Any know if our tranny's can accept a transbrake, mainly the 4T40E. Hell, or even a line lock.

Post up any info ya go.

Thx










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

David. There are two kits.

Trans-Go makes a kit for the 4T65-E which fits our cars....with tweaking
Rossler Trans is also suppose to make / adapt a kit that can fit our cars. There is nothing on their site any more though.









Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, June 02, 2010 12:28 PM

PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Thanks Mike, Trans-Go only listed shift kits that I saw.

Rossler I didnt see anything like you said.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

I too have been wondering about a line lock... considering its just an inline valve, is it possible for us to install a line lock on the car since it just goes in line of the brake line to the master cylinder?

BuiltNBoosted wrote:I too have been wondering about a line lock... considering its just an inline valve, is it possible for us to install a line lock on the car since it just goes in line of the brake line to the master cylinder?

That is the reason why I am wondering if they make these for our transmissions seeing I was in my buddies shop while he was installing a transbrake in a customers 7 sec automatic Z06. He asked me if they made those for my car seeing there are so many swapable parts from the Vettes, F-bodies, to the J-bodies. The only thing he did was screw the transbrake solonoid into the side of the automatic tranny for the Vette and wired it up. It looked so easy, that inspired this thread lol.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Ask Ben Wenzel Jr what trans brake he uses.....





PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Ahh, I didnt know he was using one. Thx Mike










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

WHITECAVY wrote:Ahh, I didnt know he was using one. Thx Mike

Yeah he got rid of the 5 speed, and got a 4t45E if i remember correctly.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

lmao just neutral drop the SOB.

(kiding, natrally. )



180hp in 1989 or 145hp in 2002, you decide. >

BuiltNBoosted wrote:I too have been wondering about a line lock... considering its just an inline valve, is it possible for us to install a line lock on the car since it just goes in line of the brake line to the master cylinder?

why would you need a line lock on a fwd car? can you just pull the e brake hard enough?

z yaaaa wrote:other than the nasty hood dent, steelies, 4X4 ride heidt, crooked front license plate, body color b pillar covers, 2200, lack of tint, and overall boringness of the car id say she's perfect!

Red2.2cavi wrote:

BuiltNBoosted wrote:I too have been wondering about a line lock... considering its just an inline valve, is it possible for us to install a line lock on the car since it just goes in line of the brake line to the master cylinder?

why would you need a line lock on a fwd car? can you just pull the e brake hard enough?

I have yet to see a J sit still while doing a burnout at the track when the e-brake is pulled. I know my car doesn't stay in place when my e-brake is pulled. Ben Wenzel has a line lock on his auto. Hopefully he will chime in if he see's this. I PM'd him with some questions.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

I over power my e brake stathe track doing a burn out. Would be better to mash the pedal, hold the button to stay put. Easier to preload the clutch at the line too

Hey Hey here i am

Yes i did have a very complex line loc setup for my 5 speed, were do i start hmmm: for all you 5 speed owners you have a cluch petal button (must push in the clutch to start the car). I cut and rewired that to do 2 things: A - when starting it passes postive voltage. B - when key is in the run poss through a few relays it is used to pass ground to hold the line loc and rev limiter, BUT it ONLY does this after holding the stering wheel button the clutch petal button just holds everything till launch, so in easier terms when i have the clutch to the floor and allready staged and circuit activaded i have my left hand on the the wheel and right hand on the shifter with the line loc and rev limiter activated . . . whew

I had a diagram somewhere but i think it was wrong i did some weird ign feedback, sorry id have to redraw it from memory

not sure if this helps just babbling,
well . . . back to building my engine for the 2010 bash

o and forgot, no transbrake for the 4t45e, just using the line locs for now
-Ben

BuiltNBoosted wrote:I over power my e brake stathe track doing a burn out. Would be better to mash the pedal, hold the button to stay put. Easier to preload the clutch at the line too

With 120k on the factory rear brakes I have no problem doing a burnout and sitting still. Has more to do with having the tires spin faster. 2 gear burnouts help with that alot.



FU Tuning

Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:

BuiltNBoosted wrote:I over power my e brake at the track doing a burn out. Would be better to mash the pedal, hold the button to stay put. Easier to preload the clutch at the line too

With 120k on the factory rear brakes I have no problem doing a burnout and sitting still. Has more to do with having the tires spin faster. 2 gear burnouts help with that alot.

i do 2nd gear burnouts but even with the lever cranked all the way up it still rolls me forward. tried adjusting the adjusters in the drums but no luck, id think a line loc would help 100%


and ben i think i get what you are saying.... hold button on wheel to send signal to line loc, once clutch is all the way down signal passes through to the line loc and activates it, foot comes up, line loc disengages, away you go?

Doing 3rd gear burnouts with slicks and neon rears if very fun, lol. I would love to get line lock on the car, but i think we need 2 kits unless you only have one line going to both sides on the rear.

Geez, so damn complicated lol










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

jmarks82 wrote:Doing 3rd gear burnouts with slicks and neon rears if very fun, lol. I would love to get line lock on the car, but i think we need 2 kits unless you only have one line going to both sides on the rear.

good point.... ill have to look at my dads 71 and see what he did for the lines if his are independent lines to the rear.

Vince

YES ! something like that

-Ben

color me lost but exactly how is a line lock going to help with dragging the rear wheels?

once they are locked and dragging either with the ebrake all the way engaged or actual brakes all the way engaged the same thing happens, the wheels lock and drag.



180hp in 1989 or 145hp in 2002, you decide. >

z yaaaa wrote:color me lost but exactly how is a line lock going to help with dragging the rear wheels?

once they are locked and dragging either with the ebrake all the way engaged or actual brakes all the way engaged the same thing happens, the wheels lock and drag.

mine arent dragging, its rolling through. my e-brake is not holding tight enough to what i can assume is stretched cables. line lock would also allow me to pre load the clutch like fetter does without having to drop the handle. hold the button, slip the clutch, then straight drop it.


ben... how did you do it with dual lines to the rear? is there a main line to the back you tapped into?

ah then yes you'll need to get that fixed.

paul's car drags the rear wheels, it doesnt matter if you dump the clutch at 7000 in first or second gear it just pulls right out. and its n/a.

i can only imagine how much worse it'd be for a car with over 300whp and 300wtq.



180hp in 1989 or 145hp in 2002, you decide. >

When mye brake held before, It held. Literally sit and spin. Line loc would make racing easier too

Well my ish drags like a mofo, I either gotta gas it more during burnouts, or not worry about it lol










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

it all depends on the way your suspension is set-up.

a car that squats in the rear is going to be able to spin em off easier than one thats solid, or as solid as can be.

vince, with you getting outstanding 60's from just azenis i cant imagine your car being very soft in the rear so i dont get why yours spins and the rear wheels stay planted... then again its turboed and has alot of power, so...



180hp in 1989 or 145hp in 2002, you decide. >