hey ive searched and found people who are having this same fuel issue with their gm s/c or vortech s/c engines cutting out when at idle and at stops. im having this problem also, ive checked all wires around the injectors and t/b and sensors and i have spark and everything. im running 6psi on the stock gm pulley and a 40 shot of nitrous and my plugs are gapped at 40 i beleive cause it was misfiring when the nitrous would activate. when i startup the car when its cold it does it and when its warm it does it also, and when i go to stop signs/lights it trys to die when you give it gas (air fuel gauge goes to lean when you give it gas).
does anyone have a actual solution to this fuel problem? im running all gm s/c injectors, plugs ect.
you know, this problem is pretty odd.
i've seen ppl post this a few times already, but on my s/c setup, i have NEVER gotten any problems like this. i gapped my plugs at 45, and never had a CEL or have it stall on me. then again, i have an automatic, so its controlled just a little bit differently.
the lowest i've ever seen it go is 500 rpms and then jumps back up a little bit, but its under situations where its given or taken off of a quick load. but then again, my idle rpms is 600, so it hardly have ever noticed it.
i dont know what to tell you, i know there's a "newer" manual tranny reflash, maybe you wanna try that?
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I've only ever had mine stall once. It stalled as I was driving it out of the service bay, right after having it reprogrammed. That's to be expected though, as it learns it's new parameters.
Never had a problem since.
It may have something to do with the cams though. Just as drag cars have a rough idle and will easily stall if you let them, you may have the same issue but on a much lesser scale.
Same would hold true for anyone with a lightened flywheel.
my problem is as soon as im coming to a stop i press in the clutch and it goes super rich down to 10.0 and will stall out the car if i dont hit the gas, once the car is above 170 degrees it doesnt stall but will dip down really rich but this only seems to stall it when the car is cold
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
well, when the car is cold, it runs rich, but maybe when u let off the gas if its cold it goes back to "idle rich cuz cold" mode, maybe a little too fast. not really sure on how you could fix that though......
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
gapped plugs at 45?? damn i was talkin to the gm tech that relfashed my computer and he told me the recomended gap was around 35. i get an occasional cylinder 1 misfire code when i redline it.. an the only time it ever tries to stall is when i come up to a traffic light an engauge the clutch last second..
-marc
gettin blown @ 6psi daily..
i like how the "recommended" gap the tech told you was 35, when it clearly says 50 in the manual......
BUT the "recommended" gap the jbo has said was 35, but thats cuz ppl here are hacks and nobody is stock
so far ive ran at the track many times and even when it was hot, no cel's yet.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I'm at 0.050.
But I'm pretty much stock beyond the blower.
i gapped mine at about 38, nothing really has gone wrong yet *knock on wood*
but i am also having the prob of the stalling, i cant think of what it is.....when i put on my 56mm t/b it fixed it for the most part, but still does it occasionally.....i dunno
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
i heard turn the fuel preasure down some, im gonna try that i guess so what you guys suggest it be at when i turn it down, i dont wanna go too low. this problem is really bad for me, i mean im getting ready to do cams, pistons, rods and putting a built head on me engine and i cant have it stalling out and stuff, its just too frustrating. also what is this "updated reflash" i hear about, how i get ahold of it and does that fix this problem possibly?
im having the same stalling/sputtering problem.
when cold, it will start to chug hard at about 2,000 RPM and fall on its face. then recover quickly and it causes a very embarrasing jerk..
if thats not enough. when disengaging the clutch for the first time after startup (usually just going to nearest stop sign, so its first gear then brake) the RPMs wont even attempt to stop at idle. they go straight to 0 and car dies before im even stopped...
its rediculous..
ied like to hear more about this updated reflash too..
BeardLife /
Club Awesome Reject Blog
5spd guys, try to turn up your idle screw a little on the t/b.
also run some ac delco rapid fire #5 spark plugs. i think gap them around .030 ish.
i am not running the reflash but i dont have any idle issues. it dips down here and there coming to a stop, but never stalls.
i have the spec 9lb flywheel also.
good luck
il try those plugs asap.
i keep forgeting which ones i was supposed to get..
yeah my spec 8 lb flywheel dosent help matters much either.
