hello all.
im trying to see if i can find a cheap autotrans interceptor somewhere. i know they are out of business, but my plan is to reverse engineer the autotrans interceptor so they can be produced again by myself or some one else.
i know that most people with the autotrans are having a good expirience with them. i like this product over the b+m simply because you can change the stall time of the torque convertor. the only benefit i see to the b+m is that you can adjust it inside the vehilce.
my plan is simple. have to pot's that can be adjusted, one increasing the line pressure and the other decreasing the stall of the TC. the difference is, i would like to produce this to be adjustable inside the vehicle. i may even see if it can have an on and off switch similar to the b+m shift+, and possibly even 2 settings.
i would like to make this thing plug and play like the autotrans so install would be very easy, but worse comes to worse it would have to be splice.
I NEED YOUR HELP!
what i need is either a donated autotrans interceptor (even if its not finctioning it will help), a very very cheap one for sale, or measurments and diagrams of some one who has one. i would prefer to have a working one in front of me, but i'll take what i can get.
the device simply works on adding resistance on a line. i need to know which wire the resistance is being added on when you increase the line pressure. i would assume it would be the same as the b+m, so i can probably figure out the wire location from that, but i still need to know the value of the resistance. i need some one to take ohmic readings with an ohmmeter and tell me what the resistance is when the dial is set to 0%and what the value is when it is set to 100%.
i would really like to see if i can do this, and am anxious but nervous because i will probably have to use my car as a tester
anyways, thanks in advance.
email me if you need to robolivieri@hotmail.com
thanks again, rob o.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
You need the Delphi connectors if you want plug and play. I am 90% sure that if you go to the Delphi website they will send you a free catalog on the connectors.
I believe it the Ducon series connectors from Delphi you are looking for. At least in my Delphi book it looks like this series. Not sure exactly which part though. ~~shrugs~~ you could also reverse engineer the B&M and make it into the autotrans. They both do the same principle thing. Increase line pressure though resistance values. If I remember correctly. A linear pot or 2 should work fine.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
i would prefer to do it with the pots instead of resistor banks like the b and m use. the one thing is i dont think i would be able to have 2 setting on the thing plus an off switch. that would probably mean 2 sets of pots ( each set containing one for line pressure and another for the TC stall).
all i really need to know is how much resistance to put into it. once some one meters it for me, it should give me a start.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
If i had a autotrans i would. I might be able to get at my B&M, but theres a lot of heat shrink around my splices.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
ya atleast if i had the readings from the b&m that would give me a good basis to start on.
you dont have to go wrecking your hard work for this, its not that big of a deal.
thanks for the offer though.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
so no progress so far in this, thought i would try and bring it back from the dead. if anyone can get some ohmic values for me and some pics or diagrams for the autotrans and or the BnM, that would be great.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
if I could get ahold of one, I'd be happy to reverse engineer it, including drawing up schematics and finding the internal parts.
Desert Tuners
“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
thats what ive been trying to do. so far i have the plug schematic which is a hige help. by looking at the BnM install guides on here i figured out where you add the resistance to firm up the shifts by increasing the line pressure. the things i still need to know are as follows:
- how much resistance is added in before its too much resistance. i could figure this out by trial and error if need be, but i would prefer to have a starting point so i dont damage my tranny.
- where does the second pot for adjusting the TC lock up time go? i havent a clue which wires this function goes to. also i dont know the resistance it adds in to achieve this. if i can figure this out, i could rig up a crude proto type.
- where can i get the male and female plugs for the transmission? do i have to go to delphi or to GM or what? i would like to make this thing plug and play so i would need these plugs to make that possible.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
Delphi would be the place to go for the connectors, unless you want to go cut out a bunch from the junkyard. you're still looking at splicing a bunch of wires and it's not going to look good. getting the connectors from Delphi along with the contacts will help give you a much cleaner look. you might also look for any numbers on the connectors and google them, to see if another company carries them.
this thing sounds really simple. the input pins should match the output pins (not crossed to another pin inside the box). if you have a multimeter, find the input and output of the pot, and put your leads across it. if the pots are set at the factory, take the initial reading first, and then find the range of the pot. turn the pot all the way counter clockwise. this should be the minimum resistance reading. slowly start turning the pot clockwise and find your maximum resistance reading. be careful with turning the pot too far clockwise, because you can damage the it. all this info will help you in finding the pot that you need for this application. if you can get the box apart, you might find a part number on the pot itself. google those numbers, and you should find someone who sells them.
