Anyone know more about these or how they work
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Truly they are a blow off valve, but are called Diverter valves. They just route the air back into the intake, but still allows the pressure to release. You can actually do the same thing with most Blow off valves.
FU Tuning
yeah greddy sells tubes that fit on the end of there BOV to recicukalate back to the intake.
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! 
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VW's love diverter valves.
engines that have a MAF have to use a bypass / diverter valve to prevent ugly fuel rich backfires. some retards replace them with a bov to destroy their cats and draw attention to their otherwise stock cars.
99 Turbo Sunfire GT | Ram 2500 | International Rollback | Mr Hanky the Suburban
how can i do the same thing with a BOV? my BOV is adjustable but im really not sure what that even means theres a screw on it and i messed with it once before it seemed like the screw clockwise closed the valve up and i seemed to get boost faster, and with it all the way loosened out counterclockwise I didnt seem to make boost until higher rpm than normal
I'm thinking about the diverter valve setup because it helps maintain pressure, Im running a vortech centrifigal blower right now with a vortech BOV, what I dont like about it is when i shift 100% of the pressure is dumped out the intake tube and then when i get back on it into the next gear the pressure needs to build again, im not sure where the output of the diverter valve should be plugged into
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Rodimus Prime wrote:how can i do the same thing with a BOV? my BOV is adjustable but im really not sure what that even means theres a screw on it and i messed with it once before it seemed like the screw clockwise closed the valve up and i seemed to get boost faster, and with it all the way loosened out counterclockwise I didnt seem to make boost until higher rpm than normal
I'm thinking about the diverter valve setup because it helps maintain pressure, Im running a vortech centrifigal blower right now with a vortech BOV, what I dont like about it is when i shift 100% of the pressure is dumped out the intake tube and then when i get back on it into the next gear the pressure needs to build again, im not sure where the output of the diverter valve should be plugged into
Depending on your BOV you can hook a hose, or pipe to it and route it back into the intake system. As for where, I'm not really sure.
The adjustment on your BOV adjust how easily it opens. Usually it will say Soft and Hard. This can sometimes adjust the sounds, but the more important part is how soon and much it releases of the pressure. The purpose in the BOV/Diverter valve is to keep pressure out of the intake track so the boost does not back-up to the compressor of the turbo and cause issues. The BOV does this and gives you the sound soo many have come to love. A Diverter valve does this with really no sound. I believe the first gen DSM BOV's can do either as well (but not 100
.
FU Tuning
UGH... this forum is so sad.
Rodimus. You have a supercharger. Your boost is instantaneus reguardless if you have a BOV or not. The BOV on your setup vents excess boost pressure, not in the sense that a turbo does. Whether or not you have a diverter valve will affect nothing.
There are two reasons to run a diverter valve:
1. You don't want as much noise
2. You have a MAF based car and the VOLUME of incoming charge air is measured
you have neither, so don't worry about it.
Pressurized air can remain in the charge pipe when the throttle plate closes - thereby making a BOV necessary (in reference to the s/c setup that both Rodimus and I have). The diverter valve, VW's and Audi's use diverter valves because the computer must account for all the air that is present in the system (those tricky MAF's). The retards that put BOV's on their engines screw up their readings and mess up the a/f ratio, just like Roscoe said.
As for the Vortech BOV - Rodimus, RSM told me that it comes already adjusted for use. I had no idea that you could change the settings. Any more details besides which way you turned the screw? I'm curious since my car will soon be on the road..
Blown.
Roscoe wrote:engines that have a MAF have to use a bypass / diverter valve to prevent ugly fuel rich backfires. some retards replace them with a bov to destroy their cats and draw attention to their otherwise stock cars.
common misconception with cars that have maf sensors if you place the aftermarket bov before the maf you will not encounter this problem.
