think about it what would you need a higer flowing TB or intake mani if your boosted. just thinking about it thought it was wort the post.
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the intake flows enough if you have stock a larger TB helps out alot with boost in S/C's as it allows more are in to be compressed thus more HP
I don't know about that one Orange. The air WILL be forced inthere weather you like it or not, and given a Turbo is a big restriction to fresh air it gives what it gives.
You motor doesn't have to suck air in anymore, it can just ask the Turbo and it will give the air !!!pressurized!!!.
That is why I am thinking it doesn't matter for at least a Throtlle body, but I might be wrong.
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It would make things more efficient...the more air you got comin in and goin out, the better. U probably wont see that big of a difference with minor changes, but it would be beneficial either way. All depends on if you want to spend the $ for it or not.
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It can't compress the air if it can't GET the air.
Making it easier to get the air makes it easier to compress it and making anything easier for the engine to do frees up power for going faster.
The stock throttle body can only flow a certain amount of air efficiently.... what that amount is, i don't think many people really know. But if you're pushing enough air with a turbo, it could begin to cause a restriction and rob power. Blow through one of those straws with the flexible end while its straight.... feel how much air comes out. Now bend it, or kink it, whatever, and no matter how hard you blow, you're still getting less air through it than you would if you used the same pressure on a straight straw.
Plus, not only are we worried about sheer volume, but velocity and turbulence. If the insides of the intake manifold have burrs or casting imperfections (or even just the normal gritty tecture), they can cause turbulence which can interrupt flow and rob power. Believe me, on a turbo car, other airflow mods are not pointless, most times they are actually MORE beneficial on a turbo car than on a N/A car, because the flow of air from the turbo is more than the stock TB, intake mani, intake and exhaust ports, valves, exhaust mani were really meant to flow. Opening these up the right way, such as porting the intake mani and intake side of the head while leaving the finish slightly rough to promote atomization of fuel, and polishing the exhaust side to be as smooth as possible for maximum velocity and resistance to carbon buildup, can lead to HUGE gains on a turbo car. The effect is almost exponential, since your car is designed to flow a certain amount at 1 atmosphere of pressure, once you strap on a turbo and go over atmospheric pressure, the boost will begin to back up in the intake tract. The more efficiently the other parts flow, the more air makes it into the combustion chamber, and the more power with less need for increased boost.
For example, on my car i run 20 psi of boost daily driven. Its still only making about 200 hp, and thats probably some wishful thinking on my part. Meanwhile, honda vtec engines where the heads flow much better can make that kind of power on 7-8 psi. Of course there are variables there like turbo size and compression ratio, but you get the point i think.
The power level where this would begin to effect any of the J-body engines is debatable... I would try to investigate and see what CFM's a stock OHV, 2.4, and Eco head flows, but i simply don't have the time. The throttle body would probably be a bigger issue on an OHV then on a 2.4 or eco, but both of the latter will have their limits as well. Perhaps some of the J-body elite will step in with the info on this one.
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Some import tuner mag. was tuning a SRT-4, they replaced just the filter and got a couple HP on the dyno.
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on a 2.4 the TB is only 52mm thats very small and restrictive compared to say the eco's TB its one of the 2.4' s downfall stock, by getting a larger TB if your boosted on these engines allow for large increases in HP just ask the GM Charged guys with the 62mm TB
If you change to a the 62mm throttle body you allow for the blower to take in more air with less effort, bassically allowing a cooler charge. I know when I did my buddies charger with a 6.5 lbs pulley it was deff a nice gain. If you have a cold air intake cut it and use it, its worth it you have it anyways. Other than that, you could port the manifold out but you'd have to dismantle the blower to do it. Allow for more air you can achieve better blower efficiancy
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hmmm interesting i doubt it would be dramatic enough to warrant spending the money just to gain 1/100 of a second on the 1/4 otherwise we'd all be running alcohol and rollcages that would be like going through and porting your whole exhaust so that it is completely smooth (no metal burrs) so that there was completey no restriction doing the same to the head the same to the intake mani the same to the throttle body etc. etc. etc. think horepower to cost ratio but yeah after a certain point your tb would make a difference
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im noticing an interesting similarity in the discussion. 1 I cant spell, 2 people seem to be saying that the blower or turbo has to work harder to prodouce the boost due to the rescrictive TB but thinking about who cares if it has a hard time if it doesn't break it's still going to do the job. this might affect spool times a little but the fact of the matter is, is that you are still pushing a certain amount of pounds agasit the walls of the throttle bodie and the area in which it has to play though may a few mm bigger it is still highly pressureised. also another thing that i might point out (and this has the poteintial to be very wrong so dont quote me on this) when your boosted your are increasing the pressure of the air and not the speed in which it flows.
I figured I would take a hawack at my own question.
"
Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
Ben Brown wrote:Man im too lazy to even make my exhaust COMPLETELY leak free.
lazy or broke?
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Jcavi wrote:im noticing an interesting similarity in the discussion. 1 I cant spell, 2 people seem to be saying that the blower or turbo has to work harder to prodouce the boost due to the rescrictive TB but thinking about who cares if it has a hard time if it doesn't break it's still going to do the job. this might affect spool times a little but the fact of the matter is, is that you are still pushing a certain amount of pounds agasit the walls of the throttle bodie and the area in which it has to play though may a few mm bigger it is still highly pressureised. also another thing that i might point out (and this has the poteintial to be very wrong so dont quote me on this) when your boosted your are increasing the pressure of the air and not the speed in which it flows.
I figured I would take a hawack at my own question.
If the blower needs to work harder, then it needs more energy to do that work. That's basically lost power that could have been used to turn the wheels. It's not a matter of putting strain on the blower that could cause damage. The blower is perfectly capable of doing the work. It's just that if you make it easier, you're freeing up power.
As for the air being pressurized... air gets pressurized when you take a larger volume of air and then squish it into a smaller space.
In order to do that, you first have to get that larger volume of air. The less air you can draw in, the less pressure you're going to get. So in order to get a higher volume of air into the blower, you're going to need to increase the flow speed through the intake tubing.
A larger TB will show significant gain on a SC as it will let it take in more air to be compressed.
It will show some gain as it will free up a restriction if your charge piping is 2.5" at the TB... it'll open it up and let the air flow in smoothly, netting some gain.
The GM charger will go nuts when it gets a TB tho. More air to compress.
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Its not about pressure guys, boost isn't about PSI. PSI is a byproduct of what we are trying to do, which is shove more air into the engine. If you have a bigger throttle body or ported head, the turbo doesn't have to work as hard. A more efficient turbo means cooler, denser air, which translates to more power. There is more air in cold air than there is in hot air (if that makes sense).
You can compress 300 degree air to 10psi, and 150 degree air to 10psi, and you will make significantly more power with the latter.
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