I'm down here in Key West with my 2003, and there is only one transmission place. They are really nice guys, but my car is baffling them.

Almost two weeks ago, my clutch went to the floor. Had my car towed to Paradise Transmission. They changed the slave, and put in a cermanic clutch (new to me, similar to a Spec 3 acording a clutch depot in Miami). They called me yesterday saying the car was ready. $1200 (only show in town), but I was happy to have my car.

Clutch was much softer than orginal. Was not happy about that as I'm used to a firm clutch. First time I went to third gear, chirp. I figured it was me. Moved the floor mat to ensure I was going to the floor. Next shift to third. . . GRIND! I turn the car around and take back to Paradise Transmission. They say then knew about that, but thought it already had that problem. (wouldn't I have told them about other problems I was having with a Transmission since they had my car a week??? The car was mint before I lost the cluthc pedal) I ask them to bleed the slave again. They try three or four times. I could hear it sucking air near the resevoir, they say they'll look at it. I tell them to call me when it works, and called a ride home.

Last night I searced this forum on bleeding procedures, printed all of them and took the procedures to the transmission place. They are going to try pinning the clutch down over night as posted here.

Is there anything else I'm missing to help them get my car working? Could it be the Master? Should the clutch feel firmer?

What would be the symptons of a bad Master? The clutch was pinned down for 8 hours, still no luck.

First of all, it's a BAD idea to be beating on a brand new clutch. You have to let it break in first. 800-1000 miles of CITY driving should be enough.

SHOoff wrote:First of all, it's a BAD idea to be beating on a brand new clutch. You have to let it break in first. 800-1000 miles of CITY driving should be enough.

SHOoff, thank you for the reply. I haven't figured out what you mean by "BEATING" on a new clutch? When I wrote Chirp, I should have written, slight grind, but it sounded like the gear chriped. At the time of the post, I drove the car not more than a mile before I returned it to Transmisson place. I'm all about babying a new clutch, especially a cermanic.

A current update. I have a stick made to hold the clutch down at night. After 24 hours, it was a little foaming out the bleeder, then a stream after another pump. It still slightly grinds third (like a small chirp). The clutch is slowly getting firmer. What a PITA this Getrag bleeding is.

When i had mine replaced, it wouldnt go into gear at all (it went in like 3 or 4 times total in 2 days of trying), took it to a different place, ripped it apart, changed it all, and after changing the clutch and slave again as well as going back to my stock flywheel, it works now, but ive got a Duralast Autozone Clutch in the car, with an ACT Clutch and Fidanza flywheel im not using. I'm thinking it was the new slave (may have been bad), and changing it worked, but the place didnt want to deal with it again. Anyway, the place told me that there was a new bleeding procedure which involved a pump of some sort on top of the reservoir, and sucks the air out from the top. worked in my case atleast.

Ender_Wiggin wrote:..... Anyway, the place told me that there was a new bleeding procedure which involved a pump of some sort on top of the reservoir, and sucks the air out from the top. worked in my case atleast.

I wonder if the dealer would do this? I'm leaving Key West for three weeks tomorrow and I'll be in Jacksonville, which has Chevy Dealers. I have bleed my clutch so many times, and it sometimes gets close, but then just a little more bleeding, it goes back to grinding in 3rd.

I just found something very interesting with a Google search . . .

GM issued a service bulletin, 01-07-31-002A, with an updated bleeding procedure for the clutch system on this vehicle. It involves repeatedly applying and releasing 15 to 20 inches of vacuum on the reservoir, using a hand vacuum pump and adapter, until no more bubbles appear and the fluid level no longer drops. The idea is to pull any air from the hydraulic release bearing, up the tube and into the reservoir -- more effectively bleeding the system.

So I googled the S/B, and. . . I just need the parts listed.

Date: September, 2004

INFORMATION
Subject:
Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System

Models:
2005 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2005 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2005 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).

This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.
1. Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.

2. Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.

3. Remove the reservoir cap.

4. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.

5. Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac) or equivalent.

Important: Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.

6. Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.

7. Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.

8. Refill the reservoir to the proper level.

9. Repeat Steps 6 and 7.

10. If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.

Caution: The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see it the transmission will shift easily into gear.

11. Pump clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).

12. Add additional fluid if needed.

13. Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.

i believe thats the one that i found from Alldata when the shop told me that.

Well, bleeding the clutch with the vacuum didn't work either. It looked promising as plenty of air bubbles came out, but still grinds going into third gear.

Any body know what else I can try?

What would be the symtpons of a bad Master?

What about shirter cables?

Could my syncros be bad just for third gear, but yet works sometimes?

If any one has any ideas, please, I'll try anything.

The 3rd gear syncro could be going bad. Does it still grind if you double clutch it for 3rd gear?

SHOoff wrote:The 3rd gear syncro could be going bad. Does it still grind if you double clutch it for 3rd gear?

Welcome back SHOoff, as a definition for double clutch, if you mean using the clutch once to pull it out of 2nd, then use the clutch to go into third (really slow process), yes it still grinds. Does that mean anything?

I have read and read and read. Could it be possible be the slave?

Another thing, there is little specs of black in the reservoir. Maybe a seal is bad some where. I had asked the Transmission place in KW about it and they said they did clean it out.

In troubleshooting any system, cause and effect. I never had a problem going into 3rd until after I blew the first slave. And after bleeding, sometimes it is better, then I’ll bleed it again, and it gets worse. Basically, bleeding does effect 3rd.

Another interesting fact to add to this mystery. I can shift into 3rd with no clutch, no grind if the RPM is between 2K and 2.3K. That tells me that the syncros are good.

I'm still wondering what the signs of a bad Master is? Maybe it is not giving enough line pressure.

Something is definately failing. I can not downshift into 3rd anymore, unless I wait until the engine RPMs are exactly at 2300. I only have a week left on the mainland before drying back into the middle of the ocean (KW), so if anyone has any ideas, I need them.

Would the transmission fluid need to be changed if they changed the clutch? Thinking maybe they put the wrong fluid in.

...

Well, I changed the fluid over the past hour. The fluid coming out smelled like ATF. I put in Pennzoil Synchromesh since I could get it from Auto Zone while I'm here in Jacksonville. But, still grinds slightly going into third. I want to try Redline MTL as I have read that this has fixed peoples gears grinding.

I wish someone had an idea for me.