I have an 03 sunfire and now that i have my exhaust put on it seems like im always upshifting and downshifting manually....Is that bad and how bad and destrutive is it if at all???
P.M
manually as in moving the shirfter or going far enough down on the throttle to force a downshift??
"Official Jewish J-Body"
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"Official Jewish J-Body"
ive abused mine with downshifts for over 200 k and its still alive *shrug* it wont make it go any faster to shift it manualy but sometimes if you are driving more spirited then nornmal you can help slow the car with the trans a little
99 Turbo Sunfire GT | Ram 2500 | International Rollback | Mr Hanky the Suburban
i;d love to see the inside of your transmission.
Roscoe wrote:ive abused mine with downshifts for over 200 k and its still alive *shrug* it wont make it go any faster to shift it manualy but sometimes if you are driving more spirited then nornmal you can help slow the car with the trans a little
while still alive you did run into problems...
Quote:
Re: Automatic transmission slipping from 1st to 2n Quote Reply
Roscoe
Today 12:45 AM
Mine did this. hell sometimes id put it in drive try to go and it would slip in 1st. i did a trans service (filter and fluid change) NOT FLUSH!!! then i installed a $30 trans cooler. that solved that problem for the most part. i added a b&m shift plus and havent had a single problem since and my trans has over 200k on it!
not exactly good if you are slippin in first.... that means you;ve worn the hell outta something.
shift plus is a temp fix to the problem, you can keep turning the pressure up.
granted its an easy bandaid fix, just proves doing what you did causes damage
if you wanna help slow the car down, simply let off the gas. easier way and no gas is used, old racing trick
ive shift both of my cavs since the day i got them , 1 has 86k the other has 98k
my 00 has had problems since the day i got it at 74k and the dealer kept saying nothing was wrong tell i was outside of their 90 day used car warrenty
but ive beat the crap out of it and have the shift plus on it , and its still going , and ill be adding a trans cooler with fan to it soon , then once it finially goes its 5spd swap time
but if it was bad to shift a auto manually , the factory wouldnt give you the extra positions on the gear selector
aslo there wouldnt be cars out there with manual shift options
the shifting is made for if you tow a trailer or have a heavy load.... this is in the manual you get with the car in the glove compartment. in case you need to.
basically people here are shifting their cars to race with em.... none of these cars in the j-body range were meant for racing, or to stand up to the higher temps and stresses of racing.
when one wants to have a racing car, you build the engine to handle it.
when one wants a suspension that handles you build the suspension up to handle that
when one wants to shift a transmission with stock parts and not really meant to shift... you build up the transmission.
as it stands the clutches and bands are not of great quality. its on an economy car. economy parts. in the 3 or 4 speed tranny.
the reason why most are putting shift pluses and auto transinterceptors on is merely because it was or is slipping, meaning you;ve worn the clutches and bands significantly there is a need to firm things up. over time you can keep adjusting the pressure higher, but it still doesnt stop the bands and clutches from wearing quicker as opposed to a set of bands and clutches meant to handle the abuse
actually firmer and quicker shifts extends the life of the trans
it equals less slipping of the clutches and less heat genarated due to the slipping clutches
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM cav sedan™)]actually firmer and quicker shifts extends the life of the trans
it equals less slipping of the clutches and less heat genarated due to the slipping clutches
yup i know this... hence the reason i got mine rebuild with a higher pressure pump and manual valve body upgrade....
however, for those shifting and racing.... cant really shift more accurate than an auto. and for those who are racing and shifting, generating heat....of which heat is the main killer of fluids and transmission parts in itself..... its doing more wear and tear than would with a transmission built for it.
keep in mind higher pressure, firms the shift, however also means more temp rise.... majority of the people asking this, dont have a guage to even know how things are goin, nor a cooler to keep it down.
even with a large cooler on mine, i still pass over 195 at times...
Increasing line pressure kills hard parts (like solenoids) quicker. Thankfully, the 4T40E is a pretty reliable piece of work... so they're much harder to kill than say.... 4T60E... taxicabs go thru those like a hot knife thru butter
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I used to do this maybe once a month when I was 17. It's definitely not there on auto's for this to be done though, and I can't believe I used to do it very occasionally. Go get an 05 five speed while you still can if you want to shift.
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Words that you can't use in modding: Finished, Perfect, Cheap.
John Lenko wrote:so they're much harder to kill than say.... 4T60E...
AH I do have some experience with the 4t60 and the 4t60e. In my 93 Lumina Euro the 4t60e was excellent I was young and did neutral drops and such with it and it was fine. BUT It was a 3.1, so it handles the 140hp and 185lbs of tq easy. But in the 99 Olds intrigue my wife had the tranny went out a couple times. It was a 4t60e mated to a series 2 3.8 which is 205hpish and 220lbsish. The 4t60 I had on my 92 z34 sucked too. The 4t60/4t60e are ok but cannot hold more than 200hp/200tq area without a good building. On a side note, I have the 3spd auto in my Cavy. How does it compare to the 4t40 in terms of shifting and lifespan.
3 speed (3t40) can hang with if not surpass the 4 speed if taken care of...
less parts and also electronic controls will usually need a sensor replaced before the manual shifting tranny goes wrong.... on avg... that all depends on how people take care of things...
although the 4 speed has more gearing options...
both have their advantages.
