So here we go again.... I already got 2 opinions from WrenchMonkey and Taetsch, but I'd like a couple more while I'm waiting to call SPEC...
Ok, on the left is my old clutch, on the right is my new one. Both of them are SPEC Stage 3, both of them for the 00+, and both of them have the flywheel side up. If you notice the center where the spline goes through, its raised on my old clutch, and flush on my new one. On the opposite side of the clutch its exactly the opposite, the raised part is on the new clutch and the flush part is on the old clutch.
On the old clutch, the raised spline "hub" sits about 1/8th to 3/16ths of an inch over the pads. WTF is going on here? Taetsch says the new one looks right, did I get a poorly manufactured clutch?
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It sounds like to me that the wrong sides are labeled. Any pics of the backsides?
Tinkles wrote:It sounds like to me that the wrong sides are labeled. Any pics of the backsides?
Impossible.... the hub faces away from the flywheel. they can only go on one way but that spline part could be put in backwards.
Well let me apolgize for not being able to have a spec clutch for referance. Im also sorry for having a brain fart and forgeting about the differences in the front and back side of clutchs, its been a while sence i worked with them.
Maybe its redesigned? maybe so guy had a bigger brain fart then me and assembled the clutch wrong.
I would check your clearances with the new clutch and if everything checks out ok, then you should be fine.
Wow, i really need a new clutch and holy hell does spec's seem to be coming up quite often with problems.
i got a cheapo 6 puck of ebay for my dsm and its held up far better than the piece of !@#$ spec i had
Mine were the same only opposite of what yours are. they both worked fine but I do not plan on ever running a Spec clutch again. Its held up fine but the B.S. that Karo and I went through to get the last one was ridiculous. Also after having the Fidanza/Spec flywheel come apart I have really lost confidence in their products.
I'm not too keen on my Spec 2+ either.
Desert Tuners
“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
It seems to me you got a bad clutch, or maybe one for a different motor. Here is a picture of my stock clutch and you can see it is smooth like your new one.
FU Tuning
I just checked my stage 3+ and it is like your new clutch as well. Looks like you got the right one..phil
mine looks like your new clutch, but i think im done with spec
R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
after searching around on other sites, looks like SPEC has had A LOT of bad PR..... The SPEC Flywheels coming apart (they blame the Fidenza relabels they USED to use), Springs popping out of the centers (I know of 3 personally that have done it), Ron's incorrect clutchs (2 of them)...... I've seen problems here on the JBO, on the LS1 forums, and a few Import forums as well.
The SPEC clutch and flywheel in my Z have been holding up just fine, but it seems to be one of the few.
Ron, can you post up pics of the opposite side on both?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, February 04, 2008 7:19 PM
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
My stage 3 that i purchased last fall looks like your new one. It has been holding up pretty well but its on a stock motor. Cant wait for the new setup though!!
Well guys...I have been talking a bit with Ron and I have been keeping an eye on this thread as well and thought it was time for me to register and assist with further information. To address his specific situation...I too was a bit befuddled by the original pics that he posted. As a result I initially went to our disc department and picked up a disc for this application and checked it out and it looked to me like he had received the incorrect hub orientation. I then talked with production and engineering and was assured that in this application the hub orientation is irrelative...meaning that it will operate fine in either orientation. I have subsequently emailed Ron about this finding and have assured him that the disc he has is in fact fine for use. I did offer to exchange it if he wanted but this is not really something that needs be done. In certain applications hub orientation is paramount but this is not the case with Ron's app.
As for other references of issues...every car is different and every clutch kit is different. We sell thousands of clutch kits for more applications than any other manufacture world-wide. You can search for info on any manufacture of any product and find supporters and detractors...no matter how hard you may work you will never satisfy every customer every time. That being the case we do all that we can to insure that our parts are of the highest quality and that our service is second-to-none. If any of you have questions, comments, or problems please feel free to contact me at your leisure. Thanks for your time.
