You read the title correctly. I bought a new daily driver. I got a 1990 Sunbird GT convertible turbo. I've already picked up an HKS SSQV bov for it and am shopping for an intercooler. I have enough bends left from the race car to run all of the charge pipes. My concerns are with the turbo. I am picking up the car tomorrow. From what I've read, it has a garrett T2 turbocharger. This is pretty small. I have lots of turbos laying around and can build one a little more suitable for my needs easily, but what is everybody doing about the turbo manifold? I'm half tempted to just make a turbo header for it and try to pull a little more out of it.
What is the stock boost pressure limited to?
What are people running intercooled>
If you have any tips or tricks you know with the turbo birds, please let me know! I'd love to learn them. This is my first second gen. I don't plan on doing much to it but I will deffinately make it look better and try to hover around the 215 hp mark before November is over.
Thanks for your help guys.
Cardomain|
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^^^^yah... pictures of that T2 turbo make me cry..... I'm so used to playing around with the turbo I have for my race cav:
MMMMMMMMmmmmmm........ P-trim T4 = tastey
Cardomain|
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I think they can run easily high 13's from what ive heard and seen and a t3 would probably just free up the engine a lot ,check for any play with the timing chain get a better oil pump thats the only things i can think about other than a daewoo dohc conversion (yeah you can have a 2.0L dohc if you take a deawoo head you should have around 220 hp at 6 or 7 psi)
^ What???????daaewoo...........ewweeewwwwwww is it really true I thought it was a myth.
driving around my first boosted day with that car was great! I already welded an RFL BOV into the piping and made an intake for it. More to come. I doubt I would put an NA head on this car, let alone a deawoo's. This thing has to be reliable.
I am mostly inerested in what people are doing for manifolds with turbo swaps.
I will be making a booist controller tomorrow and hooking up a boost gauge.
The turbo had slight shaft play but it spools up nicely. You can really hear it with the intake. I can't wait til the front mount is on.
This car is awesome!
Cardomain|
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mayeb you can order an opel head its dohc and it comes form the 1992 vectra turbo iirc
If you got money best head you can get is a Cosworth head...Anycrap most people use the stock mani and just change the flange.(that is what I'm going to do got a t3 I'm going to use) The design of it isn't so great so if you can make a better designed one that would work probably be helpfull it is a bit cramped if you plan to keep the a/c and what not. If the fuel system is in good working order you can easily pull 13psi with a map bleed without to many problems.
BTW DO not let it overheat this motor loves to pop headgaskets!
95 Cobra
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^^^^^the head is off right now. The temp gauge didn't work correctly. I just put an aftermarket one in because it overheated today. Right now I am changing the head gasket, water pump, wires, cap/rotor, plugs, injector o-rings, thermostat, all coolant caps, idle air controller, some hoses and a few other things. I made a boost controller and am installing and aftermarket boost gauge and oil pressure gauge allong with the coolant temperature gauge.
I am going to try and hit 13 PSI daily with a headgasket shim.
Cardomain|
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M I N I O N wrote:^^^^^the head is off right now. The temp gauge didn't work correctly. I just put an aftermarket one in because it overheated today. Right now I am changing the head gasket, water pump, wires, cap/rotor, plugs, injector o-rings, thermostat, all coolant caps, idle air controller, some hoses and a few other things. I made a boost controller and am installing and aftermarket boost gauge and oil pressure gauge allong with the coolant temperature gauge.
I am going to try and hit 13 PSI daily with a headgasket shim.
13psi intercooled is a walk in the park.
Ned Southwick was pushing 22psi on a stock bottom end before he sold his car If I recall correctly now THAT is pushing it.
Good you are starting with alot of new stuff hopefully that will save you from some headaches later.
95 Cobra
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BTW doubt I need to mention it cus it sounds like you know your junk. But check to make sure no water/coolant mixed with the oil. I had a friend spin a bearing in a 2.0OHC cus of this. Something stupid people sometimes forget to check! Good luck with the new car, post some pics of your turbo setup when you get it going.
95 Cobra
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The oil itself was fine, just lost some. I deffinately had oil inside the coolant though. I am picking up a brand new head with a shim tomorrow now so I guess I will poush 13 daily and 20 with the boost controller.
The car should be back up in the next two days with a little more ignition work and thew fresh components. I also put phase 1 3rd gen z24 rims on it. They look good.
Cardomain|
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17 psi 1989 Turbo Sunbird, stock engine, 200k+ miles.
Timing is everything
-->Slow
^intercooled?
What else have you done besides for raising the boost?
I personally want to change the turbo and go to an external wastegate. That stock one urks me.
Cardomain|
Myspace
Quote:
intercooled?
Yes.
Quote:
What else have you done besides for raising the boost?
Tuned it. Timing and fuel are adjustable if you can burn your own chips. I recently switched to a 3 BAR calibration and MAP sensor.
I have a mitsu BOV, maybe that's where the magic is.
Quote:
btw, what is the stock boost pressure?
About 6-8 psi depending on the calibration.
-->Slow
^^^^^^I do not know how to burn my own chips. I'm sure I could find out how or have someone local do it. Are you using the stock turbo/injectors?
Want to make some money and copy your chips for me?
Which map are you using?
Cardomain|
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Stock turbo and injectors.
My map is a work in progress, not ready for prime time.