I've been an electronics tech for 10+ years. if I can't help you find the answers, I work closely with several engineers and they'll help me out.
Desert Tuners
“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
The Autotrans along with the B&M shift plus have urethane injected inside of the box so when you take it apart, you can not see any of the electronics or the circuitboard.... unless you know of a way to get rid of the urethane injection it will be hard to find out what they did to make it work...
damn it shifted, why do you have to go and burst my bubble. i never even thought about that. the thing is though, that if i were to produce this thing, it would be fairly modified from that of the autotrans. i want this thing fully accessable from inside the car. it doesnt matter if th tc pot is inside the car, but i atleast want the line pressure to be adjustable from inside the car.
and freq- i know that all that really needs to be done, but without having an autotrans or BnM avainable to me, i will not be able to meter them. i know what leads the line pressure increase is done across thanks to looking at the BnM install guides and the 20-pin connector diagram that some one posted on here a little while ago. the only thing i need is either some one else to meter the autotrans or to get my hands on one myself.
see even metering the BnM unit wouldnt be the greatest because i believe (not 100% sure) the BnM goes in parrallel on the 20-pin tranny plug.
and as for the urethane on the circuit borads, thats fine. a good metering will tell me what does what and give me enough to trace it back and come up with a schematic.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
last time i had a auto trans interceptor you could open it and view all the electronics
my 2 b&ms are pretty sealed
also , you only have to differ about 20% from the original , and your not infringing on the patent
ill have a spare b&m once i strip all my mods from my 00 cav
that would work for atleast figuring out where to start for resistance values, but i still want to be able to controll the tc lock up time like the autotrans. and without having any detailed pics and readings or an autotrans infront or me to pick at, thats not going to happen.
even if some one could meter it for me, that would be great. all i need to know is the max and min values for both pots. lets say theres 4 leads... take lead 1, meter lead 1-2, 1-3, and 1-4 with the pots at min and then at max. then meter lead 2-3, and 2-4 at min and max. take lead 3-4 measurements with both pots at min and max. then take some pics for me if you can and i should be able to do the rest.
im really just looking for some simple metering here for help. thats all i really need.
even the readings from a BnM unit would help out for a start, but im looking to do more with this thing. thanks for the help so far guys, i just need a little bit more.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
Well couldnt ya buy one then jsut desolder the contacts for the knobs and put wires form the knob to the board then run the knobs to the interior.
I woudl for sure buy one if you coudl regulate the stall and pressure form the cabin. The b&m i got is damn nice but if I coudl get a higher stall without gettign the torque converter that woudl be great.
Disclaimer:
Dey see me Trollin' Dey hatin' for trollin dey trying to catch me ridin dirty.
sorry, if i said the TC stall i used the wrong word. what i mesnt was the lock up time. the only way to change the stall speed of a torque convertor is to rip it out and install a new one.
apparently there was a problem with the autotrans with the adjustable TC delay. something about them not functioning 100% properly. i dont really buy it, but i dont have any proof.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
if I can get Eric's (97cavieLS) once he takes it out of his car, I can do all the metering and let you know.
I'm not gonna buy it from him though. I don't need it.
Desert Tuners
“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
whitegoose wrote:apparently there was a problem with the autotrans with the adjustable TC delay. something about them not functioning 100% properly. i dont really buy it, but i dont have any proof.
I've heard that rumour too... but I never understood it, because I ran an interceptor on three cars, 100% line pressure on each... shortest TC lock up delay possible... NEVER HAD A PROBLEM...
I'm looking for an interceptor for ya... I need one for my 4T65EHD now anyway
I found one listed on Ebay... I've bid on it, hopefully I win it
Then we'll do some work on the engineering stuff
I need a 4T65EHD version
lol lenko is it the one with the jumpers? cause thats the one im bidding on too.
that one with the jumpers has no TC delay. apparently thats the new one. the guy selling that one said he used to work for autotrans and was the one who told me that the TC delay ones have a problem. he said it usually depends on the year and engine. some of the 4t40s are fine, others are not.
Quote:
>No you can't wire in a pot.
>More complicated than that (A little trim pot could not carry the current
>of
>a TCC solenoid)
>This interceptor is a completely new design. (Completely new board)
>A seris of 4 resistors that you place in series or series parallel through
>the use of 4 jumpers and also an inductor to keep heat down.