J. Auvil
Sales and Tech Manager
www.specclutch.com
I have installed a few spec clutches and owned 2 myself. Havent seen or heard of any problems yet. These threads still make me a little nervous but i guess everyone just needs to remember that you generally only hear stories when people arent happy (and some of the stories may not be complete- misuse, abuse etc) Oh well i am quite happy so far with mine- stage 3 on the M90 setup, and running a 2plus with a custom spec flywheel on my next setup (impatient to see results still though)
_
Now with northstar V8, IRS, 20's n 22's
Well, what is the PROPER position of the hub suppose to be tho? The way his old clutch is or the new one sitting next to it? While it may not matter the direction the hub sits apparently, i would just hope to think there would be some consistency on your end in having them all face one direction. Ya know? So it wouldn't make people feel that these were just THROWN together. Even looking at Ron's picks just above the puck's wings or pads are even different sizes. I Just personally think the quality/ consistency issue needs to be a little better addressed on your end. I'm by no means trying to harass you guys or bash the product this is just my $.02 coming from another businesses aspect of things.
The pucks are the same size, its just the perspective of the camera that messes them up.
Thanks for registering Jeremy, good to see vendors out here working these issues with us. I was waiting until I get all the details before posting a synopsis of what we were talking about.
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1997...I understand your perspective and I ask that you and everyone else frequenting this forum realize that a number of things effect clutch life. Aspects like break-in, flatness of coresponding surfaces (flywheel for instance), and even driving style greatly impact the life expectency of a clutch kit. It is rare that anyone will ever post about an issue and say..."well I beat the @#$% out of it and look what happened." In fact, more often than not no matter what the cause, or the time/mileage since installation, it will always be the manufactures fault in the eyes of the consumer. Clutches perform the same job all the time (in every gear from day one to day 1001). Clutch issue always have a cause...and considering this, any time you all have an issue email me and I will be happy to assist with trouble shooting.
Cody...thanks for your input...as I mentioned there is no "required" way for the hub to be installed. I have made some changes on our end in the production notes that should make this consistent though with the tall side of the hub facing the flywheel (not the spring cage). As for the differences in the pucks...products evolve and materials change over time. The new disc has our newest puck design...as with any product...this is how evolution works...though I am sure you all understand this. Let me know if you have any further questions.
J. Auvil
Sales and Tech Manager
www.specclutch.com
just as a milage estimate, how long do the stage 3 clutches last under normal driving?
12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
evilmonkitar wrote:just as a milage estimate, how long do the stage 3 clutches last under normal driving?
x2 And what about Stage 3+ ? What is the life expectancy and what are the major differences between 3 and 3+?
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
spec01 wrote:1997...I understand your perspective and I ask that you and everyone else frequenting this forum realize that a number of things effect clutch life. Aspects like break-in, flatness of coresponding surfaces (flywheel for instance), and even driving style greatly impact the life expectency of a clutch kit. It is rare that anyone will ever post about an issue and say..."well I beat the @#$% out of it and look what happened." In fact, more often than not no matter what the cause, or the time/mileage since installation, it will always be the manufactures fault in the eyes of the consumer. Clutches perform the same job all the time (in every gear from day one to day 1001). Clutch issue always have a cause...and considering this, any time you all have an issue email me and I will be happy to assist with trouble shooting.
Cody...thanks for your input...as I mentioned there is no "required" way for the hub to be installed. I have made some changes on our end in the production notes that should make this consistent though with the tall side of the hub facing the flywheel (not the spring cage). As for the differences in the pucks...products evolve and materials change over time. The new disc has our newest puck design...as with any product...this is how evolution works...though I am sure you all understand this. Let me know if you have any further questions.
I am deffinately one of those who beats on my clutch and realizes the outcome with that said.... 50~ passes on the drag strip with real agressive driving and im at about 30k miles on the clutch. Although i have developed a squeak on take off at times now.
Guys I can appreciate your inquisitive nature...but, no matter whose clutch you choose no manufature is ever going to provide estimated life expectancies. This is directly related to the info I posted above and the subsequent impact that numerous factors have on clutch life. I will say this though...for most drivers the stage 3+ will have a longer life expectency than a stage 3. This is related to the fact that the 3+ is a bit more progressive in terms of engagement and as such it doesn't lead you to force slippage in an attempt at gaining smoothness (as with a stage 3).
Stage 3 has a more crisp (on and off) engagement and many times foks will try to slip it to elimiante this crispness. In reality, increased slippage leads to greater chatter during engagement and is thus counter-productive. With a stage 3 you are better off getting out of the pedal a little quicker. I hope this info helps. Thanks!
J. Auvil
Sales and Tech Manager
www.specclutch.com
I'm glad to see a vendor on here. Thanks.
FU Tuning
