Im looking to get a spec clutch for my car...its not going o be too nuts but i do plan on running a boost o some sort by next year..now ive been looking at the clutches and i see stage 2 and 2+ and 3 and 3+ there is a huge price diffenrce from the normal ones to the + versions..why? and what stage should i get? Mods on the engine when it is in will be: intake, header, exhaust, light flywheel, mounts, light pulleys, B&M shifter, and maybe balance shaft delete...Im thinking a stage 2 would be fine....but want to be sure..as for driving its a summer driver...maybe summer daily..phil
what else is there to go with i thought there was spec and does bully make clutches for the 2003 getrags? phil
just bought/installed SPEC's stage 2 clutch and flywheel and i think the slave cylinder they gave me was sh@#
Liquidplamsa wrote:just bought/installed SPEC's stage 2 clutch and flywheel and i think the slave cylinder they gave me was sh@#
Yup, happened twice now. First slave wasn't from spec, but this one was, leaks on the clutch disk, destroys the face and the flywheel. This'll be the third clutch I've had to put in, in less than 6 months.
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OUCH! ................well I have never had any previous experience with spec but many of my friends use them in their cars and couldn't be happier so......thats why I got mine.
The slave is a GM product. I have been in contact with Spec. They said they get them from GM. I do not think the slave can handle the clutch and pressure plate.
FU Tuning
Ron's is the only one I've ever had a problem with...... I have a stage 3 in my '02, and a stage 4 in the drag car...... Mine even had trans fluid leaking on it for 6k miles, and is still fine.
IDK whats up with Ron's setup...... other then it started life as a auto
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
I have one and love it.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
can anyone look at my first post tho..what should i go with? or should i look away to other brands.phil
Spec lists a max TQ handling number in thier descriptions, get the clutch that will handle you future torque plans. And if you don't know how much torque you will be putting down with certain setups, RESEARCH and read around.
I Have a clutch masters Stage 3 now. I did have a stage 1. Either way, Have yet to have a problem with it. The stage 1 didn't die before I got the stage 3 either. The stage 1 has about 50k on it, and still works great. My stage 3 now have about 7k and it still works great too. Never had any problems. Nothing.
I like clutch masters.
Get the "+" plus series if you can afford it, you wont be disapointed. They are an awesome clutch. I have the SPEC stage 3+ and I would not use anything else.
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
whats the diff with the "+" clutches? cause im looking at either a 3 or a 2+
+ holds more torque.
Example
The Stage 3+ drives like a Stage 3 but clamps with the force of a 4 or 5. It's amazing.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Higgins is correct, the slave you get from Spec is a GM slave cylinder.
So, anyone wanna trade a brand new Stage 3 for a stage 3+?
muffin wrote:Higgins is correct, the slave you get from Spec is a GM slave cylinder.
So, anyone wanna trade a brand new Stage 3 for a stage 3+?
Stage 3 and some cash maybe LOL.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
hows the stage 3 for daily drivabilty? phil
Very easy to drive everyday. I wouldn't change clutches if someone bought me a new one. I simply love how smooth and easy this is to drive but how well it grabs when I go to the floor with the pedal.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Get no more torque capacity than your transmission can stand. Your flywheel is capable of dumping many hundreds of lbft of torque if you dump the clutch at high RPMs. This torque peak is better dissipated in the clutch than shearing off gears in your transmission or breaking axles. This way, the clutch can act as a circuit breaker and protect your driveline from massive torque spikes.
I've got a Stage 2 with the kevlar and it's great. It's rated at 275lbft of torque and I fully believe it. It grabs hard and the driveability is wonderful. The clutch pedal is now lighter than it was with the OEM clutch!
2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd
^Or dont dump the clutch with high revs since all that accomplishes is a burnout anyway.......if you build a motor for high torque numbers screw putting a weak clutch in to save the trans.....thats just one of those things that works its self out in the long run if you know what I mean......save up for more trannys :-)
You can also cryo treat gears and do a few other low dallor things to beef it up alittle but the most important thing to do is drive it properly.
Even a measly stage 2 holds 275lbft of torque. I'd hardly call that weak. If your motor can put that kind of torque down, hats off to you, but if your trans can't handle it, you're asking for trouble. In lower gears it might accomplish a burn out or tire chirp, but try it in gear 4 or 5 and you'll more than likely end up shearing something off. I don't mean dumping from a stop, I mean shifting at 6K and dropping it in the next gear. Massive torque spikes might shave a few hundredths off your ET, but when you factor in the shock your engine and transmission will suffer, it's not worth it.
2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd
Yah im going with the stage 2+ that is going to be just fine for my needs....if i run a supercharger or turbo i wont be running high boost till the other engine is built so either way i think the stage 2+ will be just fine..phil