>The TCC Delay feature was discontinued.
>Unfortunately the company that built this is also discontinued. (Closed)
>Again I say
>You cannot delay TCC on a 4T40E or a 4t65E as the WCM is monitoring things
>through various other sensors.
>When it does not see expected ratio it will ramp up the PWM (Modulated) TCC
>solenoid to overcome what it thinks is slip the when it does apply.....
>WHAM
>After this happens a few times a code is set, on comes your check engine
>light and the trans goes to a default mode (High line pressure and late
>shifts maybe even aborting 4Th).
>If you locate an early interceptor that has TCC adjustment, don't buy it.
>In addition to the TCC adjustment (Which you could turn completely down for
>no affect) the line pressure control is poor, it gets too hot and can set
>codes and again put the Trans in default mode. In addition to the above the
>early interceptor will not work with later models (I think around 1999) as
>they went to an internal gear shift lever sensor which meant more wires
>were
>needed. If you install an early style interceptor into a later vehicle it
>will not even start (The engine).
thats the email he sent me. i would really like to rebuild this thing. i mean, the autotrans seems really good, but if it was adjustable from inside the car it would be a hell of alot better. thats the main thing i want to achieve with this redesign. maybe even have a little more resistance in it, because i know ive heard some people complain about it not being enough (crazy mofos).
im glad more of you are interested in this now. it makes me all warm inside that i have some smart people helping me
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
Hmm... let's see... where can I blow holes in that email?
I had one of the first Interceptors... bought in 2000... installed on my 2000 Cavalier Z24... worked flawlessly, never through a code... ever.... it had the twin pots, and it worked great. It certainly did delay the TCC lockup, if I wanted it to.
He's right about one thing... the wiring does change in either 2001 or 2002.. but not substantially. I have the pin-outs if you really want them. (GM service DVD)
I think he's feeding you lines... if he really worked for Autotrans... why can't he tell you how to control the thing properly? Maybe he's just one of the shop lackeys, that stole the last bit of product before they went under
My ex-g/f used to work for them out in BC... the Port Coquitlam depot. She was just another lackey that knew nothing
lmfao @ your ex.
ya i have a feeling its a pitch to get me to buy his.he said he worked tech support for them. anyways the item is done. i already have the pin outs that you (i think it was you) posted up a little while ago when somee one asked for the 20-pin connnection diagram. i know where the b and m wires to, so that helps where you add the resistance for the firmer shifts. the one thing i dont know is where exactly the TC delay goes.
i mean by the pin out that you posted i can take an educated guess, but wars have been won and lost on an educated guess. i would prefer to KNOW. next is what the values are. i also dont know if the autotrans is series resistance or parrallel resistance. im pretty sure the BnM is parrallel, so the values would be alot higher than if the resistance was series. (Ohms Law, parrallel resistance bull@!#$)
there is a few different ways to go about this though. like ive said before, i want to make this adjustable from inside the vehicle. i can either make it a parrallel wiring or a series wiring, but i guess that is going to be semi dependant onhow the metering and the brake down of the original interceptor is. ive found a pretty cool location for this thing though. i want to take a molding of the cup holder thats on the underside of the center console lid. stick it in there with velcro so its removable and the wire harness will also allow it to be unclipped and completely removed from the cup holder placement. i figure thats a good spot because its out of the way, hidden, and still very accessible for when adjustments are needed. stero pots seem to be the best item to use, they can handle some hefty power too.
i dunno, just some ideas.
oh, and btw, lenko, your bumper is the best one ive seen. its not stock, but its the one that looks like it belongs the most. very sharp.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
John Lenko wrote:She was just another lackey that knew nothing
well obviously if she aint with "teh lenko" anymore.
anyway this sounds like a good idea. i just got my interceptor in the mail yesterday, i would love one thats controlable from inside.
FOR SALE: (5) '95-'99 Z24 Rims
I just bought a used Autotrans Interceptor for the 4T65E-HD... which I'll be using on the engine swap... but if you want me to take some pics with it apart.... and some electrical measurements... I'm all for it!!
I'll be playing with it... hopefully extending the pots to be able to control it from inside the cabin
...j
Open, desolder pots, solder in wire on pot terminals on the board and to the pot itself
Reseal the box. Done
