First of all, when this is all said and done, I'll get a good picture of the crack in my housing. It looks like a gun shot from the inside.
I know what clutch packs I'm going with.
That's it really..... I need to know what other parts should be upgraded in a trans build, valves, FCM, selenoids, etc, etc. My build is N/A, however I may consider a mild 350 HP turbo setup in the future
I would appriciate advise from anyone who has had a tranny built or better yet built a tranny. I know I've been in a thread where someone here listed their build list.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
stock it will handle all the N/A you can give it, and quite a few ppl have used stock with turbo builds and been just fine.
for something as expensive as a built auto tranny, i would make damn sure you want to go turbo before doing it.
Rollin' on question marks since 07.
Quote:
when this is all said and done, I'll get a good picture of the crack in my housing. It looks like a gun shot from the inside.
10,000 miles of daily driving and 5-7 quarter runs a week. It slips like crazy, my engine will sometimes idle at 1500RPM, gets stuck between 3rd and 4th, throws a PO730(activated by HPT) and I went from having ZERO leaks, NOTHING, NOTA, anywhere, to literaly having a hole the size of a 22 on the housing.
Please. Tell me a stock tranny is fine. I didn't read any other posts saying the same thing.
I'm sure the B&M sh!t plus, didn't help. What does it do? F*** with the signal to the FCM? It always felt like the next gear was grabbing before the current gear had even released. It squeeled like that too.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
funny, i can think of at least 4 users on here that have beat the absolute piss out of their 4t40e's and were just fine.
and because i don't think you'll believe me, ill list them.
skilz - turbo
md ld9 - n/a
acer - turbo
misnblu - n/a
bonnet - turbo
Rollin' on question marks since 07.
I'd start with an F35 and go from there ! MANUAL FTW!!!
-Chris
Talk to whitecavy about his built 4T40E.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Transgo shift kit and boost line pressure in trans, call it a day!
Ben Harel wrote:
mine did this exact same thing, but it was after 140k miles of hard driving. all motor also with minor mods.
The one, the only, ME.
2465 lbs without me
141 hp @ 6300 (ran out of rpms)
123 ft lbs @ 5200
running lean on stock ECU
megasquirt here i come
Jbody 420 wrote:Transgo shift kit and boost line pressure in trans, call it a day!
More info please.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Go to a local tranny shop and order a TRANSGO shift kit for a 4T40E, the shift kit may or may not be easy for you to install depending on your comfort level with automatic transmissions. You have to take the valve body off and change springs, valves and possibly drill holes. Then you are going to want to boost main line pressure in the trans, there is a pressure control solenoid on the valve body that has a torx adjuster on the end. Turn the torx 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise to boost line pressure. There is only one adjustable solenoid so you know what you are looking for. About the shift kit I cant remember if there is one for the 4T40E so just go ask your local tranny guy. The shift kit is probably not needed if you cant get one or dont want to get into the trans that deep, just boost pressure and the shifts will be nice and firm. Maybe even lay rubber on the 1-2 shift depending on how much you crank that adjuster.
Jbody 420 wrote:Go to a local tranny shop and order a TRANSGO shift kit for a 4T40E, the shift kit may or may not be easy for you to install depending on your comfort level with automatic transmissions. You have to take the valve body off and change springs, valves and possibly drill holes. Then you are going to want to boost main line pressure in the trans, there is a pressure control solenoid on the valve body that has a torx adjuster on the end. Turn the torx 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise to boost line pressure. There is only one adjustable solenoid so you know what you are looking for. About the shift kit I cant remember if there is one for the 4T40E so just go ask your local tranny guy. The shift kit is probably not needed if you cant get one or dont want to get into the trans that deep, just boost pressure and the shifts will be nice and firm. Maybe even lay rubber on the 1-2 shift depending on how much you crank that adjuster.
I was chirpin' second with the B&M. Will manually turning the adjuster allow me to increase line pressure to above 96 PSI? If not, there would be no point (that i know of). I am perfectly comfortable tearing into my auto. I have never done so but I know a few pro's in the field. I found a trans brake for a 4T40/45E. Maybe someday.....***dazes off***
-MD- LD9 wrote:Talk to whitecavy about his built 4T40E.