BeardLife /
Club Awesome Reject Blog
Jake those rapidfire #5s are those the ones that come w/ the s/c kit???
Car is for Sale!Supercharger kit is for sale!
no. search and i think there is a part # floating around somewhere.
Im have the same problem.Im running the brown top injectors,and its stalls when coming to a stop.The rpm will dip and will stall out.Even with the stock injectors it would dip down,but it would never stall out.Im thinking of putting my stock injectors back in and try to tune it with my safc and get a cartech fmu.I have a wideband,so im gonna see how much boost the stock injectors can handle.
Peter
'06 Cobalt ss/sc W/G85 Package
Gm Stage II W/2.79" Pulley
K&N Drop In Filter
Custom Magnaflow Dual Exhaust
ZStreetCavSC(Whinin) wrote:i gapped mine at about 38, nothing really has gone wrong yet *knock on wood*
AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS??? I GET A FREAKIN MISFIRE!!!! WTF???? Knocking on wood doesnt work very well lol......
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
^^ That sucks man!!! Thats why I dont do the "knock on wood" thing anymore lol...
Anybody have the rapidfire #5 part numbers? I did a search but couldn't find a part number.......Also where you guys picking these up at??
Car is for Sale!Supercharger kit is for sale!
i am getting this also. Reflashed , safc, cartech fmu, afpr, 440s, and walbro. My wideband shows my car going really lean and then dies. Go figure, lean with 440s ? lol I have no idea. I usually drive my auto with two feet to keep the RPMs up.
01 Z24 Turbo
me2 i gotta like powerbrake the bitch to keep it from dying, haha
......
someone needs to fix this........ is it me or is jake the only one NOT running the reflash and he ISN't stalling ????
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
mine has a off idle stumble every once and a while , and its alot more cold blooded now that its cold outside
and its only stalled after start up , but has only done acouple times
Hmm...My stock 2001 2.4L had a stalling problem last winter. On cold days when I first started my car it would sometimes start and then die. Or it would start and I would let it run for a few minutes but when I go to leave it would stall out or almost die. So after getting frustrated I saw a bulletin on alldata and it was a post about my exact problem and I just need this certain reprogramming done to like reset I guess you could say my throttle body and positioning stuff. I dunno if that might have something to do with your guy's issue or not....
~Boost. Its what's for dinner!~
well Guys when it stalls out does excessive black smoke come out before it dies and you have a rough idle... ..... too much fuel and too little air..... I heard that a bigger tb will help with the stalling this leads me to believe that if you add more air via a LARGER tb .... this matches the amount of fuel from the larger injectors and makes the car run with a better A/F ratio......
and if the car is dying out with LOTS of black smoke.... get an AFPR and tune your base down a little..........
I haven't seen the symtoms of the stall out so I get a good Idea of what is REALLY happening.............
oh well........ I think it has DEFINITELY to do with the reflash and it NOT being able to back off the injector duty cycle enough.... I had this problem with my 2200 with the RSm reflash.... since there is no MECHANICAL way to lower base pressure we are relying on the computer to back off the pulse-rate..... if you MAKE the pulse rate weaker via a AFPR it should in theory fix the problem ....... if your too rich at idle causing stalling.....
Just my .02 cents... could be way off just trying to help.....
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
Hmm...In feb. It will be a year since I installed my blower...I've had it hesitate like twice (rolling down in 1st gear, then step on the gas) but I've never had it just crap out and die...
Idle is smooth and in general runs great. Plugs gapped at .050 per the manual...I get the occasional misfire when I'm driving the piss out of it, but that's maybe twice in 6 mos. Never had it misfire at autocross though, and there are spots in courses where I'm just riding the rev limiter too (short bursts anyway).
Although it does sound like it's bogging out too rich, especially with those guys who spew out black smoke when it's dying.
I got the reflash done late february of '05, so maybe I got the latest one, so it might be worth checking out. It might also be worth making sure your fuel pressure regulator is working properly, if it's sticking a little bit, that could be part of the problem of going too rich when your throttle snaps closed at idle. (or vice versa in the case of leaning out)
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Sleeper style, they don't see it coming that way.
