Ok now if anyone can help i would greatly appreciate any assistance.
I have tried resistors from 330 ohm all the way too 1k ohm
I tried a diode becuase someone said it might work.
None of this has made a difference.
I can manage my idle voltage from 1.1 V to 1.6V
I can manage my voltage while dragging down a gear from .4 to 1.3
I have thrown a low voltage map code on all the variations i have tried.
I am bridging the green wire and the grey wire in case your wondering.
Help or advice or knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
I have read all the posts on this issue and according to them this should
have solved it. No i guess i need another option or someone to tell me how
i might be doing it wrong (which i doubt). I'm at the end of my rope here.
Help
Help
Please someon Help
I am about to install the SAFC on my ECO.... This post is scary! I hope someone can shed some light on this!
Brad i dont think anyone knows
Ok newman I just came across this thread now and I'm going to help you as much as I can.
I have the SAFC-2 currently on my car and I will tell you that it works fine. The whole resistor thing and people worrying about the "low voltage code", well, that's only at idle and at first start up. People are worried about your timing getting retarded because of this code, well I will tell you this, when you start to drive for the 1st start up, it disappears. It happends to me just about every day.
Honestly, it's nothing to worry about. An SAFC is actually just a electronically controlled resistor itself. The "resistor trick" is trying to boost up the voltage initially so the code doesn't show up at idle but by doing this you're throwing off your SAFC because you'll be running richer and you would have to tune it down. Remember, the SAFC works by voltage, the higher you raise it, the higher the voltage and vice versa.
What you can try and do is turning your SAFC up at the 1000 RPM mark and see if that helps you...that would increase the voltage and hopefully try and solve the problem but might not work, either way you should be fine.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
By the way, the voltage issue was from the MAP sensor if you didn't know.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Yes i knew it was from the map sensor.
I also knew it didn't affect the car once you past
5 mph.
Its just that light is driving me mad. I'm afraid i'll
have a real problem one day and not realize it soon enough.
Except maybe by feel.
Thanks for your help and advice though like
i said input is great.
newman wrote:Yes i knew it was from the map sensor.
I also knew it didn't affect the car once you past
5 mph.
Its just that light is driving me mad. I'm afraid i'll
have a real problem one day and not realize it soon enough.
Except maybe by feel.
Thanks for your help and advice though like
i said input is great.
I doubt the computer will detect a problem at initial startup, maybe once you start driving but you shouldn't worry about it. Really, if you have any problems at startup, you'll more than likely know there is an issue before hand.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
its the fact that the check engine light is on. If we could fix it so that its off then when something else happens the light will be on and well notice it. Thats the main thing
Casper wrote:its the fact that the check engine light is on. If we could fix it so that its off then when something else happens the light will be on and well notice it. Thats the main thing
Well actually, I believe in my car, it's the TRAC OFF light that comes on and off, not the CHECK ENGINE light.
About what you're saying though, like we said before, it goes away after you start driving for a few seconds. If your light stays on minutes later, you know you have an issue especially if you see it go off everyday like clockwork. It's really not that much of a hassle...
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Me and caspers CEL's are on all the time never off
Im having the same issue i hooked my car up to the snap on modis. It is a problem at startup and idle. It says that at idle there is 7in/hg in th emanifold. this is throwing a code. Im sure out of the settings there has to be one that works im gonna call apexi tomorrow and see if there is a fix. or maybe a formula to find out the proper setting.
*2012 mazdaspeed3*
This p0107 code is retarded! When mine comes on, it stays on till I clear it, or if I dont drive the car for a few days it wont come on. It comes back on after I drive it alot in boost and then let it sit for a little while then restart the car.
Failure is not failure if you learn from it
Yeah i'm really tired of this code if you come up
with anything let me know but I think i'm going to have to
give up.
p.s. maybe i'll just electical tape the damn cluster