Whitecavy was the member I was thinking of, thanks.
AND WOW.....Thats picture can only make me glad mine has not had a catastrophic failure (knocks on wood). Thats about where the hole is.... I
have heard the diff IS the first to go.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
What trans brake?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
meh, no thanks on the adjusting the line pressure inside the tranny... id rather go the HPT route, ive HEARD you can set it up so that you can have whatever pressure amount increase you want only at WOT or partial throttle, whichever you want. personally i would like 25% increased over the board all the time, then at WOT 100%.
i really get annoyed with the 'clunk' that i get going into gear with the autotrans interceptor and its only at 50%.
Rollin' on question marks since 07.
I called Transco and should here back on a price for their shift kit, soon.
Also there is a transbreak from
Rossler 4L60E/4L65E, 4L80E/4L85E, 4T40E, 4T65E avalible for us.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 17, 2008 8:12 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Transgo said they have never made a 4T40e or a 4T45e kit.
????
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
oh my god a trans brake for our cars. wow
now THAT would be fun.......
Rollin' on question marks since 07.
z yaaaa wrote:meh, no thanks on the adjusting the line pressure inside the tranny... id rather go the HPT route, ive HEARD you can set it up so that you can have whatever pressure amount increase you want only at WOT or partial throttle, whichever you want. personally i would like 25% increased over the board all the time, then at WOT 100%.
i really get annoyed with the 'clunk' that i get going into gear with the autotrans interceptor and its only at 50%.
The PCM uses torque and gear to determine how much pressure to use between shifts and the amount of time between shift. How it measures torque is currently a mystery to me, and I would love to know if the X axis of those two tables in HPT are comparable to a dyno graph. If thats true, a dyno would be needed to accuratly fill in these tables. I guessed and its MUCH better than the B&M Shift Plus, it doesn't squeel like a dying pig when i let off the gas.
-MD- LD9 wrote:Rossler
HA!! That's the kit! I would love to have it, but honestly.......I mean COME ON!!!! I don't see it being practical in a FWD DD. I called Rossler, it's $595.95, but you need a deeper pan. The sell two, one much deeper than stock and isn't recomended for anything but a trailer queen. the second is $260 and only about 1/2 an inch deeper than stock. For anyone that is good at fab work you can use a 4L65e pan (from a truck) and modify it to fit.
To install it you need to drill a hole in the valve body, a hole in the pan, for the wires, and to remove the reverse gear drum to realign the clearance of the reverse clutch band....something along the lines of that. So its a bit of work.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
could one simply 'add' a half inch to the bottom of the pan?
Rollin' on question marks since 07.
z yaaaa wrote:could one simply 'add' a half inch to the bottom of the pan?
I was thinking just adding a half inch spacer between the trans and the pan, and using longer bolts. But that would work just as well, and probably cheaper than having a custom flange made. My budget for this was $1200. Turns out I should only need $600. This would be really, really, ridiculously cool. Who wants to talk me in/out of it?
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
ok so someone was to just lengthen the pan for a non-built tranny, would it help anything other than just keeping the fluid cooler?
Rollin' on question marks since 07.
May i ask if you want a built transmission, why not go with a 4T65E? I picked up a working one for $200 and the adapter plate and mounts are only $400. So $600 I have a transmission that is proven to handle 400HP, and with $500 more I could buy upgrades and handle 500-600HP. I would look into this option. Oh you might need a little wiring experience and learn how to flip toggle switches to shift it, unless you spend $700 on a PCS controller.
^ I would LOVE to have a 4T65E, but you listed just a few of the problems. If I were going to go through so much trouble for a swap, I would stay with the well documented F23 swap. I honestly don't love automatic
that much, I'm sticking with it for one reason: $$$$$!!!!! A built automatic is, debatebly, as fast or faster than a standard. When a J starts its life as a slow-a-matic, it's going to cost around the same for either route.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
