brand new and much tighter than any used. The clutch plate tool works good on used trans.
