Ok, here goes. Some of you may have read the article in Sport Compact Car about the Turbo Sport Cavalier. But did you notice the times the car ran at the track? It said 0-60 at 7.5 sec. and the 1/4 at 15.4 at 91.3 mph. These are the mods: 8.6:1 compression(down from 10:1), ported head, Garrett T28 turbo, Spearco intercooler, 2.5in exhaust, ECU reflash, W-body fuel pump, Fel-Pro 36lb/hr injectors. The car was running 8psi. On the dyno, it turned 182hp at 6000rpm. The stock one put down 128 on the dyno. Is there something missing here, or is it the location in which they tested it, or what? According to this site, there are N/A ecos running the 1/4 in the 14s, and this TURBO eco is hardly close...WTF...could someone shed some light on this for me?
2003 LS Sport: Weapon R intake, Ported TB, and Underdrive Pulley...for now...
big rims, big bodykit, and probably a big stereo.
and they probably were running some really mild boost because its a show car and they dont want to break it
small turbo, low compression with mild boost and everything he said above ^^ sounds like the problems
agreed with what they said
that and a T28 is pretty small for us
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
ok so im curious everyone says that turbos are too small blah blah blah. What do most people make on 8psi on a stock eco with their sto called "big turbos"? I mean im always open for being corrected. I have an incredibly tiny turbo and i cant see why everyone bad mouths small turbos. Our motors are not large so why is a small turbo so bad. Top end might suffer i actually am only running 8psi on a .42 .48turbo. I went to ams to get dynos and i dyno'd 203hp 224ft/lb first run 203hp 223ft/lb second run and 206hp 229ft/lb third run. One after another. This was on a 11.7:1 air fuel ratio. I hear everyone saying that a t3 super 60's are too small. To small for what amount of boost? I plan to prove most people wrong within the next couple of months. Im making another kit with the same turbo my goal is to put out the most hp with 8psi as i can. Hahn is selling their stage 3 kit for like 3400 bucks and i think its crap as in price. IM building kits to produce same hp for fractions of the cost. At current turbos are not quality but for the time being they do boost and ive had 0 problems over the past year with them. After my kits are designed with the poopy turbos im gonna move for honeywell vnt turbos and sell kits. I dont believe in all this mumbo jumbo of using that big of a turbo on stock internals now when rebuilding with head mods i would use a bigger turbo but for now we shall see what the future brings. I plan on selling kits this upcoming spring and hope to sell to a few test subjects to see how they like it. Currently you need to spend 3400 dollars to max out your stock internals with my kit and spend tons less. Kit will include a true garrett turbo and everything to run 12psi. I plan to compete with a few companies out their for the "budget turbo kit" but by no means to rip or degrade other companies for they have vast superiority over myself with techs, fabs, and what not.
*2012 mazdaspeed3*
Oy.... you people and your turbo sizing.... a T28 depending on trim and/or housing size would be plenty for 220-250 whp. So is it a monster turbo? No, but more than adequate for what most people on here will run.
Anyway, the "problem" as you perceive it is the fact that OEM's will tend to leave their turbo cars tuned very conservatively and WELL within the efficiency range of the turbo for that perfect 100K mile + reliability.
Example... On my car, the K03 Sport turbo built by BorgWarner is recommended for 15-16 psi MAXIMUM. VW runs it at 6 psi on the 150 hp variants and 13 psi peak on the 180 hp models. I run 20 psi, and my ecu programming advances the timing quite a bit to attain 221 wheel hp at 5500 rpm. All told, if i had done everything right the first time, I would have gone from 130-something wheel hp( mine was the 150 hp version) to 221 whp with less than $1000 in modifications. To be honest, if i wanted to sacrifice a lot of my partial throttle driveability, i could have run a diode in the map sensor wiring and a manual boost controller and achieved similar numbers for only $40.25 (i actually did run this way for a while, but having a computer think its running 10 psi when its really running 20 on a drive by wire throttle leads to a lot of surging at anything but wide open throttle).
Its a similar situation to the Saab turbo engines, they are conservatively tuned out of the factory to keep insurance costs down, and reliability incredibly high, but are also very easy to extract more power from.
Long story short, its not so important to examine a turbo cars stock hp, but rather take into account engine size, and turbo maximum flow... if the turbo sport had been released it could have been in the 13's for less than $1000 i bet, maybe even significantly less.... tell me any other j-body that managed to do that without nitrous.
Oh, and as to the acceleration numbers---- never take magazine tests with anything more than a grain of salt... First off, mags generally run their 0-60 tests as a "average of 3 runs" and normally will leave tire pressure at the stock spec. SCC also runs their 0-60 tests at a dragstrip in californina that is known for horrible traction, and likewise driving skill also plays into 0-60 testing, none of SCC's crew are drag racers, they are road/rally/autoxers.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
^ probably Ca speedway. lol
...yeah it was the Cali Dragstrip...i thought that might have something to do with it.
2003 LS Sport: Weapon R intake, Ported TB, and Underdrive Pulley...for now...
