Hows it going everyone? Wow it has been a LONG time since i have posted but Im hoping you guys can come to my rescue. Before anyone starts getting all upset because I didn't run a search. Hear me out please. Unfortunently two reasons i cant search are that; #1Im far more busy than I wish on anyone and #2 my internet is probably the worst connection in the world. Don't ask.

Anyway I need to know what FMUs you guys are having the best luck with in a 2200 application and in what way are you integrating them. (I.E. are you eliminating the stock FPR and if so are you sticking with the stock fuel rail and again if so how are you integrating the fmu without the stock one in place? Unfortunently for those of us who modify 2200s you all probably already realize our stock rail............... well, sucks to say the least.

My options are;

A) Get a rail made and stick with a cartech
B) You guys let me in on your experiences and maybe save a few dollars

I need it on the road like yesterday, lol

By the way car runs beautiful with boost love it. But I need MORE!!!!!!!!!!

Not to mention Ive had ALL my fuel mods for like two years and they have successfully collected a shell of dust on them. As money burns holes in our pockets so do toys rotting in your garage that are waiting to be installed.

my biggest concern is base fuel pressure with 320cc injectors w/ stock FPR and FMU (cartech in specific). How is it reacting?

Thanks guys sorry so winded but I needed to make up for my lack of posting.



ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician

well it depends on how many psi you are running. I did ok with 6:1 vortec and stock injectors and fpr. You'll want to keep the stock fpr for your car to run when you are at zero boost because fmu only act on boost.

upgrade your injectors and fuel pump and you should be ok all the way to 10 psi.

Not necessarily all true. there are FMUs that can both raise with vac and boost and thats really the route i wanna go but im not sure how people are eliminating the stock FPR on that particular rail.

problem is i need to find the best of both worlds to be able to raise fuel pressure significantly under boost but yet lower considerably @ idle to compensate for the larger injectors.

Hahn kit gets away with it just using a cartech but they have made themselves an adapter that eliminates the stock FPR and allows you to just run the Cartech FMU for both normal driving conditions and then under boost.




ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician

The stock FPR is a valve. It increases pressure by restricting flow. Using an aftermarket adjustable regulator allows you to set base pressure as low as needed and doesn't compromise the integrity of the stock fuel system with any types of adapters. With the base pressure set lower than the base pressure of the FMU you wish to use the stock fpr will basically be "out of the picture."

However, I have welded a "nut" cut from a GF481 fuel filter to the "sleeve" cut from a stock FPR to make a fuel line connection where a regulator used to sit.

Here's the actual part installed.
Notice that I retained the bracket that keeps the regulator / fitting in the fuel rail. You'll need to do the same. This works well, allowing a wrench to be used to keep the fitting from turning when installing the fuel line. The line is 3/8 diameter line as used on the pressure side (I swapped inlet and outlet on that particular rail) so you'll either need to use 3/8 line to your fmu or find an equivalent fitting for 5/16" line. You might be able to use the outlet of an old 2.0/ 2.2 TBI from a junkyard throttle body instead of the fuel filter "nut."

If you have any doubts about your welding skills, have this done by a qualified welder. Don't mess around, especially with the potential for very high pressure fuel leaks onto hot engine parts.

hth
-->Slow

Well man your idea would work and as you have posted pics apparently is. Only problem is that you show a real fuel rail, lol. The 2200 rail is like a coke can test tube. Leaves no real room for welding or tapping.

seems that the only real way to do what i need is to just have a rail made. I like doing things right the first time and needs to look good as well as be reliable. More so when it comes to fuel. Thanks for your guys help. I just do not like doing back yard engineering where fuel and heat is a concern.

No short cuts





ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician

I did no welding, machining, or tapping to the fuel rail in the picture. I modified the regulator, which slides into the rail and is retained by a clamp. I know exactly what the 2200 rail looks like and there's no reason you can't do the same thing for your engine.

Quote:

I just do not like doing back yard engineering where fuel and heat is a concern.

That sounds reasonable. But why do you consider an FMU to be anything but "backyard engineering?" None of the OEM's use them in factory applications. Is it because they're used by lots of people who don't have the engineering resources to modify factory calibrations? Maybe it's because they're expensive? Or because they're shiny? All I know is you're not the only person who thinks that way. I guess I should have said "I sell these fittings for $50 each. Here's a picture of the prototype in use on my 2.0 Sunbird running 17 psi boost at 54 psi fuel pressure.

-->Slow

The stock 2200 fuel rail does not suck, it is just different. The fuel rail for the older 2.2ohv, that sucks.