On my, what I believe to be, Isuzu transmission slave cylinder is not so quick. I understand the theory of how it SHOULD work but that is not the case with mine here. My buddy was just over to help on the issue because he has dealt with these on his s10's transmission and he could not get it to budge either. My question in short is how do I get this god for saken thing off? Also, I read on here in some thread that you can use a BMW stainless steal line but I can not find what thread I was reading, does anyone know off hand the information as to how that is done? And my final question is how can I bypass this "quick" disconnect? Is it as simple as flaring some solid line and fabing up a connection or is this thing really there for some purpose?
It is not difficult after you have done it a few times, less than 30 seconds. You push the the big lip in while pulling the feed line out (do both at the same time). I would not waste your time with the steel line, it is not going to benefit you very much.
I was pressing my heart away with this thing and it didn't budge.. Is it because I wasn't pulling the feed line at the same time? I even tried to push and twist at the same time cause there looks to be a curved line going down the plastic piece. Also this may be a stupid question but by feed line I'm assuming you mean the plastic on coming from the master? Just want to be sure before I try again tomorrow. And thanks for the input as well.
Yes, the feed line is the plastic tube going into the the disconnect from the master cylinder. You don't have to twist it, although sometimes it does seem to help. You have to push in on the lip, and pull the feed line (you really have to pull-not crazy hard, but with some oomph).
You DONT want to do both motions at the same time. The harder you pull out with the lock still engaged the harder it holds on. You must release the lock before you pull out. Push the lip in, it will take a bit of force and then slide in a bit, then pull the line out. There is a great diagram of how to uninstall and reinstall it in your Haynes Manual.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Yeah you actually slide the lock and push the line IN, then out. If you just pull on the line while trying to push the lock you're just going to eff the little metal teeth inside the line. Good luck removing that little bracket and fixing those teeth.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Thanks for all the extra input on this everyone but apparently I am "special" when it comes to removing this connector. This thing is literally my kryptonite working on this vehicle or any other for that matter. I am discussed at how much this little connection is holding up this whole project and no one I have had over to help can get this thing either. Every other vehicle I have owned had a simple line nut that connected to an external slave cylinder and it seems to me that's a quick disconnect as oppose to this little cylinder that refuses to let the line go. I am officially stumped as to what to do here and am thinking about just cutting the line, replacing the slave and making the simple line nut connection somehow. I would rather not do that though cause that's money I shouldn't have to spend.
Cutting it is just going to give you a whole different list of problems. Keep messing with it.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
A little trick is loosening off the bleeder first, it helps alot.
Wait a minute.. Taking off the bleeder will help this out? That is the one thing I know for sure I have never tried. I am going to try that out tomorrow and hopefully thats the solution I am looking for. Because in all honesty I don't want to cut it but I am about at that point for real.
I could not get mine apart either so I just unbolted it. Not sure if this is an option for you, but it worked for me!
