jsut as the title states. who would be interested in this to replace the garbage aluminum ones?
farmerz24
I might, How much are they?
I think a better part would be a stronger sleeve for the tip of the fork. It is not the fork themselves that breaks, but the plastic/nylon tip. Also are you sure the factory fork is aluminum?
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:I think a better part would be a stronger sleeve for the tip of the fork. It is not the fork themselves that breaks, but the plastic/nylon tip.
x2
I've still never seen a "bent" aluminum shift fork...... although I hear all the time people claiming to have bent them. I see no reason to replace the shift fork, just the sleeves.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
SpeedRacerZ wrote:John Higgins wrote:I think a better part would be a stronger sleeve for the tip of the fork. It is not the fork themselves that breaks, but the plastic/nylon tip.
x2
I've still never seen a "bent" aluminum shift fork...... although I hear all the time people claiming to have bent them. I see no reason to replace the shift fork, just the sleeves.
Also the forks are not aluminum. Put a magnet to them and try it out.
FU Tuning
no they are not aluminum, and its not as simple as "replacing" the sleeves, anyone thats ever seen them knows they are pretty weak. They are made from 3 pieces of 3/16" steel plate that are bent and spot welded. We're looking into getting a 1peice full steel fork made.
If i get time to pull my old trans back apart ill snap a pic of what happens to the plastic tips. And the only real reason I'm getting these done is because i never want to have to pull the trans apart again.
_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
Justin_Inc wrote:no they are not aluminum, and its not as simple as "replacing" the sleeves, anyone thats ever seen them knows they are pretty weak. They are made from 3 pieces of 3/16" steel plate that are bent and spot welded. We're looking into getting a 1peice full steel fork made.
If i get time to pull my old trans back apart ill snap a pic of what happens to the plastic tips. And the only real reason I'm getting these done is because i never want to have to pull the trans apart again.
Why can't you replace the sleeves? I have been inside my tranny. I had messed up sleeves. I can get pictures, but I see no reason a better sleeve (to replace the nylon ones) can't be made. Please a beeter reason as to why it can't be done.
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:Justin_Inc wrote:no they are not aluminum, and its not as simple as "replacing" the sleeves, anyone thats ever seen them knows they are pretty weak. They are made from 3 pieces of 3/16" steel plate that are bent and spot welded. We're looking into getting a 1peice full steel fork made.
If i get time to pull my old trans back apart ill snap a pic of what happens to the plastic tips. And the only real reason I'm getting these done is because i never want to have to pull the trans apart again.
Why can't you replace the sleeves? I have been inside my tranny. I had messed up sleeves. I can get pictures, but I see no reason a better sleeve (to replace the nylon ones) can't be made. Please a beeter reason as to why it can't be done.
I'm not saying it cant be done, I'm saying in my opinion it wouldn't be the best route to go. Its a pretty stressful part right there and by messing around with the tips i just wouldn't trust it to be 100% bulletproof. Either way i guess it would be better than the plastic @!#$.
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** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
78,000 miles and over 36 autocrosses tells me its not worth it.
-Chris
IamRascal wrote:78,000 miles and over 36 autocrosses tells me its not worth it.
I went 80k and about 200 1/4 track passes before mine mesed up. I will say I think it was because of a bad TOB, or clutch master cylinder, but it did happen. I would love to have some better sleeves.
FU Tuning
I'd be in for a complete set if they also have steel sleeves, how soon could you have a set done and how much, because my new turbo engine is in the machine shop right now being built and I like to power shift.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
I killed one in my HHR. The plastic tip was gone, now it is bronze. WOULD NOT go into third for the life of me. Dealer replaced it under warranty. Someone should find out what the bronze part number is. Maybe I can ask my dealer.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- LD9 wrote:I killed one in my HHR. The plastic tip was gone, now it is bronze. WOULD NOT go into third for the life of me. Dealer replaced it under warranty. Someone should find out what the bronze part number is. Maybe I can ask my dealer.
Please do.My Cobalt 2.4 goes in next week and would love to atleast have a part number for the bronze tips. This way when i say something they don't give me that stupid "wtf i'm an idiot look".
2006 Cobalt SS 2.4L 9.6 @74mph 1/8th mile w/2.28 60ft
Hey Justin any updates or prices yet, I need these quickly since the old motor & trans are coming out now would be the ideal time to change them while the trans is out of the car.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.