Where can i find a shift kit with plate for a 4T40E Transmission? I have a 2002 cavalier.
B&M makes a great shift kit for the 4t40e tranny.
Check with www.turbotechracing.com, www.gravanatuning.com, and possibly www.carcustoms.com for availability.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
all i need is the plate for the transmission, its for racing only
Yeah we carry the shift kit
www.TurboTechRacing.com
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
Is there a phone number for turbo tech racing.
ok want easy shift kit for 4t40e and this is not a joke ... cut the blut wite wire it will put the tranny to full pressure and the shift adapts are disabled so it will go to tps mode and shift according to rpm and tps ... the 99 cac z24 i did chirps 2nd and 3rd
frank strutzke wrote:ok want easy shift kit for 4t40e and this is not a joke ... cut the blut wite wire it will put the tranny to full pressure and the shift adapts are disabled so it will go to tps mode and shift according to rpm and tps ... the 99 cac z24 i did chirps 2nd and 3rd
What?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
that dont sound to healthy for the trans......
My car was made with wrenches, Not chopsticks.
frank strutzke wrote:ok want easy shift kit for 4t40e and this is not a joke ... cut the blut wite wire it will put the tranny to full pressure and the shift adapts are disabled so it will go to tps mode and shift according to rpm and tps ... the 99 cac z24 i did chirps 2nd and 3rd
The light-blue/white wire is the pressure control solenoid. The solenoid is a PWM controlled bleed valve (higher duty cycle = lower pressure)... so yeah, this would work. You will just have 100% line pressure all the time, which won't be pleasant shifting from park to drive. It's certainly a neat/cheap trick for a track car, though.
I have no signiture
Sac thanks for explaining that better.
Couldn't one take a pot and some circuitry and vary the pulse widths to what ever duty cycle they wanted? So it could be say 30% on to 70%ish on with a 5K pot.....
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Sac thanks for explaining that better.
Couldn't one take a pot and some circuitry and vary the pulse widths to what ever duty cycle they wanted? So it could be say 30% on to 70%ish on with a 5K pot.....
Isnt that what the Shiftplus and Autotrans Interceptor does?
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Sac thanks for explaining that better.
Couldn't one take a pot and some circuitry and vary the pulse widths to what ever duty cycle they wanted? So it could be say 30% on to 70%ish on with a 5K pot.....
I'm thinking about putting a switch in it so I can turn it on or off at will. ON position = normal function pressure, OFF position = 100% pressure. I could Put the car in DRIVE, turn the switch off and then just make my runs, what do you think?
About making it adjustable , how about a dimer switch from home depot?
Armando Tapia wrote:I'm thinking about putting a switch in it so I can turn it on or off at will. ON position = normal function pressure, OFF position = 100% pressure. I could Put the car in DRIVE, turn the switch off and then just make my runs, what do you think?
About making it adjustable , how about a dimer switch from home depot?
Dimmer switch from home depot is ....NO.
A switch would work.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Sac thanks for explaining that better.
Couldn't one take a pot and some circuitry and vary the pulse widths to what ever duty cycle they wanted? So it could be say 30% on to 70%ish on with a 5K pot.....
I suppose. A pot itself can't change pulse widths, though. I'm sure you know that, but just clarifying. All it will do is reduce the voltage of the pulse and drastically reduce the current, making your solenoid useless. However, you could certainly use it to reference a duty cycle with some added switching and amplification circuitry. Or, an easier method would be to use a microcontroller with a built-in PWM and a power MOSFET transistor. A small part of my Senior Design actually worked off of this very same principle: we used a pot and had one of the ADC inputs read in the voltage, and then use that voltage as a reference to alter the duty cycle.
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:-MD- Enforcer wrote:Sac thanks for explaining that better.
Couldn't one take a pot and some circuitry and vary the pulse widths to what ever duty cycle they wanted? So it could be say 30% on to 70%ish on with a 5K pot.....
Isnt that what the Shiftplus and Autotrans Interceptor does?
Without actually seeing the differences in signals between normal and when they're engaged, there's really no telling. I don't know anything about the Autotrans, but (if memory serves me right) the B&M is run in parallel with the pressure control solenoid, so, it's probably either linearly reducing the voltage, or it acts as a sink for a given period of the duty cycle. Without a scope, there's really no way to tell for sure, though.
I have no signiture
Armando Tapia wrote:-MD- Enforcer wrote:Sac thanks for explaining that better.
Couldn't one take a pot and some circuitry and vary the pulse widths to what ever duty cycle they wanted? So it could be say 30% on to 70%ish on with a 5K pot.....
I'm thinking about putting a switch in it so I can turn it on or off at will. ON position = normal function pressure, OFF position = 100% pressure. I could Put the car in DRIVE, turn the switch off and then just make my runs, what do you think?
About making it adjustable , how about a dimer switch from home depot?
Just so you know, you might have to turn off the car before the PCM's Pressure control will take effect again. I have a set of switches for "manually" changing gears (controls the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids), but I can't switch between the manual control and PCM on-the-fly...that is, if I switch back, the trans is stuck in that set of solenoid positions until I shut off and restart the car.
Also keep in mind that you'll need a switch that can take more than 1.5 amps to control the Pressure Control Solenoid.
I have no signiture
IVE DONE IT!
I was a bit bored this weekend and decided to make a small tuneup to my car (oil, spark plugs, air filter, engine wash). When I was done I still had some time to kill and decided to test this. After a a quick trip to the electronics store, 5 bucks and about 10 min I had a test setup. Actually works pretty well, shifts harder, definitely a difference. I thought it would shift as hard as when you disconnect the iat sensor, but its way smoother, smooth from P to D etc. Since this was a test setup I didn't weld or fixed anything into place, just some splice wire conectors, some electrical tape and a small and ugly looking switch.
Ill take a video or pics if you guys are interested.
HPTuners pretty much killed the external 'shift kit' market for the Jbody.
you can tune and adapt shift pressure to whatever it is you're doing (cruising or WOT), so you won't need to mess with switches or what have you.
although the force a gear thing is pretty cool.. you can do it through the scanner on HPT but having a set of dedicated switches would be pretty cool.
Hmmm, this is interesting. I never thought abt that, especially since my Z has very harsh shift from 1st to 2nd, but its smooth the rest of the way. Im wondering if something is wrong with the wiring bc it shifts hard as hell, even with normal city driving. Hmmm.
Mike Z A.K.A SNEEZY wrote:Hmmm, this is interesting. I never thought abt that, especially since my Z has very harsh shift from 1st to 2nd, but its smooth the rest of the way. Im wondering if something is wrong with the wiring bc it shifts hard as hell, even with normal city driving. Hmmm.
My friends Bravada did that right before the tranny started going out. The trans would slip in the 1 to 2 shift and the computer would kick up the trans pressure to make the shift and make it slam into gear.
