I have been boosted for about a month, 2500 miles and I already blew it up. I am so dumb. I was running rich so turned down my FPR. The reason I am so dumb, I should have checked my plugs befor I went to the track. I should have realized I was getting better gas mileage which obviously meant not enough fuel. The car still runs, but I detonated and spun the bearing. So far on this car I went through one tranny (60K on it) put a new one in with 18K, then blew the motor at 62K, broke a rod. Now spun the bearing on a 42K motor. I am embaressed I didnt watch my car more. This winter I am pulling the motor and rebuilding it. Rods, pistions, cams and hone and bore. Then balanced crank and p&P head. Then I am bumping the SC up and throwing the 2.5 " pulley and water injection, FMU SAFC 2, 320cc RC injectors. I want 13s, and I want the thing to hold up. Now I need to buy the parts, not sure on who to go with. Rods for sure, would pistons be a must?

Anyway wanted to share my story. I didnt even get to take a real run down the 1/4 with it, just the 1/8th and got a decent 2.2 60" with wheel hop.

Good luck and CHECK YOUR FUEL!



http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible

OUCH that bites the big one

Good luck on your build





................Which car will hit 400 whp first???................

sorry to hear about that man. at least it's coming back with more potential




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

id run injectors around the 360cc range with the smaller pulley

i actually plan to use something in that range with mine , my a/f is is the mid 13's most of the time


sorry to hear man

Just pull your oil pan and replace all of your rod bearings with Clevite 77 bearings. You can do this with the engine still in the car. Pull the pan off, pull off the balance shaft assembly, turn your crank so you can work on each individual rod at a time, pull off the bearing cap, replace the bearings, install the cap (be sure to use correct torque settings), repeat for all four rods, bolt on the balance shaft assembly, time it by putting the crank to TDC on Cyl. 1 and turn the crank 90 degrees, now turn the shafts so that the flat part on the end of the shafts are facing down (you can order the tool from gm to hold them in place), tighten the bolt on the sprocket to the specified torque (note this bolt is left hand thread, lefty tighty righty loosey), bolt the pan back on and you are done. I had to do this to mine at about 42,000. I was stupid and liked to redline it bouncing it off the rev limiter and bouncing it off the top speed limiter. anyways I have about 84,000 on it now and its been boosted for about 6,000 miles and i havnt had a problem with them yet (knock on wood).

wow!!! thats terrible to hear man Im really glad i have an arp bottom end in my car and my SAFC to monitor knock. I check my plugs like every other day However this weekend the wideband tuning starts finally. Im running the 370cc injectors in my car, f/p set at 30psi at idle and then taking out anywehre from 25-35% of the fuel out in the SAFC and the most ive seen thus far for knock was 5 but that was on a warm night, every other time im only seeing 1-2, i hope im safe



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DCStang67 wrote:Just pull your oil pan and replace all of your rod bearings with Clevite 77 bearings. You can do this with the engine still in the car. Pull the pan off, pull off the balance shaft assembly, turn your crank so you can work on each individual rod at a time, pull off the bearing cap, replace the bearings, install the cap (be sure to use correct torque settings), repeat for all four rods, bolt on the balance shaft assembly, time it by putting the crank to TDC on Cyl. 1 and turn the crank 90 degrees, now turn the shafts so that the flat part on the end of the shafts are facing down (you can order the tool from gm to hold them in place), tighten the bolt on the sprocket to the specified torque (note this bolt is left hand thread, lefty tighty righty loosey), bolt the pan back on and you are done. I had to do this to mine at about 42,000. I was stupid and liked to redline it bouncing it off the rev limiter and bouncing it off the top speed limiter. anyways I have about 84,000 on it now and its been boosted for about 6,000 miles and i havnt had a problem with them yet (knock on wood).

I dont think that that is such a good idea. There could be damange and scaring to the crank journals.