Look for Pontiac Jeff, he sells chips. You might find him on
Darkmuck's Site.
The 3 BAR sensor # is GM # 12223861
AC Delco # 213-1562
-->Slow
With a stock chip, stock turbo, a MAP bleed, boost controller, a GN intercooler, dual exhaust, a K&N cone and 14 lbs of boost I went 14.17 with a 2.04 60'.
I went to a Grand Prix turbo with 17 psi and went 13.61 at 98 with a 1.94 60'.
The work continues.....
Tony
Tony
1987 Sunbird GT turbo convert
Ported intake, Fiero 53 MM TB, 52 lb inj, ported and flowed head, tube header, Mitsu TD06, ARP rod
bolts/head studs, adj cam sprocket, 4" x 12" x 31" FMIC, Paxton AFPR, modified 125 trans/LSD
unit/3.42's, custom chip tuning, Alky Control Methanol injection
13.61 ET at 101.44 mph, 262 WHP/350WTQ
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP roadster, 2.0 turbo w/GMPP exh, CAI and turbo upgrade, 290 hp/325 ft lbs
1969 Olds 442 convert
400 Eng, 200-4R trans, 3.73 posi, power everything, OAI
bought ned's car..... raced ned's old car.... after cleaning up a few things....
15psi.... = 13.57 @ 105 on pump gas and low boost.....
do your self a favor.... put electric fans in that are darn near always on... these motors like to get warm....
This months projects: Completion and Installation of Homemade Turbo System, Brakes, Fiberglass sparetire enlcosure and amp rack.
I got everything together again and went out for a test drive. It seems that when I hit higher RPM at around 10lbs of boost or higher, the computer freaks out and cuts sparks (or fuel?
)..... It also throw a CEL for about ten seconds afterwards.
I first started to think the was an over-boost indication but I remember everyone talking about hitting much higher boost on stock computer. I am planning on running a zener diode to block off anything more than 4.7v from being signalled to the computer from the map and an AIC to pick up the rest of the load.
I've decided that the trannyn gets too hot and I am installing a tranny cooler tonight when I do the new exhaust.
My big question is pretty much the CEL. Does anybody get one in boost at high RPM? How do you check for the code with this computer? I was spoiled with my OBD2 2.3 motor and my scanner.
Any help is appriciated...... btw.. it's fast as hell!
And..... the intercooler will be here this week. The core is 7"x18"x3.5". I am holding off the install for a week or two after that because I also ordered a twin ceramic ball bearing HKS turbocharger for it as well. I am just going to cut the flange off and nickle rod weld on a T3 flange for it. I might also pick up a new aluminum radiator for the car tonight to install. I am running dexcool through the fresh new cooling system so it should be good with the new raditator. It is getting pushed forward and the A/C is getting removed this week.
Tonight I am also hooking up the wet 35 hp nitrous shot.
Daily drivers are awesome!
Cardomain|
Myspace
Sounds like what was going on with mine. If the light goes back out then it's probably a bad O2 sensor, the primary. They are cheap I think it was like 20 or 25 for a bosch one.
Jason
USACi =>146.9db
14.88 @ 90.73MPH =>GM Charger, Motor Mounts, Catback exhaust
speaking of cheap, how much do some of theses parts run for these cars. I can pick one up for $300 with a blown head gasket. it would just be another project car like the sunfire has turned into.
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^^^^not much at all.
I didn't get a chance to change the O2 sensor yet but I will do that soon. I have the new sensor already. I was planning on putting it in when I added the T3 flange.
My oil pressure started dropping badly tonight so I babied the car home. I never flushed the engine after all of that original coolant. There is no new oil in the coolant system. All of the cylinders checked out with GREAT compression readings.
150 - 135 - 140 - 145
Oil pressuer seemed to be leaking at the T fitting that is attatched to the stock and aftermarket sending units. After tightenning these back up I reved it out to watch the oil pressure climb and heard a knocking sound coming from the block. I drained the oil......... yummy..... it was deffinately mixed in with some coolant. I never flushed it. I've put maybe 50 miles on the car with this oil. I changed the oil and revved it out to see how much better things got but still heard the same sound. It sounds like pre-ignition. It usually clicks once and then stops as if the computer was taking out timing to compensate. This is what i am hoping for. I am putting some colder plugs on tomorrow and throwing back some timing. It didn't knock until after I threw on a new coil, 8.8mm wires and autolite platinum plugs.
I don't want to tear the top end apart again!
I am wondering if I have some rod knock. If I do, has anybody dropped the crank from the bottom of the car? I modified my timing housings and cover for easier access. If I need a new bottom end, I will be putting it on all new with the KS turbo.
Not the best of days.
Cardomain|
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Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
I tried to use a block sealer tonight which required the engine to run for 30 minutes with the sealer inside. I changed the oil before I started and then again every ten minuted. Just after the 3rd change I spun a bearing. The tapping mocked me the whole way home. You can hear everything loud and clear in a convertible.
I didn't want to have to build the engine up this soon but it looks like it will be holding 20 lbs of boost in a couple weeks. Oh well. I am selling a boat load of stuff on ebay to pay for it on top of what I have in my account.
My ebay listings
I am also selling an 03+ carbon hood locally.
If anyone has a vin M 2.0 motor laying around let me know!
Does anybody know where I could find a multi-layer steel headgasket?
Cardomain|
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