So you guys saw my nasty turbo manifold a couple weeks back. Well I got it back and put the car back together today.
Here's my setup: 96 pontiac grand am gt 2.4 / 5 speed
Modified exploited turbo manifold
RSM ported intake manifold
RSM 62mm throttle body
Garrett t3/t4 turbo 60 trim .63 a/r internal wastegate
Spearco intercooler
RC Engineering 320cc injectors
Aeromotive AFPR
Autometer boost, egt, oil pressure, fuel pressure gauges
AEM wideband (goes in tomorrow)
Greddy e-manage with injector, igntion harnesses and greddy sensor
TurboXS bov
TurboXS boost controller
2.5" downpipe
3" hi flow cat
3" mandrel catback
3" dynomax bullet muffler
2.5" chargepipes
SO, I have no idea what the internal wastegate is... it was adjusted to hold the flapper all the way open... which is why I was getting no boost before. So what I did is I adjusted it so it was about 1/4 open (beacuse I have no idea what psi this wastegate opens at) so now it pushes 5-7 psi. I took it out for a run (untuned) and it felt good, but it needs a tuning bad. Tomorrow I put wideband in and mess with settings in e-manage. No problems except a P0107 check engine light... I put the 330ohm resistor on, cleared code, ran again, same problem. So I guess tomorrow I try a different resistor.
Then the only other issue I have is it idles good sometimes, others it idles like ass and when Im stopped a light / stop sign I go to leave and it just almost dies and then takes off fine... I don't like that too much. I have the boost cut limiter clamped at 4.7 volts on the e-manage. Other issue, my blow off valve sucks... its not a nice psshhh... its psh psh psh unless im at 7 psi top of 2nd gear, then I can hear it... I want a louder one.
I want to be running 9-10 psi, so I guess tomorrow I'll adjust the wastegate actuator again to keep the flapper a little farther closed. The boost controller really wont be doing anything I guess... oh well. Anyways I'll post some pics tomorrow. So excited!!!
-Bob
If you have a boost controller, why don't you turn that up instead?
FU Tuning
{font=arial]The wastegate is supposed to be adjusted so the flapper is ALL THE WAY CLOSED... it should open when the diaphragm is pushed by the pressure of boost....
All you're really doing is causing a longer spoolup while having a lower boost setting...
if you really want a proper 5-7 psi get an adjustable 5 psi wastegate actuator, close the flapper all the way and preload the adjustable gate.
You'll like the response of the car once the flapper is closed - it's much much different.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
I'm just worried that when I close the flapper all the way its gonna boost 15 pounds or something... and I definetely dont want that. Thats why I didn't close it all the way because I don't know what psi it opens at. Should I just close it all the way and be careful to see what it opens at? I'll close the flapper, then turn the boost controller to the lowest setting.
You don't know what psi actuator you have on the flapper?
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Ok heres an update on the car.
Today I adjusted the wastegate actuator so it would hold the flapper closed all the way... I boost 8-9 psi now which is right where I want to be but of course, I am having issues tuning it. I have the e-manage in and I installed a 330 ohm resistor at the map sensor and I still get a P0107 map sensor low level input and its REALLY starting to piss me off.
I put my wideband in today and I'm fine in first gear but mid 2nd I start to lean out. I turned up the fuel pressure a little bit and that helped, but then the car would not idle AT ALL... way too rich at idle.
The scenario with the check engine light confuses the hell out of me. I have an actron obdII code reader that I use to clear the code. But the resistor IS in place and so I drive the car, run the code scanner and guess whats there? P0107!!!!!!! I then clear the code, test again, PASS. Turn the key off (without even running the engine after clearing the code) and its back already!! This makes absolutely no sense, and I can't fine tune anything with e-manage before I can get the car out of limpdick mode with this damn code. I tried a 330 ohm and a 270 ohm, both do the exact same thing. Kind of frustrating... oh and tonight my alternator went out too...
Anyways I'm glad the car is running, but this code needs to get the hell out of here so I can fine tune.. someone help me out.
Thanks
-Bob