*2012 mazdaspeed3*
okay this is what is going to solve your problem in both worlds....
okay here it is ....
you need a good sequential BOV ..... under high boost it will blow off sequentially.... if you just boost to max and let off the gas without chaning gears it wil be like tstststststststsstststststtstsstststs....(for a long time). if you blow off and change gears.... the blow off valve only has as much time as your shift takes to release pressure thus keeping air in the charge pipes when you shift..........my bov goes for a good 5 seconds when I change and let it go off...... when I rip it though the gear it blows off and then I hit 5 psi instantly on my boost gauge when I floor it again ..... I spin A lot ....
mmmmmmmmmm sequential...... mmmmm
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
mmmmmmmmmmmmmm
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
Lee wrote:okay this is what is going to solve your problem in both worlds....
okay here it is ....
you need a good sequential BOV ..... under high boost it will blow off sequentially.... if you just boost to max and let off the gas without chaning gears it wil be like tstststststststsstststststtstsstststs....(for a long time). if you blow off and change gears.... the blow off valve only has as much time as your shift takes to release pressure thus keeping air in the charge pipes when you shift..........my bov goes for a good 5 seconds when I change and let it go off...... when I rip it though the gear it blows off and then I hit 5 psi instantly on my boost gauge when I floor it again ..... I spin A lot ....
mmmmmmmmmm sequential...... mmmmm
Lee
Ugh. Ricer. Sequential BOV's are for "sound only". They don't help you in any way compared to a normal BOV. PLEASE READ UP ON SUCH THINGS. You're doing nothing but promoting the ricer mindset.
YOU DON'T WANT AIR IN YOUR CHARGE PIPES ON A SHIFT. That air goes BACKWARDS thru the turbo and STALLS the turbo, preventing it from spinning. That means LONGER spin up times for the next gear. The whole point of a BOV is to PREVENT That. You want NOTHING in your charge pipes on shift, you want a vacuum if anything. That way the turbo is still SPINNING when you shift.
But again to reiterate NONE OF THIS APPLIES TO RODIMUS. HE HAS A SUPERCHARGER. It spins INSTANTLY. There is no "need" to have it "keep spinning" like a BOV.
The Vortech he has is to prevent EXCESS pressure WHILE boosting AND shifting. The point of preventing EXCESS is to "limit" boost since Superchargers don't have wastegates like a turbo does. That way you don't run more boost then you want. The point of preventing it while shifting is to increase the life of the superchargers bearings by preventing that backpressure.
But it does NOTHING for the spool. Ugh. Please before anyone bothers throwing their useless two cents in, read this.
the problem im trying to fix is the fact that when i shift at 6500 i go from 6psi back down to 2-3 at 4000 then it builds again, if there was a way that I can maintain that 6psi between shifts thats what im looking for
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Rodimus Prime wrote:the problem im trying to fix is the fact that when i shift at 6500 i go from 6psi back down to 2-3 at 4000 then it builds again, if there was a way that I can maintain that 6psi between shifts thats what im looking for
That is the difference between a turbo set-up and a supercharger set-up. Chargers build boost as RPM climbs. Your engine is turning the charger. With a turbo the exhaust gases spin the turbo.
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:Rodimus Prime wrote:the problem im trying to fix is the fact that when i shift at 6500 i go from 6psi back down to 2-3 at 4000 then it builds again, if there was a way that I can maintain that 6psi between shifts thats what im looking for
That is the difference between a turbo set-up and a supercharger set-up. Chargers build boost as RPM climbs. Your engine is turning the charger. With a turbo the exhaust gases spin the turbo.
Man I'm glad someone understands this... Thanx John for reaffirming my faith in humanity.
Rodimus there isn't anything to "fix". you have a supercharger, that's how it works.
When Protonus speaks.....U heffers listen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I heart Jim.
Protonus wrote:
Ugh. Ricer. Sequential BOV's are for "sound only". They don't help you in any way compared to a normal BOV. PLEASE READ UP ON SUCH THINGS. You're doing nothing but promoting the ricer mindset.
YOU DON'T WANT AIR IN YOUR CHARGE PIPES ON A SHIFT. That air goes BACKWARDS thru the turbo and STALLS the turbo, preventing it from spinning. That means LONGER spin up times for the next gear. The whole point of a BOV is to PREVENT That. You want NOTHING in your charge pipes on shift, you want a vacuum if anything. That way the turbo is still SPINNING when you shift.
