I was talking to a buddy about buildin my motor for boost. Does this sound about right
-buy a head from
lmp
- 10:1 pistons
- Rods
- Polish the crank
- take out the balance shafts
That was just what i was told to build the boost motor. What do you think?
What are you trying to do with the engine? For boosted application I would lower the compression a little . . . .
Hopefully in about 1 month or so I will have much more high end performance parts listed on my site.. along with fully built bottom ends as well . . ..
taking out the balance shafts would be a bad idea
polish the crank? Yea its important for something covered in oil to be bling bling
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
ummm stock Eco pisons at 10:1.... And people are already pushing stock Eco's way past the boost capabilitys of most other cars ive seen.... One guy is pushing 15psi and ran a 13.3 on stock internals.
A stock ECO IS a boost ECO. Hmmmm, i like how that sounds.
<img src="http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/831000-831999/831395_11_full.jpg">
actually rodimus on this one you need to STFU. polishing the crank is a technical term. i dont know the exact details on the process but from my understanding it basically removes a lot of the friction to crank has on the bearings and other parts. i know we use a lot of polished cranks when we build motors.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Proper term is balancing the crank, but nevertheless the crank is good till 600HP so its not even worth spending the money on, Replace one part which is the connecting rods and your good to 400HP assuming you keep the A/F right
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
micropolishing journals improves break-in, reduces friction.....
stfu????
wow.
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my new favorite quote, up from franklin roosevelt's mistake/modification quote:
"Dan thanks for the entertainment... but I think someone is going to own you.... "
--CarbonFire (i think he's getting a little ticked over this one............)
'03 eco coupe
'02 z24 wheels
buzzwerdz are conjecture, mathematical certainty defines mechanical results.
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Rodimus Prime,
I think they are talking about micropolishing the crank. Micropolishing the crank journals will reduce the friction between the rod and crank bearings...which means you have less of a chance of losing them.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
well i want to polish it so that i dont get so much friction and keep the oil off of it. NOT FOR BLING BLING! Also im not going to just do rods if im going to pull the motor out. I want to do piston rods crank head. any other ideas..... im thinking not to do the crank because it might cost to much for what im going to get out of it. anyone know how much that would cost?
Read the GM Performance book....
Above 250 HP
- Pistions (Wiseco 8.9:1) $400
- Eagle Rods $400
- Think stronger blots for the head (flexing)
- Adj. Cam Gears (GM PRICY!!!)
Think thats all you need up to about 400 HP... But i could be wrong..
Quote:
Hopefully in about 1 month or so I will have much more high end performance parts listed on my site.. along with fully built bottom ends as well . . ..
really? what do you have planned? im already looking for a spare engine to work on durning the summer and early winter, im hoping to have it ready to drop it a lil after xmas time..
talk to me on this karo... if not on here, then please shoot me an email.
big_worm187@hotmail.com
yea i know thats about all i need but to flow better i was thinking of a new ported head and cams. I am haveing a harder time with what to do with this..... Sell this turbo (T3/T4 Street & High Performance- precision external wastegate turbo, part number-SC-5027E, A/R .48 or .63, max hp 450) or a big 16g like hahns kit. I dont know if i should use the kit from hahn a the new motor, build a turbo kit with a 16g or keep the turbo i have now and use that for the build. what do you think?
so go with the 16g then, lol. Yea it looks like that is good but i was asking what one is better for my case.
the heads good, drop compression to about 9 to 1 make sure you go with forged pistons and rods. have the rods polihed too. get the grank champfered, cross drilled,
releef cut the rod and main journels, nitrated, knife edged, and make sure it spin balenced to around 10,000 rmps, make sure that the pistons, rings, wrist pins and rods all weight the same down to .000 grams. then just use arp studs for everything
you can and dont forget to get the head machined with a grove so you can seal the
head gasket with a ring and gasket set up. contact crower and make sure to get cams that are groung for boost. then just pick your turbo and you'll have 400hp or more with no prob.
i know some of this might sound like overkill but when your able to just keep turning up the boost till you cant find a bigger turbo no more you won't think its overkill anymore.
this is the stuff g.m. did while exparamenting with the ecotec and this is what they did
so it could hit 750hp.
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
how much does it cost to "spin balence"?
how do you fix the balence in weight with the pistons and rods like you said?
Still asking the same question, what turbo do you guys like more?
thanks!
the ecotec has like 14 head bolts already. im sure the stock bolts will hold just fine under boost
TURBO KIT...$4,000
RUNNING 20 PSI...ANOTHER $2,000
SMOKING THE TIRES ON A 3RD GEAR ROLL...PRICELESS
yes i think karo should tells us a bit more. i look at your website once or twice a week. would like to know what is coming up
acording to g.m. the stock head bolts are only good to about 400hp after that the boost just keeps blowing them. studing the block and o-ringing the head will make sure you NEVER lose a headgasket to boost. if your not gonna run more then about 20psi -
25psi from the turbo then you can get away with just studing it.
ok to spin balence the crank you need to find a machine shop thats serious about building race engines usually nascar or dirttrack type stuff. pistons and rods would also be up to them not to knock yor ability to build but just the equipment alone needed to do this is pretty pricey. like i said call around but be ready for sticker shock like you've never experenced before.
about ten years ago when i worked for jasper engines i had them do all that stuff to a pontiac big block that i had in my old firebird. if i were a regular customer and not an employee the build would have cost me over 10grand and that was 10years ago.
but what i got was amazing i could spin that thing like it was a rotory engine and would just keep makeing power! on pump gas it was dyno tested at the hotrod power tour
with 562 hp at the rear wheels and well over 650ft lbs of torque. that engine lased untill i sold the car about a year ago. unfortunatly the car was treed running from the cops
while leaving a street race the kid who bought the car also bought the farm. firebird + 130mph + tree = dead
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
Why not just spend the 1xx. xx on some ARP studs and get it over with while the whole engine is torn apart? Why cheap on an a part which will come back and bite you later on?
^^^ hey karo, details on what your gonna be having on your site. how much longer??
Yea what are you going to come out with on your site. i would REALLY LIKE TO KNOW!
thats kinda what i was getting at karo (not being rude) btw you never hit me back about the supercharger whats up?
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