275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

Adler wrote:

DCStang67 wrote:Just pull your oil pan and replace all of your rod bearings with Clevite 77 bearings. You can do this with the engine still in the car. Pull the pan off, pull off the balance shaft assembly, turn your crank so you can work on each individual rod at a time, pull off the bearing cap, replace the bearings, install the cap (be sure to use correct torque settings), repeat for all four rods, bolt on the balance shaft assembly, time it by putting the crank to TDC on Cyl. 1 and turn the crank 90 degrees, now turn the shafts so that the flat part on the end of the shafts are facing down (you can order the tool from gm to hold them in place), tighten the bolt on the sprocket to the specified torque (note this bolt is left hand thread, lefty tighty righty loosey), bolt the pan back on and you are done. I had to do this to mine at about 42,000. I was stupid and liked to redline it bouncing it off the rev limiter and bouncing it off the top speed limiter. anyways I have about 84,000 on it now and its been boosted for about 6,000 miles and i havnt had a problem with them yet (knock on wood).

I dont think that that is such a good idea. There could be damange and scaring to the crank journals.

a guy here had a shop do that and after a few miles it came back , after i tore the motor down you could see where the piston was hitting the head , it cleaned the carbon from the top of the piston in the shape of the head

not sure if it was said but if your going to the 2.5" pulley you might want to go to 370cc injectors...




The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno

what were your fuel mods at the time.?

i myself am lucky. i first got the gm s/c(5psi) my first fuel mods were a 135k stock fuel pump, used H0 injectors and a accell FPR. MAN my plugs were white. i would have popped' my newer 12k miled 2k 2.4 liter. i am lucky.

Then got a walrbo pump, stock injectors/fpr, cartech FMU , and the the fuel pressure is now at 50psi at idle, but anyways, my spark plugs look perfect . knock on wood.

PLus too my water/meth injection i think helps out .



good luck

do you even need a fuel pressure regulator on the gm supercharger? doesn't the computer control all of that?

But yea i am with Jake. I got my alcohol kit, Walbro 325 ( i think) fuel pump from my dads GNX and soon 370cc injectors, so i should be safe with my 2.5" pulley...




The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno

My fuel mods were perfect, 320 CC Injectors, LT1 ADJ FPR set to 52PSI. I was running great at first. Checked my plugs after about 50 miles to get an accurate reading and they were perfect. Then after about 500 miles I was seeing poor gas mileage, well not bad but enough and then I let it go. Then at about 2200 miles my dad said, I should turn down the FP because you could see the black smoke from the exhaust, and smeel I was lean. I turned it down to 42ish at idle and was getting what I used to get MPG and better performance. Then I went long distance with it, about 70 miles to the track at 80 mph and then she blew.

Man I wish I never turned it down so much.



http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible

DCStang67 wrote:Just pull your oil pan and replace all of your rod bearings with Clevite 77 bearings. You can do this with the engine still in the car. Pull the pan off, pull off the balance shaft assembly, turn your crank so you can work on each individual rod at a time, pull off the bearing cap, replace the bearings, install the cap (be sure to use correct torque settings), repeat for all four rods, bolt on the balance shaft assembly, time it by putting the crank to TDC on Cyl. 1 and turn the crank 90 degrees, now turn the shafts so that the flat part on the end of the shafts are facing down (you can order the tool from gm to hold them in place), tighten the bolt on the sprocket to the specified torque (note this bolt is left hand thread, lefty tighty righty loosey), bolt the pan back on and you are done. I had to do this to mine at about 42,000. I was stupid and liked to redline it bouncing it off the rev limiter and bouncing it off the top speed limiter. anyways I have about 84,000 on it now and its been boosted for about 6,000 miles and i havnt had a problem with them yet (knock on wood).

Only recommended if you catch it right away.

I caught it right away, drove it home at 1400 rpms because I couldnt hear any knocking noise unless it was over 2K, even then it want much. I broke a rod befor, and this wasnt a rod, lol. So maybe this bearing replacement isnt such a bad idea. I really dont have the money right now, I want to buy SeaDoos. How much and where to buy the 77 cevettes?



http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible

DCStang67 wrote:

DCStang67 wrote:Just pull your oil pan and replace all of your rod bearings with Clevite 77 bearings. You can do this with the engine still in the car. Pull the pan off, pull off the balance shaft assembly, turn your crank so you can work on each individual rod at a time, pull off the bearing cap, replace the bearings, install the cap (be sure to use correct torque settings), repeat for all four rods, bolt on the balance shaft assembly, time it by putting the crank to TDC on Cyl. 1 and turn the crank 90 degrees, now turn the shafts so that the flat part on the end of the shafts are facing down (you can order the tool from gm to hold them in place), tighten the bolt on the sprocket to the specified torque (note this bolt is left hand thread, lefty tighty righty loosey), bolt the pan back on and you are done. I had to do this to mine at about 42,000. I was stupid and liked to redline it bouncing it off the rev limiter and bouncing it off the top speed limiter. anyways I have about 84,000 on it now and its been boosted for about 6,000 miles and i havnt had a problem with them yet (knock on wood).