But again to reiterate NONE OF THIS APPLIES TO RODIMUS. HE HAS A SUPERCHARGER. It spins INSTANTLY. There is no "need" to have it "keep spinning" like a BOV.
The Vortech he has is to prevent EXCESS pressure WHILE boosting AND shifting. The point of preventing EXCESS is to "limit" boost since Superchargers don't have wastegates like a turbo does. That way you don't run more boost then you want. The point of preventing it while shifting is to increase the life of the superchargers bearings by preventing that backpressure.
But it does NOTHING for the spool. Ugh. Please before anyone bothers throwing their useless two cents in, read this.
Not saying your wrong .... however I don't leave boost...... EVER........ and I have NO compressure surges......... so yes a sequential has NOTHING to do with ricer....... if you get a PSSH blow that lets out ALL the air FAST so regardless of how u shift you have NO air in your charge pipes means that you take time to spool..... How come I don't drop lower then 5 pounds when underload...... even through the gears.... with just FAST shifts...... I NEVER leave boost....... I repeat.... I NEVER EVER leave boost with my turbo set up ......I think I have a video of my boost gauge..... it goes into vac when I shift but I hit INSTANTLY 5 pounds then it RAPIDLY climbs to 11 VERY FAST..... I'd say in about 700rpm ............ I had a FULL release bov.... it took FOREVER for my car to spool ........ well not forever..... but I wasn't in boost the entire way down the quarter.......now I am ...... and I did nothing other then set up a sequential bov PROPERLY to that it lets off enough air to prevent compressor surges........and still will hold a little bit of a charge........ trust I'm not getting any surges..... at all...... I am currently working VERy closely with Racetech Automotive.... he knows whats going on ...... he does 3.8 s/c swaps 3.8 turbos 2.2 turbos 2.4 turbos (sweetness) 15 pounds on stock bottom end in a 2.4 .......
HE KNOWS his @!#$ ...... and my car was running pretty damn good before it went into storage........
again Not saying your wrong .... but from my experience a sequential bov for TURBO is great..........
just my .02 cents.
Thanks for reading.
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
I am gonna go off and say that when you shift fastr you aren't giving the engine anytime to lose speed but if you granny shift then the engine speed drops quickly. Remember that the turbo is spooled by the exhaust. Fast engine speed = more exhaust. Thus the reason why racers shift fast as they try to maintain a high engine speed when boosted. Sequential BOV's only give in to ricers as when you hear that ppssstttt sound you tb is closed thus giving the air nowhere to go. The faster you shift the less air escapes as all excess air is in the atmosphere but the tb quickly opens once the gas pedal is pressed. But if you take forever to shift then you are givin the tb a longer time to be closed thus makin more air escape. But when you do this the engine speed is greatly reduced as the tb is closed equally less air, less gas, and less exhaust. All of that equal low turbo rpm's. I hope you get it as it is quite simple and turbo basics.
i got a easy solution... Get the GM supercharger
ahah but all in all i would say your better off just to tighten that screw on your bov right now making it so that it wont open as easy...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
well JOSH if you tighten the BOV screw too much it won't open at all and you'll get compressor surges..... at least thats what I noticed..... when I got everything dialed in I have No lag and am in CONSTANT boost for the length of the 1/4.........................
However if you go out and buy a Greddy Type-s the boost pressure holds the valve shut so there is NO chance of it NOT opening when you change gears.
Not lying ....... seriously I'll try and find that video of me going through 2 gears and hitting 5 psi instantly then climbing to 8..... I was set at 8 psi before.......
I really am NOT out of boost at all ............
when I want to be !!!
but thats when Tires become rather expensive!
like the time on the way to the track when a tire blew.... @!#$ I was pissed!
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
QBE (73H 800573D 0N3) wrote:Josh F wrote:i got a easy solution... Get the GM supercharger
ahah but all in all i would say your better off just to tighten that screw on your bov right now making it so that it wont open as easy...
how could he do that? It's not out yet for the ecotec
ahah yea i know i just like to bug him about it...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
