Last weekend I put the engine in the car and today I was pluging up connectors and low and behold I find out that my bypass valve is broken off the mount. Anybody got any ideas on how to repair this or will I need to buy a new one...
How does this happen?? I think one other person posted something about a damaged bypass valve or something at some point.
Did you drop it while it was off the car? Did the engine rest on it or something? The big "do not touch" sticker on it had me being very careful not to lay the blower on that side before installing it.
Wild Weasel wrote: Did you drop it while it was off the car? Did the engine rest on it or something? The big "do not touch" sticker on it had me being very careful not to lay the blower on that side before installing it.
Wait, wait, wait! lol
Where was that sticker located? I did not see that. lol
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I did see it, when I put it in the car it was fine. Then when I starting plugging everything in, I saw it hanging by the metal rod. I was like
. Anyways, I think I'm gonna JB Weld it back into it's spot now that it's in (which is gonna be a PITA). BTW WW, how does your engine rev. Does the charger hit the front of the engine bay. I have only 1.5 inches of clearance. Also, it's gonna be neat when we have to change the alt...
mine has never hit the front yet... even though there is only that 1.5inches of space.... even still i got the engine mounts now though.
Supercharged 2.4L
Yeah, I've got the mounts so I think there's nil chance of it hitting. In fact, even without the mounts I'd say there's nil chance of it hitting. GM did a good job in engineering the kit. They'd have never set it up in such a way that it could hit the rad support.
And yeah... it never occurred to me what a PITA it's going to be to change the alternator.
Really though, the only annoying part of taking the blower off is dealing with the damned manifold bolts and their tightass locations.
When you say you saw it hanging by the metal rod... was that as you were doing the install or did that happen sometime afterwards? I mean, was it likely damaged before or while you were installing it or did something happen to it afterwards?
Wild Weasel wrote:Yeah, I've got the mounts so I think there's nil chance of it hitting. In fact, even without the mounts I'd say there's nil chance of it hitting. GM did a good job in engineering the kit. They'd have never set it up in such a way that it could hit the rad support.
The only thing they forgot was to make the blower and the intake manifold separate units, and putting a damn INTERCOOLER in there!! At least they got it right for the Ecotec supercharger...bastids!
A removeable snout wouldn't be bad either, making the alternator swap a WHOLE lot easier.
Ah well, you take the bad with the good. Excuse me, I have a boost gauge calling my name, asking me to take it up past 7psi
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Ok. This info remembers me that I need to be careful when I manipulate my SC....
. It is in the way.
And about the clearance, everyone have 1.5in of clearance to the radiator support?
I ask because I am planing in make a thin phenolic spacer for my SC. I am still investiganting about that. My worst issue would be to know the thickness of the phenolic sheet to maintain using the stock belt with the stock pulley. Bigger belt is really longer in relation to the smaller ones, and also I do't have info about smaller belt tensioners.
Regards,
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ELIOT. Now.....boosted.
Well, I think that it broke after the install or during. The shaft that goes into the valve is not broken but looks bent, I think it was that way when it was on it aka not broken. Tomarrow I'm gonna JB Weld it back onto the mount and wrap it in F4 tape (Air Force guys know this stuff) and hope for the best. What could happen if it doesn't work right.
A.15 I am glad you solve your problem and sorry to hack your topic.
I post my previous comments because I need some advice (pics, dimensions, comments, etc....) about my, I don't know maybe, crazy ideas. The problem is that in my country doesn't exist many supercharged Cavys or Sunfires, maybe one and I haven't see it anymore. So as you see you are my only source of info about this topics.
Regards,
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ELIOT. Now.....boosted.
Well, I tryed to start the car today and it just turns over, no start. I checked my plugs, they are good as are the injectors. The backfires very little (like you can bearly hear it) and you turn it over. Also,I'm leaking coolant from the side of the head. Gotta change the gasket again. This is getting stupid, I'm almost to the point where I want to trade in the car to start over. I'm seariously getting pissed at this.
Any ideas?
As far as putting the spacer between the manifold and the block goes... I think the belt is going to end up being the least of your worries.
Moving the blower even an 8th of an inch will likely end up with none of the 4 brackets that hold it in place lining up with the holes anymore. I thought about this as well to reduce the heat soak but I don't think it's terribly feasible.
Why do you think that Wild Weasel? I think that a 1/4" or inclusive 1/8" can do a great job isolating the SC from the heat of the head, of course using the right spacer material. And If I can use the same belt, making new brackets or extending the original ones will not be a problem. Could be a great and a cheap solution for a performance minded SC setup, not mentioning hot climates, like mine.
According to my research many people with the Jackson Racing SC have sucess with Hondata Heatshiled. Maybe don't let the temps goes 50% down, but with at least 10% we extend the detonation threshold, making the ECU doesn't retard timing too much and producing more consistent power.
What do you think guys?
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ELIOT. Now.....boosted.
A.15.... is your computer reflashed already? If not, it will not start with the s/c map in place.....
Leaking coolant from the head gasket? and you JUST put the s/c on? boy you have problems...... lol
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Eliot: If you can make new brackets, then certainly there's room there to fit the isolator in place.
It's just that the brackets it comes with all fit so perfectly... and all of them bolt up laterally so you can't just slip in a washer or something.
Now that I think about it though, you might be able to widen some of the holes in the brackets to keep them fitting. Certainly the top and bottom ones... but I'm not so sure about the snout supports. I can't remember exactly how they attach.
Since you're moving the blower toward the front of the car, the belt shouldn't be an issue. If you were going in the opposite direction, the belt path might be cut off by the alternator pulley but moving forward should be fine and I don't think it would be enough of a difference to require a new belt.
SpeedRacerZ wrote:A.15.... is your computer reflashed already? If not, it will not start with the s/c map in place.....
Leaking coolant from the head gasket? and you JUST put the s/c on? boy you have problems...... lol
I found out that it was leaking the the coolant hose thing on the side of the head. There were 2 wires stuck in it. Pulled them out and reset the hose and all was good. Computer thing makes me happy. Tomarrow is the day.
Thanks man.
I understand you WW, but about the belt tensioner? what do you think could be the thickest spacer that I can use with the original belt?
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ELIOT. Now.....boosted.
I think you could get away with 2 mm or so.
How much space do you need to make it worth doing?
A few things, the car will run when you have the new Map in and the PCM untuned, just keep it out of boost as much as possible. Dont bother with a spacer, the weight of the chager will not do it wonders, just setup a water injection kit and spray it to cool it. that is bassically your only good reliable choice. You wanna truely get creative design an M62 manifold for the 2.4 and then you can have some real fun. I am debating it but my Z28 comes before my buddies Z24, sorry guys.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
Got the reflash. I found out what my problem is. The boots are not touching the spark plugs. We got some LS1 plugs and wired them up and the car tried to start but couldn't. Think that might be the gas, it's been sitting for 6 months. Now I'm going to try to fix the plugs problem. My cam towers are 1/4 taller than the stock ones
. I need to see if an HO coil housing is taller. Otherwise, I'm going to have to try something out to get it working. This confuses me very much.
What is the best way to drain a tank?
