Ok well the other day i was on my way to the gas station and i ran out of gas on the way and the car died compleatly... then about a day after i go to give it against a buddys Supra and i got HUGE power loss and a horrible bogging noise when the gauge went from Vacum to boost...
Now about a week ago i had my car in the shop and i guess my computer was shot and it was still warentyed so they replaced it and i am wondering if they f-ed up on the reflash?
Any one else have any suggestions?
It runs fine as long as i stay out of boost and some time it will run ok when im in boost but not very often... could it be a bad injector(s) or bad fuel pump? maybe even a clogged fuel filter (even though it was changed about 1500kms ago)
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
oh and a nother thing... some times it wont even let me go past 5000rpm.. my revs like bounce off 5000... and when i get this bogging no matter how hard i put my foot into it it wont go up in speed or RPM...
ahah and im sure you guy know what supercharger i have by now but its a GM superchagrer on a 2001 sunfire
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
map sensor problem?
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
I know when my car hit boost and it bogged bad was bad spark plugs, even though they were fresh OEM ones. Changed the plugs again and problem went away.
humm thanks for thoughs two things... ill check em out... the Map sensor should show up with a check engine light right? there for when i scan it, it should show?
Spark plugs i guess the only way to test them is to look at them? they arent to much so maybe ill just change them
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
I bought 4 new plugs from the dealer and 3 were pregapped to .040 and one was .035. I thought what the hell and try gapping all 4 to .035. The car sputtered AS SOON AS boost came on. Regapped the plugs to my normal .032 and same damn thing. Threw the old plugs in gapped at .032 and all was good. Go figure, lol, and this was right before I was on my way to the track.
Josh F wrote:humm thanks for thoughs two things... ill check em out... the Map sensor should show up with a check engine light right? there for when i scan it, it should show?
Spark plugs i guess the only way to test them is to look at them? they arent to much so maybe ill just change them
you have to remember with OBDII, there are a lot of things that will shoot off a problem code (not necessarily a CEL) but a trouble code that when you scan, it notifies you of odd activity and sometimes a diagnosis recommendation
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Put it on the TECH2 and see what MAP readings, ect that you're getting. Running out of gas sucks up all the crap at the bottom of the tank, which can lead to plugging the filter up.
O noes!
dumb question.....but after running out of gas...you put premium back in right?
Portage, MI
We ran into somthing like this on my friends firebird. He ran out of gas, filled up and it runs ok up to about 4500 then just falls on its face, we replaced the sock in the tank, it was just nasty, and then the inline. No problems since.
Emry
96 Camaro A4 383 12.5:1, E85, Full suspension, Nitrous outlet plate kit, hooker headers and catback, 3800 circle D converter.
2002 Silverado LQ4 6.0 CAI, Long tube headers, 4" exhaust
1996 s10- 97 ECU and wiring, soon to be boosted daily driver.
i bet they didnt reflash it with the s/c program
so at part throttle the motor runs all right cause the map hasnt gone into the boost section of the map
then when you hit boost the pcm doesnt know how to respond
also i change the filter its fairly cheap and easy to do
Fuel Filter. Most likely the case. That's what happens when you run low in the tank and get empty. It takes all the crap in the bottom of the tank and runs it into the filter. I would be willing to bet my left nut that that is what is wrong. And if I am wrong then take my right nut away.
ahah ok well im putting in my new/used fuel pump from my dads car this week end any way so ill check the fuel filter ahah and i will hold you to that bet David ahaah just kidding...
But i hope thats all it is or else this could ruin the plans of putting the turbo on with in the next following weeks
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
My car did the same thing when I ran it out of gas. I put gas back in the car, and then a few days later the car started bogging and falling on its face when it got into boost. I also noticed that the fuel pressure would drop sometimes. Pulled the spark plugs, and they were white.I came to the conclusion that it was the fuel pump. I guess that when you run out of gas, it screws up the pump.
Mike Karas had similar problems. He ran out of gas, put fuel back in the tank, and the fuel pump stopped working.
Check your plugs after the car bogs to see if they are white.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
so white is bad? i though a little bit of white was fine?
but yea ill check my plugs..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
a little bit of white is ok. but when all of it is white... you are running dangerously lean
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Ok so it was not the fuel pump or the fuel filter...
What sensors could it be? as with my luck thats what it is...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
When you run out of gas the pump no longer cools itself. So if you try to start the car with no gas, it can melt the pump.
Maybe you have a clogged cat?
Peter
'06 Cobalt ss/sc W/G85 Package
Gm Stage II W/2.79" Pulley
K&N Drop In Filter
Custom Magnaflow Dual Exhaust
Both the reflash scenario and the fuel pump scenario seem likely. id try the fuel pump first since it happened after you ran out of gas.
In loving memory of Kasey
*2012 mazdaspeed3*
Sunfires rule! (Tom) wrote:When you run out of gas the pump no longer cools itself. So if you try to start the car with no gas, it can melt the pump.
But wouldnt that mean it would not work all the time? it works perfectly as long as i stay out of boost... as soon as i see the needle creep over the 0 marker into boost it starts to act up..
ptrblkz24 wrote:Maybe you have a clogged cat?
again wouldnt that be all the time then? not just when i see boost
Respooled2k3 wrote:Both the reflash scenario and the fuel pump scenario seem likely. id try the fuel pump first since it happened after you ran out of gas.
In loving memory of Kasey
I pulled the pump out today and it looked fine.. nothing looked out of the ordinary.. sock was fine to and there was no sign of it being clogged by crap that it sucked up from it going empty.. i even pulled the fuel filter off and blew threw it and it wasnt clogged at all..
David Alameda (Zspeedcav) wrote:Fuel Filter. Most likely the case. That's what happens when you run low in the tank and get empty. It takes all the crap in the bottom of the tank and runs it into the filter. I would be willing to bet my left nut that that is what is wrong. And if I am wrong then take my right nut away.
Does this mean your right nut is now mine?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Put the stock MAP back on. See what that does for you.
O noes!
Smokey wrote:Put the stock MAP back on. See what that does for you.
Well wont i run lean then? and risk blowing things ?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
no actually i think you are now the proud owner of slightly used, left and right match pairs of nuts !!!
everyone pls make yourselves available for a moment of silence to morn the loss of a one Mr David Alameda (Zspeedcav) nuts,
would anyone like to say a few words
why not replace the fuel filter? it is 8$ and you allready had it off.?
good luck.