So I got a question......
PLEASE ..Serious reply's only PLEASE....
I don't have time for
......
Thanks in advance.
So ever since I got my 3" exhaust done (2 weeks ago)...they relocated the primary o2 sensor closer to the turbo on the downpipe then it was previously.... it was down by the oil pan before....(too far away to get a proper reading)... so ever since I got it relocated.... my car's Narrowband a/f gauge will start to read super lean at idle, then the car will start to idle almost as if I had a vaccuum leak...... bogging and stuff..but it's not running lean it's running super rich.... I know this because I see the black smoke coming from the exhaust... I turn the car off.... turn it back on.... the a/f gauge reads exact stoich and the car runs PERFECTLY no black smoke, nothing........... any ideas ????
Sometimes It does it twice and then it will be okay for the rest of the day... yesterday it didn't happen... today it happened once....
Messed sensor.... (I think I need to redo the wiring too..... do it direct from the harness and get rid of the connectors and sh*t) maybe get a new vw golf stock o2 .... it's wideband....
my reflash turned off the secondary one.......
so I know it's not that .... and my a/f gauge is tapped into the primary o2 wires....
possibly convert my primary to a heated o2 so I go into closed loop faster during cold starts ......... all things I'm considering...
Thanks
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
Dude you need a Wideband, Narrowbands are nothing but pretty lights. Your playing a very dangerous guessing game, Granted your one post said you have a spare motor but its still not worth blowing the first motor trying to pretend like a narrowband means a thing.
I wouldnt assume the black smoke is it running rich or anything either.
208whp 239wtq
13.7 @ 102mph 2.19 60'
oh ya and the obd2 scanner says running rich at idle...... so I'm leading to believe it is telling me the truth... I've tuned on an LM1 ...... it has a good tune with the adjustable FMU I have .........
Thanks
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
its probably due to the fact that you connected your a/f gauge to your 1 wire o2 sensor.
I had the same problem, and have been feeling the effects ever since. It has seriously @!#$ up my cars readings.
well guys READ THE POST AGAIN !!!!
THIS ONLY STARTED TO HAPPEN WHEN WE RELOCATED THE o2 sensor....
I TOTALLY FOR GOT TO TELL YOU THIS TOO..... when I got my pacesetter header and relocated it the first time.... it did the same thing for like 2 months then mysteriously went away !!!
I'm not worried about it I just wanted some input....
Thanks !!
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
mysteriously went away? Mines slowly going away too, thank god
yup but that is what happened last time around before turbo when I did the pacesetter with a hiflow and catback.. thru mad codes and bank 1 sensor 1 etc..... it sucks when the car bogs when your driving in gear..........lags behind for a second then catches up.... its definitely the computer going WTF??? with the a/f ratios.... haha
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
your computer IS going nuts. OBD2 ecu's have a learning mode, at least from my understanding. and until it figures out what the hell is going on... it's just going to dump fuel which would explain your black smoke from running very rich. Honestly, you DO need a wideband to fix this.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
when you say wideband..... is this going to connect into the ecu and make the ecu understand... because from what my shop is helping me with.... they say that it has a graph........ a hi and a low...... so the wideband has a larger graph and my ecu can not understand the wider graph and doesn't know what the hi and low is .....
so I'm converting my primary to a heated 4 wire o2 sensor 2 wires for signal 2 wires for heat.... this will allow my car to get into closed loop faster during start ups....
Today I reset the ecu.... (disconnected the battery for 2 hours) no engine light (yet)..........
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
Lee wrote:when you say wideband..... is this going to connect into the ecu and make the ecu understand... because from what my shop is helping me with.... they say that it has a graph........ a hi and a low...... so the wideband has a larger graph and my ecu can not understand the wider graph and doesn't know what the hi and low is .....
so I'm converting my primary to a heated 4 wire o2 sensor 2 wires for signal 2 wires for heat.... this will allow my car to get into closed loop faster during start ups....
Today I reset the ecu.... (disconnected the battery for 2 hours) no engine light (yet)..........
a wideband like this:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
ok heres is how an obd II works.
Your computer will change A/F ratios faster than you can see or meter for that matter. Based on o2 readings once in closed loop that is. Now as for the ECU goes it does have a learning mode or in this case i should say a monitoring capability. This is called LTFT (long term fuel trim) which will either add or subtract fuel depending on the A/F readings it sees over a long period of time. Now as for immediate readings it is trying to compensate for it is controlled by STFT (short term fuel trim) which temporarily fixes immediate problems with A/F mixtures. These fuel trims are basically the computers way of fighting for its base programming of what is said to be a perfect A/F mixture 14.7:1
You say you were monitoring a scanner to determine what A/F you are running but you really need to understand what to be reading and how to interpret it. For a real easy way for anybody to understand these readings people go with an independent "Wideband O2"
In your case NO the wideband will have nothing to do with your stock ECU but will give you a good reference as to what you are getting on the fly with A/F. Your stock ECU wouldn't understand the voltages coming from the wideband even if you could tap it in to your ECU.
With the gauge you are using which is tapped into your stock O2 is good for nothing more than to monitor whether or not your O2 is indeed working. Bouncing back and forth between 0 and .9 volts >.45 is 14.7:1 (Lean and Rich). Other than that it is useless. Do NOT try to determine your A/F mixture off that gauge.
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
^^ Very intelligent and correct post. This further illustrates that a wideband o2 is absolutely necessary. Because that black smoke... you are running rich I know it. Have you looked at your plugs?
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