Only recommended if you catch it right away.

I still wouldnt do it. How would you know if there wasnt any damange done to the crank since the head hasnt been pulled off? There was probably some damage done to his crank.




275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

There wouldnt be any damage to the crank if he cought it right away and completely destroyed the bearing. If anything there would be damage to the bearing end of the rod. If you dont catch it right away and keep driving it the bearing end would get stretched out and the only fix is to mill the bearing cap and rebore the hole. Plus, you should always check the crank for any scoring before putting new bearings. If everything looks good then its only a few hour job to replace the bearings, you'll know if its going to be fine after running it a few miles. If it is that was alot easier and cheaper than rebuilding the engine if you don't need to.

Josh F wrote:not sure if it was said but if your going to the 2.5" pulley you might want to go to 370cc injectors...

The 2.5" runs just fine with the 310cc injectors.

12:1 a/f ratio on my setup.



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Adler wrote:

DCStang67 wrote:

DCStang67 wrote:Just pull your oil pan and replace all of your rod bearings with Clevite 77 bearings. You can do this with the engine still in the car. Pull the pan off, pull off the balance shaft assembly, turn your crank so you can work on each individual rod at a time, pull off the bearing cap, replace the bearings, install the cap (be sure to use correct torque settings), repeat for all four rods, bolt on the balance shaft assembly, time it by putting the crank to TDC on Cyl. 1 and turn the crank 90 degrees, now turn the shafts so that the flat part on the end of the shafts are facing down (you can order the tool from gm to hold them in place), tighten the bolt on the sprocket to the specified torque (note this bolt is left hand thread, lefty tighty righty loosey), bolt the pan back on and you are done. I had to do this to mine at about 42,000. I was stupid and liked to redline it bouncing it off the rev limiter and bouncing it off the top speed limiter. anyways I have about 84,000 on it now and its been boosted for about 6,000 miles and i havnt had a problem with them yet (knock on wood).

Only recommended if you catch it right away.

I still wouldnt do it. How would you know if there wasnt any damange done to the crank since the head hasnt been pulled off? There was probably some damage done to his crank.

I agree. I would not take the chance. You never know howmmuch metal shavings made it in other places in the motor. I would rather be safe than sorry.

Quote:

I caught it right away, drove it home at 1400 rpms because I couldnt hear any knocking noise unless it was over 2K, even then it want much. I broke a rod befor, and this wasnt a rod, lol. So maybe this bearing replacement isnt such a bad idea. I really dont have the money right now, I want to buy SeaDoos. How much and where to buy the 77 cevettes?

I do not call that catching it right away. You might not be hearing knock, but that does not mean damage was not being done.
My soon to be ex-wife has a 96 grand am with a 2.4. It spun a rod bearing at 129k. We tore it down and rebuilt it. The crank only need to be polished, hot tanks the block, honed it, had the psiton, and rods check and re-sized, all new gaskets bearings, used stock cams, new oil pump, water pump, clutch. Put it back together and it has been good for another 50-60k now. Actually stronger than it was new. We speced all the bearing clearences and they were prefect. This coost us about $900-$1000. I did not know then I could have gotten a used 2000+ 2.4 with 30-40k on it for about $600. Wish we would have done that. you might want to consider that.

sounds like you had no way of adjusting fuel pressure(fmu) when your car see's boost.

anyways, good luck and keep us udpated.

DCStang67 - The car is off the road now because its only on for 6 months, and I figured since I had a month left I wasnt going to drive it so I just figured I would take the money back from insurance. Since the car is off the road I would like to try what you did. Can I get some specific directions? Maybe, does anyone have pics? I have a lift and I have already done one engine swap on my GFs LS Vert (2.4) so I know he motor pretty well. Why not try it, if it doesnt work the engine will be rebuilt sooner or later. I have the Cartech and the SAFC 2 and walbro 277lph pump so if it runs good with just the new bearings I will make sure the proper fuel is there.

Let me know specifics.

PS I am now rocking the 1993 VL Coupe. I am going to have it repainted, which color should I paint her?



http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible