This all started about two months ago. Car was leaning out under boost with an extra injector setup. Whatever, that sucked- but I could still drive the car to school and work. Then the problems started. The car randomly would run @!#$ty and shut down. When you gave it gas, it would run worse and just stall right out. Car usually won't start back up (except for one time). Now you're probably thinking a faulty pump or something. Wrong. I had a walbro 255lph in there. I checked my gas tank and there was a decent sized dent in it. Therefore, I thought that might be the problem of my stalling and leaning out. Maybe the pump was overheating because it couldnt pick up the fuel, so it was sucking in air instead. I replaced the tank. Stalled the next day. I replaced the fuel filter, and fpr. Stalled two days later (towed home). I replaced the fuel pump four days ago. Thought that was the problem for sure. Car ran great for three straight days. Car stalled out again last night on the highway. Now i'm onto ignition. If it's not fuel, has to be ignition, right? Okay. So I have a dis-2 in the car with tr6's. I took out the msd box and wired back the stock ignition. Thought maybe the msd had a loose ground or something of that nature. Care stalled out again the next day. I then replaced the coil packs, and ignition control model. Basiclly got a whole new idi cover and coils from the boneyard. So here I am, after replacing a s.hitload of parts, the car is still in the same boat as day one. I'm really to the point of putitng a for sale sign on it and calling it a day. I know there are problems you're gonna have when you boost a natually aspirated car, but this is just too much for me to handle. I'm frusturated beyond words. I also know a local gargage replaced my ignition switch, but maybe that is bad again. I have it narrowed down to two things. Either my computer is @!#$ting the bed whenever it so pleases or that ignition switch is scrweing up. I have heard that those are known to work and then not work again. The weird thing is that when my car shuts down, it will eventually start back up, but usually not for at least two or three hours, or sometimes the next day. Another thing, I can tell when its about to die because it starts shaking and almost feels like its running on 2 cylinders. It will let you rev it up sometimes but just sounds so @!#$ty like someone took out a plug or two. Other times it will just stall out if you give it any gas at all. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but that is obviously not the problem here. I pinch the feed line with my finger when the car is about to stall and it seems like there is barely any presure (I.E. I can squeeze the line more than I should be able to). So needless to say, any help at all is appreciated. I will keep this thread bumped with updates. Also, please don't post anything if you don't have the slightest clue what you are talking about. Thanks
z24 aint afraid of no ecotec
Im having the same problems as you with the car stalling out.I have a walbro intank pump too,but i dont think its the pump.But when my car stalls out,it starts right back up and runs fine.I was out at my car today looking for a bad ground wire or something.I noticed before when i put the a/c on at idle,it will stall within a couple of minutes.I put a volt meter on the fuel pump wire.It reads 12.5v at idle,when i put the lights on it drops to 11.7v,and when i put the a/c on it drops to 11.1 volts.Somethings putting a load on the system and is making the voltage drop.I checked the ground points and everything seems fine,i dont see any corrosion or anything.I have to check one more ground point and make sure its good.I have the service manual,so im trying to go through every wire.I have a feeling its the computer.Also my fuel gauge dont work.It wont read below half a tank.I bought a whole new fuel pump/sending unit assembly and it does the same thing.Its a good thing i didnt drop the tank to replace it.I just plugged it in to test it out and it does the same thing.I think im gonna take the pcm out tommorow and see if theres any corrosion either on the outside or the inside.Its really starting to piss me off.
Peter
'06 Cobalt ss/sc W/G85 Package
Gm Stage II W/2.79" Pulley
K&N Drop In Filter
Custom Magnaflow Dual Exhaust
Yea, I read your post about the fuel pump a few weeks ago. Not the problem I guess.
z24 aint afraid of no ecotec
Ok take all your ignition parts to Autozone before replacing anymore of it and have it all tested!!! Its free!!!! They have a wells tester that can test just about every single ignition component. Make sure they run the same test on every ignition part 10-12 times or until the ignition unit gets hot. Trust me on this one. Once you have ruled that out then move on but jesus quit throwing good money at a simple problem.
Honestly it sounds like a problem with the ICM or ignition switch problem(but i highly doubt this one).
I don't need no stinking SIG. Wait this is one.
DOH!
I had the same problems that you are having. It ended up have to do with the crank sensor. I had a small cut in the wire and moisture would get in it and cause those problems. Check your wiring harness, and check your sensor, they do wear out, they are just electro-magnets more or less.
TO me sounds like a issue I had with my turbo car. TPS sensor. Do you have a spare to put on and try?
No...But i've troubleshooted enough to be buying more replacement parts...
z24 aint afraid of no ecotec
98redcavz24 wrote:No...But i've troubleshooted enough to be buying more replacement parts...
I understand. Can you explain more of when it does it. Does it do it at no certain time? When you press the gas, just sitting idling?
It does it anytime. It seems like it goes into a cranky mode and will suddenly justy idle bumpy as hell and eventually stall out. Ifd I do press the gas when it is runmning bumpy, it will usually cause it to shut right down. Howveer, yesterday it let me rev it up while it was running crappy and it sounded horrible (like a machine gun). Yestrerday it fired right up and when I took it on the street and gave ita bout half thorttle, it started to buck violently. I went slow the rest of the way home and it made it. Righbt before I pulled into my driveway though, I gave it more gas and it bucked. Last week, though,l i wasn't as fortunate. It just stopped accelerating on the highway. I had the car floored and it just stuck at idle and eventually shut off and wouldnt start back up (only turn over)
z24 aint afraid of no ecotec
check your map sensor . maybe it is bad.
are u running a check vavle? if so try to run it with out one.
did u maybe mix up your A/C plug and crank sensor plug?
do u drive around with no inner fenderliner on the drivers side? if so u probably got the computer wet.
are you throwing any check engine lights?
test out the TPS sensor.
good luck
Well I just plugged in my 99 pcm without relocating hte knock sensor just because I didn't have the time, or terminals (anyone know what the part name for the terminals I need are?). But I plugged it in and started the car and it wan for maybe 1 second and just shut off. Kept doing that.. Anyway, i put the original computer back in and started it and let it run for maybe 5 mins. All this itme i had my digital camera ready so i can maybe get a short clip of it acting up. It started doing it and i caught a clip of it. I will post it in a sec.
z24 aint afraid of no ecotec
you gotta do the theft relearn
yea, if running the new computer, let the theft lock relearn.....
IDK what to tell you about the main problem...... I was hoping the pump or FPR would have solved it....
no check engine lights though? not even while its running like crap?
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
The Reaper had a bad TPS and never got a CEL either. I thought that was weird.
I just listened to the video again (last night when we talked I was really tired). It does remind me a lot of what the Reaper did. Wish I lived near you. We would swap my TPS.
What about the ignition control module. By the sounds of it I would guess something it heating up and than screwing up. Check your crank and cam sensors if you have them and also see if you can get your module checked out before you buy a new one.
<a href="http://www.j-body.org/members/purplhaze">My registry</a>
Scanned the codes today and this is what I got:
Insuffienct EGR Flow (which i knew)
o2 heater circuit sensor 2 (which i knew)
Fuel system too lean (this is new to me)
Camshaft position sensor circuit low output (problem?)
z24 aint afraid of no ecotec
reaplace the camshaft sensor, or inspect the wires/plug.
now the EGR code, do u have your EGR hooked up? or did u completely remove it?
that is the only code i have, and i have the EGR stuff removed/plug hanging there and i just clear the EGr code when i first start the car and it never comes back again till i shut it off/start it up.
good luck.
98redcavz24 wrote:Scanned the codes today and this is what I got:
Insuffienct EGR Flow (which i knew)
o2 heater circuit sensor 2 (which i knew)
Fuel system too lean (this is new to me)
Camshaft position sensor circuit low output (problem?)
Well seems you have found your problem. Camshaft sensor. I would check the waires as well.
Why do you have the O2 heater circuit one?
Jake wrote:reaplace the camshaft sensor, or inspect the wires/plug.
now the EGR code, do u have your EGR hooked up? or did u completely remove it?
that is the only code i have, and i have the EGR stuff removed/plug hanging there and i just clear the EGr code when i first start the car and it never comes back again till i shut it off/start it up.
good luck.
The egr is still hooked up, just wihtout a rivet on my manifold hence the code. I have a 99 pcm that I will be instaling shortly to get rid of this code..
To kelly jones, the reason for the o2 heater circuit is becasue I had my rear o2 zip-tied while I was running open downpipe for a few weeks and I think maybe i got some water on it or something and screwed it up..
z24 aint afraid of no ecotec
My brother had a random missfire code, and a cam position sensor code...... ran like crap. we replaced the cam sensor, and put in new spark plugs...... runs mint
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
I will be happy to add my 2 cent if desired.... What I think could be the problem is that the shop that put in your fuel pump didn't use the straw like zylaphone plastic line needed for cavaliers, you know, that sits in the cup of the tank. They just used a piece of fuel line instead. When the cup is compressed into the tank, the line compressed and kinked, cause its not that plastic straw extender piece, hence your lack of fuel pressure and why your car doesn't wanna stay running. I would say give that a try, you can get them from
APE. They are only $2.50, well worth the investment.
Now, I can prove my point if you were to drop the tank and take out the cup, not all the way, just decompress it, my guess is that it will run like a champ! But thats just my 2 cent.....
Scott
damn non-edit button havin forum! Not a zylaphone, and accordian! DUH!
Scott
